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  1. #73
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Car:
    EG, GV07
    Quote Originally Posted by tron07 View Post
    I would get a W7 or W6 and not a pice of junk
    if i can afford the W6 or W7, yes i will definitely get those..ive seen these subs in action W7 8 inch just one in the boot and it rocks the whole car...

    im running jl xr splits and i wanted to be like a whole jl set-up but i just couldnt afford the high end subs from jl.

    what do you think of the earlier jl subs? they any good as the new ones now?
    Stock EG---Modified Driver
    TGSII

  2. #74
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    93 EG3
    To keep it simple mate, anything you put in a hatch will pound as long as its set up correctly. Ive had rockfords, pioneeron and fusion subs. rockfords had great sound quality with very little power, and with large amounts of power to my three fusions, it was rediculous, but i also had an amplifyer that was capable of running the subs. at the end of the day get it set up correctly and get an amplify and subs that can run at 1ohm or 2 ohm stable.

    and remember its just like setting up you car if you have great brakes and crapy tires, they wont work well together, same applys to car audio

  3. #75
    Quote Originally Posted by MDL30N View Post

    what do you think of the earlier jl subs? they any good as the new ones now?
    I used to have a old JL 12W0 long time back, it was good. If you want cheap and loud only and not SQ, you can go for W3. Otherwise go for W6 and if lot of budget W7 is the way.

    13W7.... FTW!

  4. #76
    Quote Originally Posted by MDL30N View Post
    sealed and tuned..running an audiocontrol 6XS active x-over and just a 4channel alpine amp..
    if your box is sealed and its a lot bigger then the recomended specs, it is kinda of like running in IB mode.... infinite baffle aka free air. Becareful not to damage your coils if you over extend them when you crank it up.

  5. #77
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Melb. EAST
    Car:
    EVO
    shh guys, op has his sub&amp combo already.. lets move on

  6. #78
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Alice Springs
    Car:
    2000 dc2r
    I think for unreal bass, get a fusion NV12, and a soundstream D class 1000w mono block.
    You could try get a kicker L7, but not for the money you're willing to spend.

    http://images.google.com.au/images?u...q=fusion+nv+12

  7. #79
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Ireland
    Car:
    CL7 Accord Euro R
    I used to run 2x pioneer tsw3001's with a kicker kx1200.1,changed them for a single L7 and it was alot better than the pioneers.I eventually sold the L7 for an Mtx thunder 8515 and 9500D amp running in a ported box theres a silly amount of bass from it.

    I didnt bother installing it in my teg but im gonna rebuild the box for the accord,if you can get a listen to some mtx stuff do.

  8. #80
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Alice Springs
    Car:
    2000 dc2r
    Quote Originally Posted by Eire View Post
    I used to run 2x pioneer tsw3001's with a kicker kx1200.1,changed them for a single L7 and it was alot better than the pioneers.I eventually sold the L7 for an Mtx thunder 8515 and 9500D amp running in a ported box theres a silly amount of bass from it.

    I didnt bother installing it in my teg but im gonna rebuild the box for the accord,if you can get a listen to some mtx stuff do.
    Does anyone in australia have a Jackhammer?

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