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  1. #1
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Car:
    Accord Euro Sports 2007

    Rear Sway Bar endlinks

    I've snapped an OEM rear sway bar endlink. Does anyone on here sell stronger aftermarket alternatives?

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    WOW! never heard of that.The Euro is a heavier car but...

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Sydney Harbour Bridge
    Car:
    03 CL9 Euro
    i replaced mine due to it being snapped from the stock rear swaybar.

    i used MOOGS endlinks from www.rockauto.com.
    RIGHT rear endlink- K90342
    LEFT rear endlink- K90343

    double check that these are the right ones for accord euro/tsx as i am tired.
    hope this helps, only cost about $80+/-

    how did you snap it? with aftermarket rear swaybar?
    vTeK 4-Life!
    FOR SALE: CL9

  4. #4
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Car:
    Accord Euro Sports 2007
    Yep, I have Whiteline's RSB installed. Thanks for your help.

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Sydney Harbour Bridge
    Car:
    03 CL9 Euro
    yeh no worries.
    vTeK 4-Life!
    FOR SALE: CL9

  6. #6
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Car:
    Accord Euro Sports 2007
    According to Rock Auto's catalogue, the following parts appear for the 2004 TSX:

    SPICER Part # 5451228 {Professional Grade Sway Bar Repair Kit}
    Rear Suspension; Right
    $16.72 $0.00 $16.72

    SPICER Part # 5451229 {Professional Grade Sway Bar Repair Kit}
    Rear Suspension; Left
    $16.72 $0.00 $16.72

    MOOG Part # K90342 {Sway Bar Link Kit}
    Rr Susp; RH
    $17.86 $0.00 $17.86

    MOOG Part # K90343 {Sway Bar Link Kit}
    Rr Susp; LH
    $17.86 $0.00 $17.86


    The pictures of the Spicer parts don't look any heavier duty than the OEM endlinks. Crapdaz, were the MOOG endlinks any different to the OEMs? They have no pictures of these on their catalogue.

    For my 2006 Euro, only the Spicer parts are called up which further complicates the issue.

    Thanks.

  7. #7
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    2004 and 2006 uses the same endlinks. So you can use MOOG.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Sydney Harbour Bridge
    Car:
    03 CL9 Euro
    The pictures of the Spicer parts don't look any heavier duty than the OEM endlinks. Crapdaz, were the MOOG endlinks any different to the OEMs? They have no pictures of these on their catalogue.

    For my 2006 Euro, only the Spicer parts are called up which further complicates the issue.

    Thanks.
    i can go take a photo for you but you would have to wait til tomorrow night for me to post.(as i am a bit buggered atm)

    the moogs one, compared to OEM one? you'll laugh when you see it.
    you'll think how the hell can the oem one hold the bar... didnt measure it but from comparison the moogs is about 2-3x thicker.

    WARNING: Installing it manually will be a pain as i was sprawled on the ground with two hand spanners tightening with lack of space. If you know a mate jack up and use rattling gun while holding a spanner to tighten. Otherwise call me a noob.
    Last edited by Crapdaz; 14-05-2008 at 11:01 PM.
    vTeK 4-Life!
    FOR SALE: CL9

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    ACT
    Car:
    05 Euro M Red 6
    How can this happen? I have whiteline also, now im worried!
    I went to the modded XR5 Turbo with Mods - the dark side.....BOOOOST!

  10. #10
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Car:
    Accord Euro Sports 2007
    No need for the photos thanks Crapdaz. I've ordered the Moog endlinks.
    Thanks for your help - I have a trolley jack etc so replacing the endlinks will be simple.

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Sydney Harbour Bridge
    Car:
    03 CL9 Euro
    i dont know hwo it happened i was surprised too.
    i checked the endlinks first then found it leftside was snapped (with stock bar).
    Called HA to see how much from spareparts they quoted me $110/side not incl installing.
    but i thought its not worth it aftermarket all the way and its cheaper for something stronger.
    Too much cornering and putting the links understress i reckon eventually you'll find rust building up on the shaft and snaps the bottom joint off. Thats how i found mine, with rust around the snapped section.

    CORRECT ME IF I AM WRONG.
    vTeK 4-Life!
    FOR SALE: CL9

  12. #12
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Car:
    Accord Euro Sports 2007
    Quote Originally Posted by Suntzu View Post
    How can this happen? I have whiteline also, now im worried!
    Hard cornering can twist the endlinks causing them to snap I suppose. The stiffer the rear sway bar, the faster one tends to corner thereby increasing the torque applied to the rear sway bar and the endlinks. The endlinks attach each end of this bar to the hub and the OEM endlinks aren't strong enough.

    Snap! Don't worry though, if this happens you'll hear it. Thereafter your car will tend to oversteer and not corner as well.

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