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Thread: Turboing EK1

  1. #49
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    60-POV
    Yes it will fit but it will sit abit lower.

  2. #50
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    Yea, once i get B series, i'd put it in, then save abit more money to buy required parts. (B series manifold, and probably new turbo + downpipe, i would want XSpower near my B18, and better intercooler)

    I put in first post some things i wanted to upgrade being
    Better oil lines
    Better gaskets

    Some others are
    Electronic boost controller
    better wastegate + bov (would be last, after ECU + tune)

    And i might just go 2.5" then, it sounds like less hastle ?

  3. #51
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    I cant believe the amount of shit that gets posted around these forced induction forums now

    1996ek1 - a bit of advice.

    You get what you pay for. Your buying a brand new kit that is only slightly more expensive then a Garrett turbo, there is a reason for this. Poor quality workmanship, materials, etc.

    In light of this, this is what I would do IF i were you. Keep the intercooler, intercooler piping, oil lines, gaskets and sell the rest to some idiot on ebay.

    You can buy a brand new Garrett turbo from cheapturbo.com for a reasonable price. Go onto honda-tech and find a cheap cast manifold, there are plenty of them available for good prices. Hell I got mine from a user off these boards for 200 odd dollars brand new. While your there you might aswell try and find a downpipe while your at it. Then go to tunertoys.com and pick up some 440cc injectors, they make a great product with lots of happy customers.

    Bolt it all up, grab yourself an emanage and head to a tuner. The emanage is relatively easy to tune and gives great results, PM weq if you want confirmation of this.

    While this will cost you more, your going to have a kit that WILL last longer then what you have at the moment and give greater results. I don't really care if anyone on here tells me there is nothing wrong with that kit that you have at the moment, it is shit
    Last edited by LVNIT; 03-11-2007 at 11:26 AM.
    Euro...?

    The lower I go, the more she likes it!

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  4. #52
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    its not overkill because he will be going b-series with a new turbo and will be making 250+ hp and a 2.5" will be a waste of power and in the meantime a 3" will do no harm at all, it will be the same if not better than a 2.5". So stop talking shit, in no way is 3" overkill for even his current planned setup let alone future one. Turbo is opposite to n/a some of you seem to be getting mixed up.
    Last edited by 0098; 03-11-2007 at 12:30 PM.

  5. #53
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    Thanks for all the advice guys.
    Leave me with 1 question, should i get a new fuel pressure regulator, or even an adjustable one ?

    And what should i do with sparkplugs?
    I read you should get 1 degrees colder plugs or something to that effect?

  6. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by LVNIT View Post
    I cant believe the amount of shit that gets posted around these forced induction forums now

    1996ek1 - a bit of advice.

    You get what you pay for. Your buying a brand new kit that is only slightly more expensive then a Garrett turbo, there is a reason for this. Poor quality workmanship, materials, etc.

    In light of this, this is what I would do IF i were you. Keep the intercooler, intercooler piping, oil lines, gaskets and sell the rest to some idiot on ebay.

    You can buy a brand new Garrett turbo from cheapturbo.com for a reasonable price. Go onto honda-tech and find a cheap cast manifold, there are plenty of them available for good prices. Hell I got mine from a user off these boards for 200 odd dollars brand new. While your there you might aswell try and find a downpipe while your at it. Then go to tunertoys.com and pick up some 440cc injectors, they make a great product with lots of happy customers.

    Bolt it all up, grab yourself an emanage and head to a tuner. The emanage is relatively easy to tune and gives great results, PM weq if you want confirmation of this.

    While this will cost you more, your going to have a kit that WILL last longer then what you have at the moment and give greater results. I don't really care if anyone on here tells me there is nothing wrong with that kit that you have at the moment, it is shit

    Yea i think its shit too, but i dont have money for a great kit, for now lol. I wanted to get a GT28RS later on, and they are $1200 +, so i thought if i get a starter kit, then buy that later on, instead of spending a few hundred on a better turbo now, then the GT28RS later on, which would waist more in the end.

    And i dont want to buy a new manifold, because i plan to go b series, if this one can last 8+ months which i read it could, thats enough to save for a b series. That way i dont buy a D series manifold which im which wont fit my b series.

    I appreciate the advice, i might try sell the turbo and get a better one though, like you said. I planned on keeping all charge piping + intercooler, they should last.

  7. #55
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    GT28RS is more like $1450, i know someone who recently purchased one.
    On a D series running about 7PSI with a GT28R you get about 115kw atw (these are cars i know of but will not mention names as they don't like to be mentioned).
    I've seen the GT28RS run at 10PSI with stock internals 175kw atw.
    Both these kits got a new fuel pump & injectors. Might as well get them now cos you will need them in future and they can be reused in the B series.
    You don't want your engine to blow up from lack of fuel. I know in the US they use the cheap option of a rising fuel pressure regulator instead of the injectors and fuel pump.
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  8. #56
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    Will 3" be too big for below boost rpm by not allowing enough back pressure, and make the driveability worse than stock exhaust for a turbo on a b16a (or any other engine for that matter)? Because the car is acting as a N/A car up until boost kicks in...is that right?
    dRIVEN TOO DiStRaCt U

  9. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1996ek1 View Post
    Yea i think its shit too, but i dont have money for a great kit, for now lol. I wanted to get a GT28RS later on, and they are $1200 +, so i thought if i get a starter kit, then buy that later on, instead of spending a few hundred on a better turbo now, then the GT28RS later on, which would waist more in the end.

    And i dont want to buy a new manifold, because i plan to go b series, if this one can last 8+ months which i read it could, thats enough to save for a b series. That way i dont buy a D series manifold which im which wont fit my b series.

    I appreciate the advice, i might try sell the turbo and get a better one though, like you said. I planned on keeping all charge piping + intercooler, they should last.
    While I have seen this manifold last on the rare occasion, majority of people find that it cracks within the first month. By all means you might be one of the few lucky people who have a turbo last on them, but ill put money down that the manifold wont.

    If anything just make sure you get the injectors, don't worry about regulators or fuel pumps, you do not need them. Get yourself an emanage so you at least have something half decent.

    Edit: You can also pick up a basic Garrett turbo from cheapturbo.com (not a GT series) for AU$670 + shipping costs. So not a whole lot more for something which will most definitely last.
    Last edited by LVNIT; 03-11-2007 at 04:50 PM.
    Euro...?

    The lower I go, the more she likes it!

    Canberra Test Tag - For all your electrical testing needs



  10. #58
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    I think 3" will be too much on a low boosted car. For the D series i think 2 1/2 would be enough. You have to rem its only a 1.6ltr and under boost it will run really dogged
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  11. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0098 View Post
    its not overkill because he will be going b-series with a new turbo and will be making 250+ hp and a 2.5" will be a waste of power and in the meantime a 3" will do no harm at all, it will be the same if not better than a 2.5". So stop talking shit, in no way is 3" overkill for even his current planned setup let alone future one. Turbo is opposite to n/a some of you seem to be getting mixed up.
    3" is recommended when there's been work done to the engine.. e.g. forged piston kit, forged connecting rods, aftermarket camshafts & valve springs.. i.e. going for 200kw+ on a b-series

    for 105 - 200kw.. 2.5" is enough.. for b and d series engines..

    and this has been recommended by a few knowledgeable people on this forum.. (if you want the link, pm me, and i'll send it to you)

    but it really depends on the setup.. the setup that 1996ek1 has provided, 3" is overkill.

    but feel free to prove me wrong..
    Quote Originally Posted by ChargeR
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  12. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by tRipitaka View Post
    3" is recommended when there's been work done to the engine.. e.g. forged piston kit, forged connecting rods, aftermarket camshafts & valve springs.. i.e. going for 200kw+ on a b-series

    for 105 - 200kw.. 2.5" is enough.. for b and d series engines..

    and this has been recommended by a few knowledgeable people on this forum.. (if you want the link, pm me, and i'll send it to you)

    but it really depends on the setup.. the setup that 1996ek1 has provided, 3" is overkill.

    but feel free to prove me wrong..
    Just to reiterate what has been said, I had 2.5" on my B series turbo and it was fine.
    Euro...?

    The lower I go, the more she likes it!

    Canberra Test Tag - For all your electrical testing needs



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