Spark Plugs

[tinkerbell]

NGK BKR6E-11's

once hand tight (not finger tight) i just crank my plugs a further 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn.

BTW - good info in this thread

[jenova]

Great info! Thx guys

Just one more, do u have to apply any lubricant on the plug tread to allow easy removal in future?

[tinkerbell]

not if you repalce every 5000km...

[Setanta]

I tend to find that mine shake loose a bit after a return interstate run (say 2500kms all up) so no - I wouldn't lubricate them... but I do 5K changes too. BTW - the NGK originals for me set me back 16 bucks for 4 at repco Hence no point to using anything else

[jenova]

Just replace my plugs today with these:



Pics of old plugs



Anyone knows how to tell the engine's condition by looking at the plugs?



The only difficulty encountered during the changing process is the plug in cylinder 3 is so tight that takes me several attempt to loosen it. Other than that it is pretty straight forward.

Fire up the car and took it for a drive, found that the engine response is much better. When vtec engage it is also louder and smoother, probably my old plugs are so worn that it become a bottleneck in the system.

Yeap, I strongly recommend anyone to try the ngk copper, only cost $4 each from most retailers. But before you went straight down to the shop to buy them after reading this, it is better to call and check for stock. As most shops don't normally stock them. Took me 4 visits to different places to get them. :wink:

Cheers

[jenova]

Did some search and found this :twisted:

http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Sp...s_catalog.html

[saboteur]

That's a good link jenova.

Hey do you guys know if you can get plugs pregapped to less than 8 (0.8mm/0.32")? This would just mean less messing about and if someone else replaces the plugs at a service at least the gap will be right. I want the gap to be 0.30" and I don't see that on http://www.ngk.com/images/ngksparkplug.jpg

Cheers,
Tim