Impressions/comments:Wish I got the 4000 series to get the anti water corrosion technology. At the time, couldn't really notice any difference from OEM to DBA.
Rating out of 5: 3.5
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Comments:
I had a 4.8kg exedy flywheel in my car once.. made little difference.
i moved to a fidanza 3.3kg flywheel (really really light).. made alittle more difference.
stock is 6.1 kg, pretty light already.
light flywheel makes very little difference in our F20C motors due to our heavyish RWD drive train. on, say a b18C, makes a night and day difference however.
it does make the motor more responsive when blipping the throttle for rev matching.
you'll need a lot more sensntivity in your right foot on the track, maintaining weight balance in the car around corners is also more challenging - but yet more rewarding.
you only bother to do a light flywheel when you need to change your clutch.
And if you're only into driving in a straight line, then don't bother with a flywheel. If you're into serious driving, then a flywheel will help, also make it more difficult. The car is already quite hard to manage stock, without having to regulate your rpm with a light flywheel (rise a fall really quick - when you release the gas, the RPMs WILL drop fast, and the car WILL get unsettled).
Rating 3/5 - only worth it when doing a clutch job
If you want to mod your car to be a better daily driver, more zip, and actually feel a difference in day-to-day driving, then get a 4.44, 4.56, or 4.77 final drive.
Fuel consumption with higher final drives? it doesn't seem to have too much of an effect, pedal position is really what is going to determine your fuel consumption. I recommend a 4.44 FD to take out the lack lustre bottom end in our cars.
Comments
No drawbacks I found. It was good for getting rid of off the line bogging on hot days.
Get a heap of leaves and bugs stuck on your filter which are a b*tch to clean. the airbox does get filled up with dirt and mud as well.
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