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  1. #25
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Get the lower arm bar as well. That one improves steering response more than the front strut bar on the Euro.
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    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  2. #26
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    House
    Car:
    RA109 / BGP001
    I wouldnt need to upgrade the front sway as well would i? I've noticed that people have been upgrading the rear as the front is already strong enough. I guess it would be better to upgrade anyway.

  3. #27
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Upgrading the front sway bar would also improve steering response. But too stiff at the front and you get soem understeer. Plus, to install the front sway bar is fiddly as you will have to lower the subframe a bit. You can buy aftermarket front sway bars. Swift sells a set.
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    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  4. #28
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Understeer Town.
    Car:
    Land Barge
    Careful with a stiffer rear setup.
    People tend to think having more oversteer in a FWD car is good.
    But if you're nailing it through mountain passes, you're not gonna have much room for error. Tighter roads, traffic etc.

    Track is fine though, I ran this setup and adjusted accordingly throughout the day. Spinning out was no biggy.
    Touge style driving doesn't offer such a luxury.

    I think it's a compromise between a softer setting to absorb bumps + road imperfection. And a stiffer setting to allow for more feedback and less body roll.

    If you're hitting 140-150km/hr at the end of some straights on mountain roads. Then you'd want as much tyre to road contact when you drop anchor. Heh.

    Super Duper Awesome tyres usually save the day though.

  5. #29
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Honda
    You need to adjust the camber setting..If you are in melb, go to centreline.they are the best in melb.

  6. #30
    The stiffer you make the front, the further you are from neutral-steer at any longitudinally acceleration.

    If you want steering response get ready for the onslaught of understeer that comes with it.

    nigs: Got a story to tell about your experience with the rear biased setup?

  7. #31
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    It is easy to lose it if you are pushing 10/10 with a FWD "oversteery" setup. I had that on the track once, when I thought, oversteer should be good. When I had to slightly reduce the throttle (not total lift off) to stop understeering when I entered a corner too hot, it would go straight to oversteer with no neutral steering to keep the car happy. Needless to say, I changed it back to a more neutral setup the next time I went to track.
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    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  8. #32
    What was your setup aaronng? Maybe you should have tried the handbrake instead of less throttle

    Even the stiffest rear-biased setup won't snap-oversteer for no reason. If you were smooth with the throttle, the rear to front weight transfer will be smooth, and the transition from under-steer has to go through neutral-steer before over-steer. Obviously when it comes to a race-track you've got all sorts of inputs pushing your tyres god knows where. I can see how what happened to you could happen over a small bump. Can't blame driver balance issues on the setup! Unless of course your setup was 400/1000 with a fatty rear swaybar in which case you've done it horrible wrong

    I guess you've uncovered the problem with a loose fwd setup like this - you have to dedicate to the corner because there's not many inputs you can give to slow you down without causing major over-steer. This is why you shouldn't drive fast on the streets!!
    Last edited by string; 08-06-2008 at 09:22 PM.

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