Review: Pivot Raizin Volt Stabilizer

**mrpsi** · 30-04-2008 11:18 PM

and cars with large sound systems :P

**beeza** · 01-05-2008 05:06 AM

I'm runnin' some electrical stuffs:
-Sound system with amp and sub
-MSD Ignition System with modified ditributor cap + capacitor between the MSD unit and battery for surge protection
-12V battery stabilizer (not the grounding kit)
-2 Black lite neons

Just thinking now,I did have a electrical problem in the car which turned out to be a dodgy power cable from the amp to the battery.It was badly soldered and it sat under the passenger's feet,so the rubbing of the feet broke the solder and it was shorting out the amp when the wire touched the metal.So dodgy,that's why I was saying in that thread earlier about not to join a power cable,use 1 piece.
That problem drove me round the bend sometimes.Since I've fixed it,4 months ago,the amp has clipped out twice.I'm like NO NOT AGAIN...but it's an old amp

**dynosaur** · 01-05-2008 06:12 PM

I dun think u need the Pivot Raizin Volt Stabilizer....

coz ur HotInazma is good enough to do the job....

**beeza** · 02-05-2008 10:41 AM

It definately made a difference in my car...
If I took out anything it would be the 12V Battery Stabilizer.

**VTECMACHINE** · 02-05-2008 12:23 PM

Big upgrade to the DC2R - I recommend this mod. It did wonders in my DC2.

**beeza** · 02-05-2008 12:26 PM

Good to hear Newcomer

**mrpsi** · 05-05-2008 12:34 AM

Your car has a battery with + and - terminals. The - (negative) terminal is connect to the chassis for a reason. That way only positive power cables need to be run to all the parts of the car. ie. all your lights are grounded to the chassis, there's a little ground box all your black wires from the lights go to, without the chassis grounded, NOTHING WILL WORK!

To try and gain performance through grounding you need to follow this:

1) make sure you have a good battery! (have it tested if you are not sure)
2) Check the actual connections at the battery, not just to the posts, but the wires at the battery connectors, these can corrode!
3) Check the battery ground. This should be 4gauge. It is overkill, but this wire will hold a lot of current, so there is no reason to skimp. Make sure the cable is attached at a clean, ie. no paint, or scraped surface on the chassis. The more surface area the better. Adding a second ground will not hurt, if you are unsure of the first, add one.
4) undo every engine ground you can find, one at a time and re-scrape the grounding point to make sure it has a good connection, then reconnect it.
5) if the wires on your grounds are dark, ie. not shiny like copper should be, either cut the wire back to a fresh portion, or REPLACE the cables.
6) Replace any sketchy cables with 8gauge cable, for the short runs these cables have, it is more than enough, trust me, for less than 2 ft, 8gauge is plenty. Arospeeds kit is way overkill and is just made to look nice. You can make your grounds look nice with cool looking cable and descent routing methods.
7) Add a ground or two. Just run 8gauge cable from the chassis to an extra spot or two on the engine or tranny. Using either an intake manifold bolt, or valve cover bolt, run a ground to the chassis, ie. the stut tower (don't forget to scrape the paint)
8) if your lights dim at idle, check the tension on the alternator belt, it will make sure the alternator is getting driven.

MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS WELL GROUNDED

**beeza** · 05-05-2008 02:19 PM

You heard the man stay grounded people

j/k 's Great post!

**joyride** · 14-05-2008 05:46 PM

do all the wires need to go back to the -ve battery terminal or can it just be grounded to the chassis? i'm thinking of DIYing my own ground cables

**hisoka** · 16-05-2008 10:17 PM

be careful buying this product guys, i recently bought one which looked exact same box and all and found out it was a fake...i thought it was real until i went on the pivot website, then it shows how to find fake one~ its very hard