Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 25 to 36 of 38
  1. #25
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Kermit K20A
    I use Wurth, but they all do the same
    Kermit EGK20A
    Winton: 1:35.08
    Wakefield: 1:08.8

  2. #26
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Car:
    98 Integra GSi
    Quote Originally Posted by cbauto View Post
    Any particular brand flush additive?
    I've used Nulon before (http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Eng.../#.U3CAYShdBq4). But thinking of trying Liqui Moly (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...156709#Reviews).

  3. #27
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R
    I use Liquid Moly. Even engine treatment.

    Used it 4 times already. Pretty happy with the product.

  4. #28
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Brissy
    Car:
    DC5 Type R
    Since most engine wear occurs when the engine is cold (first minutes after starting) I use a 5W oil.
    At the moment I'm running Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40. But the 5W-30 would probably be a tad better (costs more too).
    Both are within Honda's specs.

  5. #29
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R
    Quote Originally Posted by 02DC5R View Post
    Since most engine wear occurs when the engine is cold (first minutes after starting) I use a 5W oil.
    At the moment I'm running Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40. But the 5W-30 would probably be a tad better (costs more too).
    Both are within Honda's specs.
    I hope you arent giving your car a hard time.

    Cos them oils you have mentioned aren't in the K20 specs. Too thin.

  6. #30
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Brissy
    Car:
    DC5 Type R
    OK, I have to admit. Sometimes I thrash her a little. I've even been known to bounce her off the rev limiter

    But seriously, check out the workshop or owners manual (page 192). 0W-30 to 15W-40 and everything in between is within Honda's recommended specs. You pick depending on ambient temperatures.
    I know you know this. But for those that don't.... that first number before the W is the viscosity at low temp on start up.
    That's in the morning, when she's been sitting overnight and the engine is stone cold. Most of the oil has trickled down to the sump overnight. And there is only a very thin layer clinging to the moving parts. That's when they say most engine wear takes place. That's when I want the oil to flow as fast as possible, and protect the engine in those first few minutes as she's warming up. That's why I pick 5W. I can even see the sense in going down to 0W if you live in a cold place (this would be overkill in Brissy).
    3 minutes after start-up, she's at normal operating temperature. That's when the second number kicks in. 30 or 40 or whatever you run. Both 30 & 40 as a second number offer pretty good protection at normal operating temps for this type of engine. At normal operating temps the oil pump is providing a healthy film of fast flowing oil, and those metal parts are gliding over each other with little to no contact.

    That's why I run 5W40, but would probably (happily) run 5W30.

  7. #31
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R
    Quote Originally Posted by 02DC5R View Post
    OK, I have to admit. Sometimes I thrash her a little. I've even been known to bounce her off the rev limiter

    But seriously, check out the workshop or owners manual (page 192). 0W-30 to 15W-40 and everything in between is within Honda's recommended specs. You pick depending on ambient temperatures.
    I know you know this. But for those that don't.... that first number before the W is the viscosity at low temp on start up.
    That's in the morning, when she's been sitting overnight and the engine is stone cold. Most of the oil has trickled down to the sump overnight. And there is only a very thin layer clinging to the moving parts. That's when they say most engine wear takes place. That's when I want the oil to flow as fast as possible, and protect the engine in those first few minutes as she's warming up. That's why I pick 5W. I can even see the sense in going down to 0W if you live in a cold place (this would be overkill in Brissy).
    3 minutes after start-up, she's at normal operating temperature. That's when the second number kicks in. 30 or 40 or whatever you run. Both 30 & 40 as a second number offer pretty good protection at normal operating temps for this type of engine. At normal operating temps the oil pump is providing a healthy film of fast flowing oil, and those metal parts are gliding over each other with little to no contact.

    That's why I run 5W40, but would probably (happily) run 5W30.
    This maybe fine when the engine is new. Not worn by 12 years of love .

    As she gets older, story changes abit. Pretty sure you agree.

    Also picking your oil in australia based on ambient temp is not that important. Please try test this yourself. Cos I've, No real start up issue found going in between 5w - 10w - 15w. Only just that 5 comes up to operating temp fastest. My engine which has 207,xxx KM feels alot better on 15w-70 penrite then on purple royal 5w-30, Comes up to operating temp within 2-3 minutes or of granny driving. From memory wasn't factory recommended 10w-30.

    Must pick oil based on your engines condition. Thicker oil maybe required in engines that have a few more k's.
    Last edited by amant02; 13-08-2014 at 02:37 AM.

  8. #32
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    P1.5 460F/350R
    using thicker oil based on kms travelled alone sounds ignorant lol
    S P A M | W O R K S
    With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre

  9. #33
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    www.alibaba.com
    Car:
    porsche boxster
    I would never use 70 in honda

  10. #34
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    hehe
    Car:
    hehe
    Quote Originally Posted by mocchi View Post
    using thicker oil based on kms travelled alone sounds ignorant lol
    Quote Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T View Post
    I would never use 70 in honda
    Amant r u ok
    Last edited by renzokukenj; Today at 12:34 AM. Reason: hehe

  11. #35
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Brissy
    Car:
    DC5 Type R
    You have a good point. Engine condition and wear should definitely be taken into account when you select an oil.
    And allot of people go thicker as engines get more miles on them.

    I can't always hear or feel the difference between synthetic oils (I can't hear or feel the difference between running a 5W40 and 10W30).
    So I rely on the specs from the manufacturer's, and what other people are saying.

    But I am told the cheaper mineral based oils (say a cheap and nasty 20W40 Kmart brand $8 for 4 litres ) can make some engines quieter.
    But this isn't necessarily a good thing (drowning the moving parts in thick ooze is not necessarily good lubrication).

  12. #36
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Brissy
    Car:
    DC5 Type R
    Quote Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T View Post
    I would never use 70 in honda
    I thought the Penrite 70W oil was designed for tappet and pushrod 1970s V8s
    Didn't know they made a 15W70. If I had a 351 Ford XC Cobra V8, that's the oil I'd be running !

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.1.3


Terms and Conditions
Ozhonda.com is in no way affiliated with the Honda motor company or Honda Australia in anyway whatsoever.