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  1. #49
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    australia
    Car:
    nsx
    so if I'm looking at suspension stuff, and it says dc2, that's for my teg right?

    DC2 (VTiR) and DC4 (GSi) are basically the same except the engine and a few other extra correct?
    I'd rather walk way from something saying "that was too hard" than walk away saying "that was too easy"
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  2. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by GreekWarrior View Post
    so if I'm looking at suspension stuff, and it says dc2, that's for my teg right?

    DC2 (VTiR) and DC4 (GSi) are basically the same except the engine and a few other extra correct?
    yea GSi is basically a DC2
    w/e a DC2 can install can also be installed to a DC4

  3. #51
    o yea did u remove your mudflaps?
    i was thinking of doin it but does water get collected in the rear bumper?

  4. #52
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    australia
    Car:
    nsx
    sweet


    umm my car never had mudflaps lol
    I'd rather walk way from something saying "that was too hard" than walk away saying "that was too easy"
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  5. #53
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    australia
    Car:
    nsx
    once more question lol

    for you boys that have lowered your teg's, did you have to roll the guards?
    I'd rather walk way from something saying "that was too hard" than walk away saying "that was too easy"
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  6. #54
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    MELB
    Car:
    JDM B18CR
    lowered before on king superlows (3 inch drop) with 18x7.5 (offset +45) all round on dc2... scraped on front wheels on full lock only... if you lower under 3inches, it won't scrap with 17's on them i assume...

    advise to use springs that drop only 1.5 inches and no more as your front tyres/wheels will be on angle and your inside tyre will be wasted... also you have to wear in your springs therefore it will drop lower than mentioned depending... lowering more than 1.5inches on 17's would mean to purchase a camber kit as well for front wheels... back wheels will sit straight....

  7. #55
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    MELB
    Car:
    JDM B18CR
    also don't need to roll guards on 17's as long as you don't go more than 2 inches

  8. #56
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    bb6 Type S
    i didn't have to roll the guards... youd have to full on dump it to make rolling the guards necessary

  9. #57
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    australia
    Car:
    nsx
    ah k, hmm

    I suppose, I can pretty much fit my fist between the tyre and rear wheel arch atm so I think it'd be alright if I lowered it 1.5-2 lol
    I'd rather walk way from something saying "that was too hard" than walk away saying "that was too easy"
    ***GREEK PRIDE METER***
    █████████████████████ 100%

  10. #58
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    australia
    Car:
    nsx
    Quote Originally Posted by rbk_212 View Post
    i didn't have to roll the guards... youd have to full on dump it to make rolling the guards necessary
    sweet, cause I didnt really want to aye haha
    I'd rather walk way from something saying "that was too hard" than walk away saying "that was too easy"
    ***GREEK PRIDE METER***
    █████████████████████ 100%

  11. #59
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    melbourne
    Car:
    dc2
    i lowered mine wth kings low..and it fine...2 fingrs gap...

  12. #60
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    st. marys nsw
    Car:
    88 4WS Prelude
    Har har lots of info on lowering - I want to UNlower (raise?) the suspension on my old DA3, its been lowered and it bottoms out too easily. It appears to have shorter (orange colour) springs on rear but looks like original shocks. I have a set of original rear springs, black/about which are about 120mm? longer - annoying to change cos I need spring compressors.
    My Q is about front, does it just mean winding in torsion bar adjusting screws, if so how much? I've tried 3-4 full turns on each but it hasn't made a noticeable difference.

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