sub shuts off when music too loud

[EuroDude]

If its not a grounding problem, then Amp may be overheating. Try installing a fan on the amp or relocate the amp so it can get decent air ventilation and cool down properly

It also could mean that the Amp simply cannot handle the power output.
i.e. My "700w" sony Amp kept on shutting off and dimming the headlights. I replaced it with a lower wattage Audison and it has never shut off or dimmed excessively, and sounds much better.

[Vinnie]

that amp should be capable of running that sub fine (or any sub for that matter) as long as the gains are set properly and it isnt faulty...

[EuroDude]

Yeah the Sub and Amp seem to be matched up ok.

Perhaps the wiring is incorrect and the ohms are too much for the Amp.

[Dane]

I got an Alpine head unit that was shutting itself off today too. It isn't hooked up to any amps or anything just cranked the volume up to about 20 and the H/U just turned off and then back on at about number 4 volume???????????????????????

[ABANG]

with your gears, you should be able to play them very loud without having them cutting off throughout all volume. It seems like you have signal clipping problem. Check your amp gain, and try to set your gain at minimum, and see if the problem goes away. If it did go away, slightly increase your gain to suit your taste.

hope this helps and let us know how you go.

cheers

well the sub is a pioneer tsw121spl
12 inch Subwoofer for Enclosure Applications
2,000 Watts Max. Power Handling
3-Layer Fibre Woven Radial Surround
Dual 4 ohm Voice Coil Windings
Silver Binding-post Terminals
DESIGN & SPECIFICATIONS
12" Subwoofer for Enclosure Applications
2,000 Watts Max. Power Handing
750 Watts Nominal Rating
Qts = 0.328
Xmax = 12.7mm
Fs = 29.9 Hz
Vas = 34.53 litres
Frequency Response: 18 – 2,000 Hz
Efficiency: 89dB
Impedance: 2 or 8 ohms
Lowest Resonant Frequency: 30Hz
Recommended Sealed Enclosure: 42.5 Litres

and the amp i got is a response monoblock 1000 rms

[EuroDude]

pihlor how did you wire the DVC sub? Parallel or Serial configuration?

Did you calculate the ohms when wiring the sub up?

[cutchorama]

Is your car battery getting old? Has your battery ever been flat? You might need a capacitor to allow a steady flow of current to your amp. This could be the case if the battery cannot disperse enough power instantaneously when the amp draws it. Remember, the thinner your wires and the longer they run, the worse it is.

If you want to test it, try putting a capacitor with the amp.

Does it happen when you engine is off?

[Vinnie]

capacitors = pretty much useless, especially when used to try and cover up other weaknesses in the cars electrical system they will only exacerbate the problem.

[cutchorama]

Alot of high performance sound systems need capacitors. They recommend 1 farad per 1000 watts. If it is the power loss from the battery you can either:

upgrade your battery to a gold top
run shorter/ thicker gauge through to your amps
mount a battery in your boot with an isolator
large capacitor to allow smooth power supply

[EuroDude]

Yeah the battery runs the whole car including the engine ignition so the current can vary. For high powered audio systems, you need a Cap to smooth out the current and to provide peak wattage when the battery cannot supply enough juice. A Capacitor is basically a temporary battery.

[rahul]

I have seen a few "high performance" systems and none of them have capacitors. Most ppl agree that capacitors are useless in many situations.

More for the bling factor than anything. Espically in this case, he's only running an avg pionner sub with a response amp.

As you said, upgrade batter if necessary
run thicker gauge wirel 4ga is fine, 0ga is overkill

def upgrade earths with a earth kit even DIY is fine.
find a proper earth and sand it down to the metal.
and have good ventililation.

if all else fails, its probably a faulty amp

[Vinnie]

Alot of high performance sound systems need capacitors. They recommend 1 farad per 1000 watts. If it is the power loss from the battery you can either:

upgrade your battery to a gold top
run shorter/ thicker gauge through to your amps
mount a battery in your boot with an isolator
large capacitor to allow smooth power supply

a good deep cycle battery and upgraded wiring/earths will be far more useful than capacitors. you do not need 1 farad per 1000 wrms, that rule is only if you actually decide to run caps. where did u get that info from?