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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    '09 VTR250

    X Brace - How to correctly install & reviews?

    Hi All,

    Just purchased and installed a TDM Cross Brace.

    It was a very very tight fit, installing it by yourself would be pretty difficult.

    What i was wondering is, i've never come across a brace that was so difficult to install, is it normal for Cross Braces to be this difficult?

    Although, after the install, you can definately feel the difference. The rear is so predictable, sure a little rigid and stiff, but better than a unpredictable rear end.

    Couldn't keep my rear strut brace, but was able to keep my C-Pillar Brace.

    The main thing that really annoys me is the creaking and squeaking, even when rolling slowly to a stop it creaks and squeaks. Those who have one installed, did you remove the rear trim completely or trim a large hole around the mounting plates on the rear struts?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanx!

    Chris
    '09 VTR250

  2. #2
    midori Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    south west!
    Car:
    EK4
    with mine it was a bitch to install too.. just really where you have to rotate the 4 points to get the bar in all right!

    i cut a whole in my trim since i've had the hole for my strut before anyways.

    i noticed it creaks more coming to un even roads. but when i have my rear seats in.. they creak less as the seats are pushed up against the bar itself.

    yeah handling wise feels very tight around the corners.

    not a bad buy i would say.

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Doncaster, Melbourne
    Car:
    ES1 Turbo, EK1
    wats is a cross brace?? where does it go?? ive never heard of it.

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Bangbus
    A cross brace is like two strut bars in the shape of a big "X", it mounts to the rear suspension struts and the c-pillars.

    Like so:
    Last edited by geeang; 13-07-2008 at 10:36 AM.


  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Doncaster, Melbourne
    Car:
    ES1 Turbo, EK1
    oh ok.

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Melbourne, Mitcham
    Car:
    EG3
    now all you need is a 22mm white line sway and you'll be in for a world of creaks and squeaks from the rear.
    Why hello there

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    treasury casino
    Car:
    150 bus
    ive been wondering for a while, i got JIC strut bar at the back and was going to get J's racing c pillar or JIC if i can find~ will it do the same amount~or is it better to just get the x brace~ive always wondered lol

  8. #8
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    To reduce the creaking, spray a layer of PTFE/Teflon grease on the area where the brace touches the chassis before you install it.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Inner West
    Car:
    Rachel & Renee
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronng View Post
    To reduce the creaking, spray a layer of PTFE/Teflon grease on the area where the brace touches the chassis before you install it.
    ahh thats very smart ive never thought of that! where can we buy this stuff frmo bunnings should have it yeah?
    Coup De Grace / Rachel

    Built by Backyard Performance
    JDMyard / Autobarn Bankstown / Accurate Brake and Clutch Lidcombe / Performance Exhaust Northmead

  10. #10
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by rayb3na_ View Post
    ahh thats very smart ive never thought of that! where can we buy this stuff frmo bunnings should have it yeah?
    Yup, from Bunnings. It comes in a slim dark green can with a black cover. I think that's the one. Not cheap though, around $17. So get a few guys to chip in and spray that shit on. It's better than WD40 because you don't get that oily film which leaks out as you drive the car. A cheaper alternative is spray on lithium grease. Thinking about it now, lithium grease should work better. Get the one in the light blue can, also from Bunnings. It's worth it because with the lithium grease, you can use it lube up other parts of your car, including on the battery terminal to stop the green powdery corrosion, without having to worry about it damaging plastic parts like WD40 does.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  11. #11
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    EK4
    It was a headache to install the X-bar as i was trying to put my B to C pillar bar, C-pillar bar and seat belt on together. I thought that i would be easier if you just put the X-bar on alone.

    Quote Originally Posted by hisoka View Post
    ive been wondering for a while, i got JIC strut bar at the back and was going to get J's racing c pillar or JIC if i can find~ will it do the same amount~or is it better to just get the x brace~ive always wondered lol
    I had the same setup as you mention above. Now i only have the X-bar and without the rear strut, trust me, X-bar alone is much more better than C-pillar bar+rear strut in term of handling and blingiing.
    You may still get the C-pillar bar and get the X-bar later on, it will be more rice IMO but i doubt if you can still put the JIC rear strut on while X-bar is there
    Last edited by 929; 13-07-2008 at 01:28 PM.

  12. #12
    I've tried to put my j's racing c pillar in with the xbar it was hard.
    i went to try and find a longer bolt but nowhere to be bought.
    so i just put the xbar in alone but it is possible to join the c with the x.
    friends done it.

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