James Race Engines - help needed

[TODA AU]

kool thanks toda 9:5 sounds good, for the had im thinking of going .5mm over and either a toda or ferrera package.

also are roller rockers elimminating vtec worth it? im thinking of going down this path?

thanks guys.

I forgot to add,
Don't worry too much about oversizes with the DART block,
As the sleeves are replacable.

Re .5mm over, with 84mm+ bore, +0.5 or even +1.0mm works well.
You'll need to sort the porting out to match the larger valve size.
+0.5mm can re-use OEM seat in head.
+1.0mm you'll likley need new seats.

I'm not a fan of the US/NZ method of eliminating Vtec as I can't see the logic in turning a B-Series into an SR20.
Also, if this engine is going to see the street, it could be a bad idea.

[EGB18CT]

Yeh, i knew it the Dart had replacable sleeves and it was closed deck so one of the reasons i wanted it along with others...

Motors not really going to see the street as the turbo set up that im thinking of using will be a bit to hardcore so to speak and the placement of it will be difficult to filter the air etc.. this will mostly be a track baby - so im not afraid to have an out there setup.

[whtcrx]

I know people in Adelaide and Sydney I would use as machinists but not in Melbourne. Ask Andy (AK Motorworks) who he uses. Or better still, get him to build it.

If it was me I would be using Darton mid sleeves or the Darton aluminium block and doing it all here in Oz.

Who would you be suggesting for SA?

[Mitchman]

I have been dealing with <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> since November 2006, and I strongly recommend that you dont go anywhere near them!!!!!!!!!!!

I dropped a valve in November 2006 and my car is STILL off the road. I took my car to <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> for repairs, they outsourced <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details>for the machine work. After this build I think that relationship is pretty much over. Due to severe bore scuffing I was encouraged to go with Darton sleeves. They repaired the head and assembled the engine with a few upgraded internals.

During the build, for 3 months they were telling me the compression ratio of the TODA 87.5mm pistons I bought, had a compression ratio in the 16’s,and could not be used, but they'll see if theres anything they can do.They were also concered that deck hight would be a serious issue. Mind you this is a mass produced product built specifically for the F20, how the Fuk could it be so off. After finally getting a hold of the piston specs and emailing them to ***** (<E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details>) all of a sudden they had figured out the issue,and the pistons were 12.3:1 and there was enough clearance, as indicated by TODA. They blamed it on an apprentice miscalculating. You think after so many years in the business they’d double check the first time they got it wrong instead of wasting so much god damn time.

After waiting and waiting and waiting, my car was finally ready in mid September 2007. I paid up in full and drove off. I drove just as instructed and a few weeks later a loud tapping noise developed in the engine bay. I took it back as soon as I heard it ( early October 2007)Turns out the center two pistons had been slapping against the block and had caused more damage requiring the sleeves to be repaired and the pistons replaced.

I was assured everything would be taken care of under warranty, and I should have my car back mid January 2008. I called up after the Holiday break and apart from the engine being removed and torn down, NO work had been carried out. I spoke to <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> to enquire as to why this was, I was then informed that <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details>is refusing to make any repairs unless they are paid for any further work carried out. They were absolutely certain that they carried out all repairs and upgrades to spec the first time and they were not at fault. Therefore they would require payment if the damage was to be repaired

I put it to <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details>, that if they had built the engine, and <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> only physically put it back in the car, who’s fault was it??? Their reply was “we don’t know what caused the piston slap, or who’s fault it was, we just know it wasn’t ours.” The engine is currently being examined by a third, independent engineer to pin point the failure. <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> has said if we can prove they were at fault, they will make an insurance claim and then make the necessary repairs. I have serious doubts however that after the engineer report things will go so smoothly.

They are a pack of dinosaurs who are too used to working on push rod V8s. I wouldn’t trust them with any car whatsoever. They are slack, have a very poor business ethic and havn’t the slightest clue when it comes to customer service. <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> has offered to pay for all parts, all <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> has to do is donate their labor to repair my engine. They outright refused to co-operate and will not take even the slightest bit of responsibility.

I have forked payment in full even though the build went $2,000 over the original quote. I still don’t have what I paid for, my car is still sitting in chasers workshop while months pass by. <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> should at least, from a customer service point of view, take up <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> offer and make the appropriate repairs. I am EXTREAMLY disappointed with their work and do not recommend them to anyone. Advice to all, stay the bloody hell away from them!!!!!!!

Man have I gone through that sh!t (different shop)..... still waiting to send the papers away to fair trading over same thing but the engine head... they think they can fcuk up and its the clients fault... if only it was that easy to rip them off!