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  1. #1
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    Aug 2007
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    180sx

    EK1 Engine Conversion

    Hey im planning my engine conversion very soon

    Still havent decided on what to get. It's still depending on my budget, i'm after the B18C (VTi-R), but they all seem to be $4k + and my second option is the B16A, which is roughly $3k + (both front cuts)

    I saw long blocks before, but never really considered them.

    Would it be a good idea to look into? Because from AKMotorworks i can get a B18C for $1650, which would require a few more things for me to get. Gearbox, intake manifold + TB, exhaust manifold, B18C wiring loom ( Do i just need the wiring loom , or loom an adapter ) ECU, brake master cylinder ( is that right ) and the break conversion.

    If i do go down that route, i plan on changing to OBD1 for Hondata, should i do that at the same time as im doing this, or do it later down the track when i plan on doing mods + getting it tuned.

    Basically, would it be cheaper to go with long block, or just the front cut. Time isn't an issue, i don't need this thing running anytime soon. I have plenty of time to make errors, or wait for parts that i might need etc.

    What do you guys think ?

  2. #2
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    CT9A
    Get a halfcut, will save alot of hassle and time trying to find parts. It'll end up costing more if you go and buy a motor seperate and try to get all the things needed for a conversion.

    As for halfcut try to find a EK4 b16a, will save alot of headache. As for changing to obd1 for hondata a conversion harness is all is needed.

    If your keen on a Ek4 halfcut i got one here. Pm me.

  3. #3
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    yeh i agree, its not as easy as u think trying to find individual parts, alot of time and effort required might end up costing u more. be patient, iv seen
    b18c2(vti-r) conversions for around 4-5K

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonnowis View Post
    yeh i agree, its not as easy as u think trying to find individual parts, alot of time and effort required might end up costing u more. be patient, iv seen
    b18c2(vti-r) conversions for around 4-5K
    I'll be doing the conversion myself, so while im working out other things, mounting the motor, removing old parts etc, i can wait to find parts or for them to arrive.

    The thing is i thought there are better parts around, so if i get a half cut, ill get all stock parts, but if i decided to get long block, i cud get a larger TB + skunk2 IM, if i got half cut, then upgraded later, its just like paying for the same part twice.

    And can someone please tell me prices on VTi-R & ITR gearboxes? Because if i get longblock, i could also get a ITR gearbox, instead of deciding to change later and having to pay even more again.

    As for the B18 swap compared to B16, i dont mind spending abit extra time trying to work through the headaches, im in no rush with this project, i'd rather spend the extra time and get what i want.

    After engine conversion, i plan to do basic engine mods, and thought maybe if i spend a few hundered extra whilst doing engine conversion, it would save money in the long run. I.e. (Just making up prices) I get stock TB + IM, and it cost $250, then later i upgrade to larger TB + Skunk2 IM, and it cost me $450. That total $700, where as i could spend the $200 extra now, and save $250 later.


    Still think i should just go for the B16, or spend the time, and spend the few hundred extra now? Or will it still cost ALOT more then an engine conversion?

    And will changing to a B18 require a loom harness or something, from D16 to B18?
    Last edited by 1996ek1; 30-09-2007 at 12:46 AM. Reason: Forgot a question

  5. #5
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    [quote=1996ek1;1368154]
    The thing is i thought there are better parts around, so if i get a half cut, ill get all stock parts, but if i decided to get long block, i cud get a larger TB + skunk2 IM, if i got half cut, then upgraded later, its just like paying for the same part twice.

    And can someone please tell me prices on VTi-R & ITR gearboxes? Because if i get longblock, i could also get a ITR gearbox, instead of deciding to change later and having to pay even more again.

    As for the B18 swap compared to B16, i dont mind spending abit extra time trying to work through the headaches, im in no rush with this project, i'd rather spend the extra time and get what i want.

    After engine conversion, i plan to do basic engine mods, and thought maybe if i spend a few hundered extra whilst doing engine conversion, it would save money in the long run. I.e. (Just making up prices) I get stock TB + IM, and it cost $250, then later i upgrade to larger TB + Skunk2 IM, and it cost me $450. That total $700, where as i could spend the $200 extra now, and save $250 later.

    quote]

    I best advice to you is to get a half-cut. Dont get a long block and buy the bits individually, you'll get a big headache and since your new to conversion you wouldnt know wat is require to complete a conversion. And yes, it would cost you more money and time if you buy individually.

    In terms of gearboxs, the ITR box has LSD and a 4.7 final drive. Gearing is much better than the vti-r. ITr boxs are hard to find and pricey if you could find one.

    If you want to do bolt-ons do i/h/e then a computer then tune. Research on the what works and what doesnt.

    I reckon you think too much, trying to save money and stuff. Take ppls advice and get a half-cut. Unless you have heaps of spare parts then yes get a long block and build your own conversion.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benson View Post

    In terms of gearboxs, the ITR box has LSD and a 4.7 final drive. Gearing is much better than the vti-r.
    Thats why i wanted the ITR box

    If you want to do bolt-ons do i/h/e then a computer then tune. Research on the what works and what doesnt.
    I plan on turboing in the future, and i just thought if im here changing ECU and looms, should i change to OBD1 to help for in the future.

    I reckon you think too much, trying to save money and stuff. Take ppls advice and get a half-cut. Unless you have heaps of spare parts then yes get a long block and build your own conversion.[/QUOTE]

    I have someone very experienced helping me with the build, but i might just take everyones advice, and go for halfcut....

  7. #7
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    when it comes to the EK its probably best to get a ek4 half cut
    imagine how easy the conversion would be from a ek to a ek chasis...

    plus ive read numerous times that the EK wiring loom is only for ek as its a one piece where as the eg and dcs are different incase u were planning on getting a dc2 half cut or something...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by [ricer] View Post
    when it comes to the EK its probably best to get a ek4 half cut
    imagine how easy the conversion would be from a ek to a ek chasis...

    plus ive read numerous times that the EK wiring loom is only for ek as its a one piece where as the eg and dcs are different incase u were planning on getting a dc2 half cut or something...
    correct...Ek4 halfcut would be the best. We done a conversion into a EJ coupe in 6hrs, completed and running.

  9. #9
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    Aug 2005
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    Tasmania
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    Del Sol
    how much is a B16a installed these days?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jord View Post
    how much is a B16a installed these days?
    Just my guess but around 3.8k (for B16A2) + few hundred more if you need rear brake conversion


    But, you might want an answer from fatboyz39

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboyz39 View Post
    correct...Ek4 halfcut would be the best. We done a conversion into a EJ coupe in 6hrs, completed and running.
    That's fast, if you were in Brisbane I'd have u do mine
    WTB: EK oem JDM Visors

    I love J-Cups

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by EK1.6LCIV View Post
    That's fast, if you were in Brisbane I'd have u do mine
    Pm barefootbonazi...i heard he was faster

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