budget upgrade for civic

**thc86** · 10-09-2007 11:49 PM

hey guys,
i am looking at making my car go a bit faster or maybe drive smoother a bit would be great if i dun get flamed

dun really want to spend too much for now maybe around the 200-1k range..

i just bought a EG d16y1 engine 1994 sedan with stock parts only

cheers

looking at upgrading my speakers also.. maybe getting it for front and back so 4 stero speakers whats are the better ones? i like to turn up my speakers on occasion (for myself to hear whenever i hear the songs i like)also looking at the 200-8k range. the current speakers i only hear from the back and sounds monotonous. lol

cheers

**95civic** · 11-09-2007 12:01 AM

I would personally say get an exhaust and possibly rims OR spend it all on upgrading your suspension ( do it properly the 1st time )

All else fails, search, heaps of people ask these questions.

**Jamezy** · 11-09-2007 12:23 AM

get a custom after market catback exhaust which is around 300 to 400 depends where u get it from and a simota intake system which will be around 200 to 350 depends if u want cold air intake or short ram intake but i say get the cold air much more beta .. these mods will be easily under 1k with easy power gains

if u get a bit more money you can get headers as well .. but IMO get those 2 mods 1st ..

**thc86** · 11-09-2007 12:25 AM

been searching the forums but i dun understand much..

for the speakers can anyone describe what this means? i got this off another thread :P

http://www.ryda.com.au/Clarion-SCM40...m-p/scm400.htm
http://www.alpine.com.au/products/pr...sp?modelID=314

**Vinnie** · 11-09-2007 12:56 AM

Originally Posted by thc86

been searching the forums but i dun understand much..

for the speakers can anyone describe what this means? i got this off another thread :P

http://www.ryda.com.au/Clarion-SCM40...m-p/scm400.htm
http://www.alpine.com.au/products/pr...sp?modelID=314

split (component) speakers are where the tweeter (small speaker dedicated to higher frequencies) is seperate from the mid driver (the larger speaker, usually 6.5 inch) as opposed to coaxials where they are together. they are more expensive but the main benefit is the ability to position the tweeter away from the mid in order to help sound quality. if ur running on a pretty tight budget i understand jaycar have some decent products in that price range as well.

**Chuckz** · 11-09-2007 10:18 AM

suspensions first for handling, next would be rims, strut bars and body kit

**SiReal** · 11-09-2007 10:21 AM

theres no point in having good suspension if u have sh1t tyres. u'll just break traction and be all over the road sooner than you think.

speakers, i'm running clarion slimline 6" fronts, alpine rears, 1RCA alpine headunit, mtx sub, alpine amp. All second hand off mates or eBay or brand new on special. Cost me under $450 total for my system. And I think, it sounds blardy awesome. no need to spend big bucks unless ur an audiophile.

**dsp26** · 12-09-2007 10:58 AM

Originally Posted by SiReal

theres no point in having good suspension if u have sh1t tyres. u'll just break traction and be all over the road sooner than you think.

agree 200%!!

dampenining and spring rates always stiffen up over standard/oem therefore on hard brake the suspension system can't compress and absorb as much inertial force therefore causing tyres to lockup sooner... this is evident on those $20 ebay coilover sleeves (which i had).. the ones i bought were rated at 16Kg/cm^2

and on top off that if you get coilovers, most people do it to dump the car and don't correct the camber... already there you've lost half your tyres in traction area.

not many people take this into consideration....

**cristian** · 12-09-2007 11:51 AM

Originally Posted by dsp26

agree 200%!!

dampenining and spring rates always stiffen up over standard/oem therefore on hard brake the suspension system can't compress and absorb as much inertial force therefore causing tyres to lockup sooner... this is evident on those $20 ebay coilover sleeves (which i had).. the ones i bought were rated at 16Kg/cm^2

and on top off that if you get coilovers, most people do it to dump the car and don't correct the camber... already there you've lost half your tyres in traction area.

not many people take this into consideration....

i was always wondering why u got urs so damn cheap man...

**dsp26** · 12-09-2007 11:53 AM

Originally Posted by cristian

i was always wondering why u got urs so damn cheap man...

no brother they weren't cheap.... shipping was in excess of US$100....

handled good though combined with my KYBs yeah? just too stiff for parramatta road lol.

**SeverAMV** · 12-09-2007 03:34 PM

just because your tyres shoulder blocks have less contact with the road doesnt mean that you have less grip. if you keep the camber within 1-3 degrees, you can increase the contact patch and use the main grippy patch of the tyres for your cornering, which can help maximise grip.
but yeah, not a good idea to dump it too far. if you dump it far enough to camber out your wheels, it does more than give you camber, it destroys your car's suspension geometry. the main idea behind lowering a car is to lower the car's centre of gravity. if you lower it too far, instead of being at the ideal point at the centre of your undercarriage, it drops down to below your car, which is as bad as having your car raised a foot off the ground.
there's apparently a lot of complex mathematics involved, but unless you plan on forking out money for expensive camber kits, you can just keep the drop to a minimal. and i think with the skunk items, they come with a set of allen keys for adjusting the ride height, so you can play around with it yourself to find the ideal ride height. with the remainder of the 1k, you could get your car corner balanced if you really want to (may give you 50:50 front: rear left:right distribution, but destroys aerodynamics).