Subwoofer Advice

[EKVTIR-T]

Something that would pound,something American then.
Without a budget its hard but JL or Kicker can "pound".

[arverson]

all the brands mentioned (plus MANY more) have subs costing from low hundred to thousands, comes down to your budget really..

[Breezy]

Ok my budget would be about $800 including mono. Depends, maybe about $300 - 400 on sub and the rest on the mono. Should i spend more on the sub or mono? A 300WRMS sub should be enough in a eg yeah?

[EuroDude]

I was gonna suggest the Audison SRX1D but its a tad too expensive at ~$700

# Bridgeable 1 Channel Output
# 1 Ohm Stable
# Low Pass Crossover
# 1 x 500 Watt @ 4ohms
# 1 x 800 Watt @ 2ohms
# 1 x 1000 Watt @ 1ohms
http://www.audison.eu/index_main.php?Section=SRX1


Maybe u can find a second hand one.. Otherwise I'd go for a Kicker Amp.

Spend about half:half for the Amp+Sub. Make sure the Sub has slightly higher RMS wattage (ignore peak watts) than the Amp so you don't damage anything.

[tron07]

whats the budget? i had a cheapo clarion one in my old civic. running a nice 2 channel amp into it and it went hard. its not so much about the sub as it i about the amp. at the lower end of the scale there is some decent clarion one around or a type r if you want the wank factor of it. as the price goes up the subs get better (ome are alo not any better) but no need to get a 95 series unless you dont plan on being in the car. and a w7 is a waste of 2 grand. its not going to sound 1500 bucks better than a cheapo

lol......

what ever rocks your boat

[rice_civic]

how can you justify spending 2 grand on something that is going to do the same job as a 300 dollar one. you got to remember that this is car audio not home audio and you can only make a tin box sound so good. ive been exposed to some pretty upmarket stereos and they don't sound that much better than cheaper ones i have heard. 2 grand is alot of money to piss away on a sub.

[Vinnie]

how can you justify spending 2 grand on something that is going to do the same job as a 300 dollar one. you got to remember that this is car audio not home audio and you can only make a tin box sound so good. ive been exposed to some pretty upmarket stereos and they don't sound that much better than cheaper ones i have heard. 2 grand is alot of money to piss away on a sub.

because, if properly setup, the more expensive dd/jl equivalnet will always sound better than the much cheaper equivalents. the law of diminishing return does apply though, you may not deem it worth the large amount of extra money for an incomparative increase in sq/spl but if u want the best then thats what it costs...

and comparing a $2k sub to a $300 is useless anyway, you have obviously never heard the higher end sub in a proper installation (if you have ever heard them at all) to be making that claim...

[rice_civic]

as i said before. i have been exposed to some high end stereos. to spend 2 grand on a sub means you have to spend a tone on the rest of the system so it matches up and at the end of the day its all music. if you think you can justify spending 10 grand or more to get something that does the same job as a 3 grand setup then go for it. there is alot of cheaper options if you want the bet sound possible. id be interested to know what splits you guys are running to match up to your w7s. if you think you have the best sounding stereo possible.

[B18cEG]

For starters "shut up rice civic" u obviously dont belong in this conversation, If you buy a cheap $150-$300 sub you pretty much get wat u pay for, for example Alpine type-s and type-r are both very low end subs from my experience believe me people i install at least 1-2 of each every day, yeah they might sound good for a while but try running a bit of power over a long time and they will get killed and dont sound so great either, the cone comes lose internally and they distort at much lower than there continuous power says. One of the differences between a cheap and a good sub is the structure and operation, cheap = weak, bad cooling, made for people that want a little bass, more expensive = strong woofer, better material cone (lighter in most cases) great venting to cool the coil, MADE FOR PEOPLE SERIOUS ABOUT BASS!!! thats the difference i would suggest paying between $400 and $800 for an awesome sub, no need for any more unless ur competing, by the way the new alpine PDX monos are very good. a sub that i strongly suggest is the Crossfire XT15 or XT212, if u want something that will rattle the bolts out of ur car and make if hard to see get the XT15 but make sure u use a ported ~3cubic foot box for best results 1000wrms amp will be great match for this sub to ensure that u can run it all day all the way with no problem, or go for the XT212 if u still want massive bass but a little less deep, i used to have the XT15 in my eg hatch and would literaly make people vomite, no jokes. pm me if your serious about spending some money on a sub and amp and i will give you info from experience not thoughts n theorys.

Thanks

[rice_civic]

check what the thread starter is asking before you decide what the conversation is about. a budget of 800 for sub and amp doesnt allow for a w7 to be even dreamed of and a pdx alone would be close to his entire budget. you should of read the thread before having your input

[aka_NSX]

I'm agree with rice_civic

[B18cEG]

Ok my budget would be about $800 including mono. Depends, maybe about $300 - 400 on sub and the rest on the mono. "SHOULD I SPEND MORE ON THE SUB OR MONO?" A 300WRMS sub should be enough in a eg yeah?

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