[DIY] - Rear Brake Pad Change

[Riviera]

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor
Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following.
You follow these steps at your own risk!


By Popular Demand in ECU-MAN's
DIY - Front Brake Pad Change
i had the pictures from when i changed my brake pads over
5 months ago i decided i'd take the time to write up
as best i cant how to change/replace the REAR brake pads


Vehicle:
1995 CD5 Accord VTi-S CD5


Aim: Change rear brake pads on 95 accord

Required:

12mm Spanner/socket
Jack
Jack Stands
Anti-Sieze Compound - Optional





Step: 1
Place Chocks in front of the front wheels Jack the rear of the car up securely and safely,
and release the hand brake.
you can either jack one side up at a time or use Jack Stands and remove both wheels.
i did mine one side at a time.







Step: 2
At this point you should be presented with the caliper and all other drive components
that you have under there.

Remove the top and bottom caliper bolts in an anti clock-wise motion when
looking at the bolt head.





Step: 3
Shift the brake caliper away and remove the brake pads.
(Try be gentle with your brake lines as they may be old and worn out)





Step: 4
At this point you can take the opportunity to clean down your calipers just
to get rid of built up material if you feel the need using a damp rag and/or
brush.
(A damp rag or brush contains the dust so you dont breath in the nasties
of it.)

Also not nessecary but my father taught me. apply some anti-sieze compound
or grease that comes with your pads to the metal slide plates.

(This stops the pads from either getting bogged in one spot due to dust or rattling)








Step: 5
place the slide plates back in the caliper, plate the new pads in between the plates
where you removed the old ones...





Step: 6

Now the fun part, winding the piston back in.
i was dodgey and used a File cause thats just me, you dont have to be

Wind the piston back in clock-wise...





Should look something like this





Interval:
Now my pads didnt have shims on them not sure if yours do and my new pads
didnt come with any so... meow meow


Step: 7 - Slide Pin Bolts

The Slide Pins/Caliper bolts are two piece the smaller bolt bolts into the end
of the slide pin, so before you put the bolts back in. Make sure they slide freely and
are not siezed, if they are hard to move. remove them clean them down
and apply some anti-sieze compound.

Now that you have successfully wound the piston back in, and have the new brake
pads in place. (making sure the pads a firmly against the rotor). Put the caliper
back in its place ensuring that the nib on the inside pad is in the gap of the piston and will clear
put the bolts back in.







Step: 8

Pump the prake pedal about 5 or so times until it becomes firm again

check your brake fluid level and add some or remove some if nessesary.

put your wheels on and make sure your wheel nuts are tight.

lower your car from the stands

double check your wheel nuts, press the brake pedal again, check your brake fluid level.



Step: 9

Unless you have no bedding required brake pads which is Bendix - CT
which is what i installed on the front yesterday you must do this... better yet,
do it anyway.

road test time. before you drive off make sure you have a good brake pedal

now this is not just a road test, you have to bed the pads in.
this is my way of bedding in the pads

drive up to about 40KM/h to 50 KM/h make sure there is no cars behind you,
and press on your brake pedal firmly not to lock up the wheels though and do
not allow the car to come to a stop. Slow to about to 15KM/h, then back off
the brakes, speed up to 40KM/h to 50 KM/h again and repeat the firm braking.
do this 3 to 4 times.

do this pretty much asap, dont go for a drive to find a good stop to do it. do it
down your street. also be carefull as the 1st 2 brake attempts wont be as good
as they should be.

STEP: 7 - Edited - Slide Pins are Two Piece
STEP: 1 Edited - wheel chocks release the hand brake sigh...

Credits to ECU-MAN borrowed some some of the text because its similar and relevant

[ECU-MAN]

nice DIY dude

good work

[beeza]

Thank U! Printed!

btw,here's John's (ECU MAN) Front Brake Pad Change

[sid]

just 1 question. Does the hand brake have to be down or does that not matter?

[beeza]

Yeah it needs to be off,otherwise the pads will be locked on the rotors.

[quang]

you should add, when you push the piston back and put it back on, that little bump on the back of the inside pad should sit inside a slot on the piston.

[Riviera]

ooo thank you didnt notice....

[maracer]

great write up

[Bludger]

good work.

One thing to note is that the step where you're winding the piston back in, make sure everyone does it slowly and carefully.

doing so with haste & being rough about it may damage the seals.

A tip I believe in is to wind it in 2 parts, wind it back out 1 part. Keep doing so until its back in there into the desired position.

cos when you wind it back out, it alleviates the pressure on the seal.

[oldschool]

nice write up dude! +1

[power_of_dreams]

bumping thread.

what's the go with brake fluid flush.
Do I need to do this when changing rear/front pads?

[Riviera]

only do a fluid flush if you need too.

e.g. if your brakes are squishy, tend to fade after extensive useage etc etc

or if its contaminated. if you want just do a flush so u know its done then you
really should have to do one for at least 60,000... just make sure its topped up