posting or resleeve

[MRJDM]

The posting process involves machining and tapping holes in the thrust sides of the block and torquing in threaded aluminum “posts” that physically “connect” the outer part of the cylinder with the outside (peripheral) walls of the block. With these “posts” installed, if the cylinder walls are going to move, they have to move the outside walls of the block too, so they add a tremendous amount of strength, making the block capable of withstanding a lot of abuse. This modification also has no ill effect on cylinder cooling, which is something I’m big on these days.

i got this from http://www.theoldone.com/articles/badtothebone/ . does anyone know the advantages and disadvantages of posting

[pornstar]

yer, the guy who does it gets money of ya

[SP0017]

resleeving is gonna cost you a bomb. whether you use a b20 block or b18 block.

I don't know how much posting will cost and i'm not sure if you can both use a block guard and post the cylinder walls too

[SP0017]

Advantages are as posted in the article.

Theoretically i would think that because the posts and the cylinder walls are made of different materials, they might expand at a different rate when its hot which might create pressure on the walls too. Just a guess

[pornstar]

yet if u think about it, where does posting differ to block gaurding besides the name and what the seller says?

[SP0017]

thats why i said i'm not sure if you can do both posting and using a block guard cos they both claim to do the same thing, provide support for the higher part of the cylinder walls cos thats where there is most pressure.

[tinkerbell]

MRJDM - how much boost will you be running?

this will dictate the amount of engine strenghtening you require.

[MRJDM]

im going to be building a high comp engine

[tinkerbell]

in that case i woudl consider sleeves if you are using a B20B block...

i dont know anyoen in Aussie with 'posting' experience...

(not many sleevers for that matter either!)

[Weq]

DIY posting! www.homemadeturbo.com has a good guide
sleeving, id look a buying somethign built int he US from a US forum. its always cheaper buyin something someone else has spent US dollars on.

[Breeze]

Posting goes way back to the old hotrod days. I have posted early honda motors that require stiffening to make big power with floating sleeves. Posting is much better than block guard as you don't distort any of the engine components when fitting or apply any pressure on any surfaces. You only torque up very loosely. Block guard also creates hot spots which are not caused by posting. This is exaggerated because block guards sit at the top of the bore closest to where the combustion process occurs and where the cylinder needs high level of cooling. People with block guards often find they have to run less advance because of this in a street car to prevent detonation. Drag cars will usually run from cold.

You only need to post on the thrust side of the block and it is cheap to do and even the average mechanic should be able to do it as long as you have some threaded alu rod, correct size drill bit, epoxy and the right thread tap.

My experience with early honda blocks has shown they are reliable with a 2mm overbore and 20psi boost with static comp of 6.8:1. My personal opinion is that sleeve splitting in later blocks is more the result of poor tuning than poor manufacture.

Good luck

[pornstar]

sounds good breeze except static comp of 6.8 would be meh to drive on the street. agree about sleevse cracking, more often than not tho, that cracking isnt just tune, its also the fact of cylinder pressure, and sleeves walking under boost...

for high NA MRJDM, u need displacement and rpm to get real power, if thats the case might aswell sleeve it man. Adrian makes a mean sleeved block.

Weq, for an engine, stay in australia man, overseas ur going to get into trouble especially with high shipping costs.