Pre-Tuned ECU swap over a standard

[Rixsy]

Not to add fuel to the fire or anything but ... a person can decide how he spends his money on what he/she deems as important to themselves. Therefore, by showing that you're big boys in 'how much you spend on your car to get whatever power' is lame. You shouldn't criticise someone else for paying extra $$$ for something that you may have gotten cheaper cos I'm pretty sure some ppl would agree that when someone gets a new mod the next person will say i got it for cheaper.

If you want to talk drag times and all that, fine fair enough do up your car to get quick 1/4 mile times if that's your aim but remember, Honda's weren't really made for straight line races... Therefore ppl will also have conflicting ideas in what mods are 'bang for buck' cos they're going for different requirements of their car.

To add even more fuel - I've also heard that WA doesnt have many competent tuners either. Sure any joe can give it a go - but what makes someone 'professional' these days?

But yeh, stop fighting boys, it's pointless

[ginganggooly]

I'll refer you BACK to my post on PAGE ONE.. you obviously have some problems with english comprehension also:

I refer you to my previous posts yet again:

Once again you've failed to read and comprehend my posts.. the spoon ECU is my 2nd chipped ecu.. and the 1st one was FREE.. so i havnt wasted any money IMO.

Oh my, you're complaining about my comprehension?
You missed that little snippet at the beginning od my post which read:
"Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyas "

So rather than attacking my level of literacy, perhaps you should take your own advice and invest a little effort into more carefully reading the post you're venting your spleen over. In short, i wasn't talking to you.

Now, back on topic. As per my original comment, if you are going to use a pre-programmed map, you need to make damn sure that you've kept almost every accessory, bolt on and internal as per the test-mule. Otherwise the chip is going to give substandard results.

About two years ago, I was running around with a JDM ITR 4-1 header and a few other miscellaneous bits and pieces. After a few hours tuning I ended up with 115kw ATW, strong mid-range, excellent transient throttle response and great fuel economy, basically, all of the pro's and none of the con's. I sold the JDM header and went temporarily back to AUDM ITR header... I immediately felt a monumental loss in power and driveability, not to mention a large increase in fuel consumption. Out of interest, I went back to the (same) dyno spun the car up. 91kw ATW was the result (this is actually less power than the stock ECU). Thats a legitimate loss of 24kw at the wheels by changing one part of the motor to something outside of what the map was written for. Dave re-tuned the car on the AUDM header and we got it back to around 105kw.

Now liken the above situation to a tuned J's/Spoon/Jun ECU optimised for whatever they tuned the car on, and any gimp can see where this is headed.

[VT3C]

...if you are going to use a pre-programmed map, you need to make damn sure that you've kept almost every accessory, bolt on and internal as per the test-mule. Otherwise the chip is going to give substandard results.

aggreed. that's why I have used all spoon parts where possible.. my main concern is that if the ECU is or isnt programmed for use with Spoon cams.. I cant find out any info on this anywhere.

My header is almost identical to the spoon 4-2-1 as per recommended for B16A (over the 4-1 design).. and over time i will get all other relative spoon parts. so I AM making an attempt to have my engine set-up as close as possible to that of the Spoon EG6 that I assume these maps were designed for.

once i install the cams etc. I will have the car Dyno'd to check AFR's and if they're dangerously out of safe/practical AFR range I may need to look at tunable ECU alternatives. Obviously I am not concerned with outright all-out power or i'd not have chosen the Spoon cams etc. for the same price or LESS i could have sourced TODA, JUN, BC etc. My car's direction of purpose will be for use on track (circuit) and motorkhanas, time-trials and hillclimb events.. so outright (max) power is not particularally relevant as I am interested in MORE than JUST 1/4 mile racing. The $$$$ i spent on chassis and suspension (alone) could have bought me a turbo kit and some slicks that would wipe any quater mile time of Locote's off the board, but my goals are relevant to the track only. I consider the 1/4 mile to be more of a yardstick measurement for modification more than an egocontenst LOL.

dont get me wrong i am well aware of the limitations of a chipped ECU but another of the features i DO want to retain - regardless of piggyback, chipped or stand alone - was the ability to retain FULL On board Diagnostics functionality. Excuse my ignorance but I am not sure about Hondata's OBD options.

[fatboyz39]

This thread is funny. hondata FTW.

[barefootbonzai]

i love it. keep it going boys. Part i love best is when ever someone has a slow car they always say it's because it's for circuit.

and HOndata FTW lmao.

[ginganggooly]

ahbut i've got

1. a slipping clutch
2. no traction
3. bald tyres
4. fark'd synchros
5. my spare and system and 100kg of shit in the boot
6. too much heatsoak
7. <insert excuse here>

Vtec is the shizznit

[VT3C]

Part i love best is when ever someone has a slow car they always say it's because it's for circuit.

slow ? lets see what times you can pull with a stock B16a ?

My car is not a drag-car.. and Locote ONLY has eyes fro drags.. so what ?

i Love these threads casue they get the tools out of the woodwork

[kyle]

Well this entertained me for a good 15mins. Im actually scared to go back to my local forum and moderate now.



I guess the only conclusion anyone can make form any of this is that.....

HONDATA FTWYO!

[Civic Type R]

OMG lol what a funny read this thread has become. Lets keep the personal attacks to PMs can we

How many of you over the past 6 pages have actually had real experience with a Fully programmed stand alone ECU ??? Too much talk gents!

Back on topic..

To answer the first post made in this thread, I ran a Mugen N1 ECU on my B18cR engine and it ran well. The only issues were that it disabled the Aircon, needed more fuel pressure in VTEC and you have to get a new fuel pump.

Now the gains at top end were very negligable - about a 5hp gain but thru the midrange there were gains around 20HP.

I tested this ECU vs the stock OBD2 ECU on the track and it responded beautifully. VTEC kicked in at 4100rpm and it continued to pull hard around the track with LOADS of midrange. The standard ECU was difficult to use on the circuit because when VTEC kicked in it would send the wheels spinning when you didnt want it too. Yes I also had LSD.

So overall, whats more imprtant Aircon or a gutsy car with lots more pull thru the rev range.

Here is a dyno graph to look at

Redline = B16A2 OBD2 ECU
Blue Line = Mugen N1 Race Only ECU
Green Line = JDM ITR ECU




Keep it real

[fatboyz39]

slow ? lets see what times you can pull with a stock B16a ?

My car is not a drag-car.. and Locote ONLY has eyes fro drags.. so what ?

Barefoot done a 14.3 with his stock b16a. Respect there.

I love that excuse, my car is built for circuit racing. Thats one of the top excuses on my list.

[fatboyz39]

Air to fuel everywhere!! LOL. With these chip you don't know what mods its tune for. As you have to factor in age of motor and etc.

[kyle]

Air to fuel is everywhere, but not only with the Mugen ECU, the stock ECU's appear to do it to. I think its something to do with VTEC change over, the AF meter doesn't deal with sudden changes in fuel maps, so it goes WOW!!!! LEAN LEAN LEAN, wait no!!!!....... just a bit.... ***! ok back up.... there we go ahhhhhhh.