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  1. #37
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    Thanks Weq!
    Cheers mate!

  2. #38
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DA3 Integra
    Quote Originally Posted by Weq View Post
    Ahh sorry, it was another guy who had the stock shocks.

    "just want to know what its like to drive on a track."

    Just keep your car stock then. Dont come into a racing forum and ask how to make your car a track car, unless you are after some contructive critisim on how to make your car handle well and make your engine competitive. Seriously. I dont browse n00b forums for a reason. If u want to pose, go pose.

    This isnt a D vs B vs K debate. Its about value for money engine setups for a specific application. Your D wont be responsive unless you know what you are doing. It wont make any power unless u know what you are doing. the DOHC D's are slugs. Responsive doesnt belong in the same sentance as it. But hey, what would i know.
    look, i'm all about the constructive critique, god knows you've got to be ready to expect it if you ever post about anything. but saying that i'm building a track "style" car or that i'm "posing" or showing off to my friends? none of that is constructive. I'd feel differently if i was putting unrealistic expectations on the table, like asking you what i need to do to build a Type R beating D, or a 1 minute wakefield time attack machine... but i haven't.

    and since when do i need to have race proven experience to ask a question? i was under the misconception that maybe because my post was about track racing, that it should go into the relevant "track/drag" racing thread?

    i don't deny you know what you're talking about, and anything you say is probably more than i know. but seriously, whats wrong with wanting to give something a go? just because i don't live and breathe high performance track cars, i should automatically just not be interested in trying at all, and just keep things stock?

    i appreciate you've commented on things like brakes, cooling, traction and such, but why not give me constructive comments on handling? you tell me that the d's are slugs and unresponsive unless i do things right... so what things can i do to make a responsive d?
    You never go ass to mouth!

  3. #39
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Car:
    '94 Civic VTi
    Maybe you should of phrased your question a little better. Maybe posed a budget. If you hadnt noticed, this section isnt used by n00bs looking at doing street car that can survive a track session, I guess thats what your asking??

    And you go ahead and rattle of a list of mods that i certainly would be looking at for such a car. ITB's on a D-series would be trying to acheive maximum performance. They certainly dont come cheap and certainly arnt the most street friendly setup. You can understand my confusion cant you?

    Ok here is my advice.

    Go get a whiteline catalog. And get a full handling pack. This includes upgrading all your bushings. This takes all the guess work out of it. These guys make a fantastic handling package that will transform the feel of your car. Thsi is what we used back in the day for all our handling needs. It saves u buying a heep of useless JAP parts just because a bunch of ricers run them and they seem popular.

    Sways F/R inc chasis re-enforcement
    Tie bar
    Camber arms
    Progrssive springs and koni shocks
    Bushings

    Brakes;
    Look at a BBk from the states. Some kits let u put bigger discs with stock caliper. IMO DC2/EK conversion is a waste of time (ive done it). Just get some slotted discs and track pads for your sessions. braided brake lines and track quality fluid.

    You engine. If u dont want to spend money on a swap, forget about ALL your mods you listed. These are the only things id be doing.

    * ~8lb Findeza flywheel
    * Action 1MS clutch
    * OBX LSD
    * Pod filter and intake pipe
    * 2" exhaust, as straight as possible. maybe a cheap header, but not essential.
    * Hondata s200 with launch control and full throttle shift + tune
    * Thermostated oil cooler, upgraded radiator
    * Lightweigth rims + rcompound tyres

    Everything else you do is a waste of time. The above engine will be alot more rev happy, so you could think of it as being 'more responsive'. But i still maintain DOHC D's are not responsive. They are a slug like a SR20DE.
    [TNT] Team No Traction - Cos No Traction Is Underrated

    Two turbos, is better then one.

  4. #40
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    Is a d turbo at 10-12 psi good to run on stock internals? say with 100,000km on the clock.

  5. #41
    Don't bother with R-compound tyres until you can't go any faster on street tyres. You'll get many track days from the grand you'll save. Seat time makes you faster than any other modification. Street tyres only wear badly on a track when you are driving badly (i.e. plowing in too hot into a corner. Front tyres squealing ALL THE TIME will kill the tyre fast).

  6. #42
    i have a d series in my civic and i make 195kws front wheels with 20psi on 350hp turbo, very responsive, 14psi daily driven 165kws.
    i have had alot of turbo d's and i know them in and out, on stock internals i wouldn't run more than 10psi intercooled, there weak anything over 10psi.
    As for going N/A in a d series you can make some excellent power but it will cost ya, here is a site for more info
    http://jgenginedynamics.com/Adobe%20...20by%20JGE.pdf

  7. #43
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    Is there anyone you would recommend to do head work etc on a d?

  8. #44
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Civic EG4 B16A
    Quote Originally Posted by trism View Post
    people who give recomendations like that deserve a punch in teh vagina
    mangina?
    Got an old Videogame console, handheld, games and accessories. PM me! I want them

  9. #45
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Car:
    lownslowsedan
    same thing

  10. #46
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    In the rice fields of QR
    Car:
    Euro boat
    Hard to go past a full Type-R B series transplant when building a track car.

    The factory Honda forged engine allows you to do the laps without worrying to much about rods and pistons flying out the block as a turbo setup would; well one that hasn't had a truck load of money spent on forging.

    Also the factory LSD and gearbox help with putting the power down to the ground rather then the gear ratio's of a D series engine with no LSD.
    Hipower Racing EG - 60.82 !!! QR Sprint course
    My EG4 + JDM B18C powered Civic SOLD !

  11. #47
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CT9A
    Buy a Integra Type R (Dc2r) if you have the money...!

  12. #48
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    RunX
    I'd say do some basic prep to get it to a standard where you can get it to the track to get some practice and a baseline lap time. There is no point in doing mods if you don't know if they helped out or not. Then once you have hit the wall with what you have, or something breaks/wears out, then replace it with an upgraded part. I'm no Honda expert, best early items to start with would be;
    Plenty of track time
    Race driver training
    Good tyres
    Upgraded brake pads, also remove the splash guards behind the rotors as they hold heat in.

    Then move onto other items like spring/coilover upgrades and other suspension chassis items. As for big brake kits you need to think about whether you will see a return in lap times for the money spent. You spend very little time on the brakes around a track. Sticking some good pads in, like Ferodo DS2500, would be one of the best starts.

    As for engine work, stick to basics like intake and exhaust. If the D series is anything like the Toyota 1zz it is still cheaper to blow two of them then to upgrade the internals or swap to a 2zz engine, gearbox and wiring harness.

    Just slowly upgrade as that way you can see what works and what doesn't and promptly stop using the part that is slowing you down.

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