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  1. #61
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    WITH MY N199AS IN PARIS
    Car:
    hondas suck <3
    Quote Originally Posted by ek4-guy View Post
    Well i'm a lil lost for words that might have been a bit much info but thanks for sharing.

    Did you know you can get some nasal spray for those type problems now.
    dont beleive that shit man...its just special fake advertising from the large corperations in the states...the only way to beat them is being an unemployed hippie

  2. #62
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    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Car:
    None yet,EK would be cool
    It all depends on the budget really and musical preference...
    low budget, get some good front speakers and source... maybe skip on the sub for the time being if you're rock etc. stuff where a good set of front speakers and decant back speakers put out ample bass (front speakers more important than back ones...) Or, if you're into drum and bass, hip hop, RnB, dance, whatever relies on it's beats and bass more, you may want to spend a bit more money on a sub and amp package. And a good enclosure will help you get the most out of your gear, as well as sound insulation... like those dynaxorb mats or whatever they are.

    About one sub vs. 2... dunno what it's like with SPL, but for sound quality, I'm sure 1 better quality sub will be a better option than 2 cheaper ones.

    Big budget? You're laughing.

    About what to get... all comes down to preference again and shop around and see what you like and do your research, as some brands may surprise you, and others may be overrated.

  3. #63
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Alice Springs
    Car:
    2000 dc2r
    found the link
    http://www.madsoundz.co.nz/
    click on show cars, there you will find details of the 1980 Vauxhall Chevette running a sony c90 head unit, 2x fusion Jona Lomu 15" subs, 8x fusion Lomu amp's, 8 batteries 1 big ass alternator, and it's subtitled.... Australiasias Loudest Car.....
    Last edited by AzKik-R; 04-07-2008 at 07:28 PM.

  4. #64
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    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Car:
    PRO70Y
    Awesome, seems heaps practical a setup for a day to day car... and also seems really within a $1000 budget...

    In answer to your original post, on a budget like that, go for mainstream consumer brands (Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, JL)

    you got $1000 and you want hectic bass...

    YOU as the driver, want the bass, so you want to focus on the Front stage and Sub more than the rear stage.

    chuck the stockies you got mounted in the front and buy some $200~$300 Splits that can be mounted as Coaxials. The ROCKFORD FOSGATE P162s is a great choice as it is from the PUNCH series, known for good mid-sub bass, and has 2 tweeters / channel, mountable seperately or coaxially (tho I rkn you could get the best sound by wiring and mounting them as split coaxials!)

    You already have the Type S in the back, they are better than stock, so keep them, and power them from the source.

    Now you have $700~$800 left for a 4channel amp & sub (2 channels for the splits up front & 2 to be bridged for the sub)

    That much money really isnt much in the world of car audio, especially this category of amplifiers & subs.

    But you could easily survive with something like an MTX 12" in a ported box (they come pre-fab for around $250 from strathfield car radio for the T7512-04 woofer). 400W RMS DVC is the minimum you wanna consider in this selection, cuz anything less won't be worth it.

    Go for ported enclosures so you get LOUDER sub bass, not so much deeper or punchier, louder, cuz more air can be moved

    Say the sub you choose costs you $250, your left with about $500 exclusivley for an amplifier.

    you would be looking at this stage for a 4channel that can put out at MINIMUM 100w/channel, so you can at least bridge it to 200W for the sub.

    great amps that fall in that price bracket offering that sort of power come from manufacturers like Kenwood, JL, Pioneer, Alpine & Soundstream.

    An example, the Alpine MRP-F600 4channel amp, powering 100w RMS x 4 channels, however it is bridgable to have 2x100W channels & a bridged 300W 3rd channel for the sub. RRP ~$500

    So pretend you were to buy the components I have made references to:
    Front: RF P162S Splits @ $250
    Sub: MTX Audio Thunder 7500 @ $250
    Amp: Alpine MRP-F600 @ $500

    there is a $1K system that will be very bassy, but still retain your high end.

    There are brands similar in both price and output/quality - you don't have to stick to my advised products, they are examples of what you can have.

    Remember that you still wanna hear they voices, so go with some good splits like those aforementioned and you'll kill two birds, retain high end and also add some MID BASS!!!! cant forget about that mid bass!
    Last edited by CaeL; 04-07-2008 at 07:14 PM.
    i drive a Proton...


  5. #65
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Car:
    PRO70Y
    on second thoughts, after reading the rest of your posts (lol) go buy a hectic mono block amp (1.1000 or summin) and save up for a JL 13W7 and custom ported enclosure.

    the 13" is amazing... punchy as a 10", loud as, if not louder than a 12", deep as a 15"
    i drive a Proton...


  6. #66
    if space is not a problem... go with MTX 9500

    I have one... but you need a good amp with shit load of power. this sub rated 1000RMS, I am running it on DLS A6 amp pumps 874 RMS @2 ohms given take.

    I choose the A/B amp instead of D amp due to the higher damping factor so it controls the bass better imo.

  7. #67

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