NEW 2009 Euro Luxury Auto Pinging

[Irving]

Here it is. the document from Honda.
Another reason I will be filling with GF5 (SN rated) 0W20 at my next fill.

Attachment 24144

*Please download this document if you wish, as I will have to remove it due to space constraints.

[Irving]

Next to the oil, the filter plays a major role in helping lubricate your engine. The filter as we know, helps keep the oil clean for longer. The filter medium must separate and trap particles and debris carried by the oil as it travels through it.
An oil filter has 3 major components: Filter medium, anti drainback valve and the bypass valve.

In normal operation, the oil is pumped via the filter medium.
If the oil is too thick (high viscosity) or the filter medium is clogged, the oil is pumped via the bypass valve and the engine continues to receive unfiltered oil.
The anti drainback valve keeps the filter primed and allows faster lubrication of the engine when the car is started. In the K24Z engine, the oil filter is positioned vertically upwards and a full store of oil is held in the filter at all times.

I went out and purchased a Honda oil filter and also a generic oil filter. The generic filter from my local auto shop cost less than half price (GBP 5.00) of the Honda filter which cost GBP11.30 inc tax.

Visually, the generic filter (on the right) looks pretty good and well made. It has a good quality O ring seal (which came lubricated) and the anti drainback valve is made of good quality rubber.
Looking inside The Honda filter (on the left) the anti drainback valve seems to be made of a high quality silicone rubber compound and the there is also a difference in the type of bypass valves being used. The larger holes in the Honda filter look capable of passing more oil through them than the generic filter.

Finally, and most importantly, looking closely at the filter medium, the generic brand looks to be made of vertically pleated paper and the Honda filter medium looks to be made of a polyester-glass type material.which has a cross hatch pleated layout, which I think may have a finer filtering/better performance and a greater surface area for the trapment of more debris.

From visual appearance alone, the Honda filter looks to be made of better materials and is likely to outperform the generic brand over a greater oil /filter change interval.
So, it seems that in this case, you get what you pay for.....




I will be cutting open my old oil filter soon and will post up more details....

[Irving]

Here are some specs:

Castrol Magnatec 5W40
API SM/CF
ACEA A3/B3,A3/B4
Viscosity at 100C----13.7
Viscosity at 40C -----85.5 !!!!


Castrol Edge 5W40
API SL/CF (SL standard dates back to 2001)
ACEA A3/B3,A3/B4
Viscosity at 100C ----14
Viscosity at 40C -----85 !!!!

These are high viscosity numbers compared to the Mobil 1 data previously listed (especially at cold temperatures).

Consider this:
Driving down the Hume Hwy, the ambient temperature can be less than 10C even during summer. The CU2 coasts effortlessly, in 6th gear and the oil cools due to the low ambient temperature and the low load. Then we hit a hill or slight incline and the PCS is heard as the engine rpms are increased as a lower gear is selected (now we are approaching peak torque). Result PCS. Sounds plausible? Most certainly!

Even at ‘normal operating’ oil temperature I have observed persistent PCS with the Honda dealership oil. So, what oil were they using?
Obviously, it wasn't the correct oil....

[Irving]

So, here it is.... Amsoil 0W20 GF5 SN rated oil, which I put into my engine today.

Why did I choose Amsoil 0W20?

* 100% Synthetic. There is no word play, and any attempt to pass off hydrocracked mineral oil as synthetic oil.
* Extended drain interval of 25,000 miles or one year.
* GF5 (group 5), SN rated oil.
* Only GBP 10.00 more per oil fill than Mobil 1 0W30 ESP.



I will be testing this oil fully over the next few days and will post my findings.

Also, I will be cutting open the old oil filter tomorrow....

[BigBen]

So, here it is.... Amsoil 0W20 GF5 SN rated oil, which I put into my engine today.

Why did I choose Amsoil 0W20?

* 100% Synthetic. There is no word play, and any attempt to pass off hydrocracked mineral oil as synthetic oil.
* Extended drain interval of 25,000 miles or one year.
* GF5 (group 5), SN rated oil.
* Only GBP 10.00 more per oil fill than Mobil 1 0W30 ESP.



I will be testing this oil fully over the next few days and will post my findings.

Also, I will be cutting open the old oil filter tomorrow....

You'll love the free reving feel once you use the Amsoil 0w-20. Just makes the car more willing to revs.

[Irving]

You'll love the free reving feel once you use the Amsoil 0w-20. Just makes the car more willing to revs.

I couldn't agree more!

At startup (mild morning 6C) the oil pressure light was out in less than half a second! (most of the wear happens at startup).

Smooth revving, quieter and the engine seems more willing.
You get the feeling that this engine may be a rotary but not quite (having driven a turbo rotary RX7)! Yet, very smooth and easy revving.
The car feels less weighty and picks up (accelerates) more quickly.
There was also a noticeable difference in the fuel bar graph (a couple of bars less).

[Irving]

The oil was changed after 11 months - 8,000kms. There was no sludge, debris, or any particles whatsoever found. The old oil was Mobil 1 0W30 ESP.

The filter was cut open carefully using an angle grinder. No grinder dust was allowed to enter the inside of the filter.



The filter core was allowed to drain naturally, and inspected closely.
We can see the cross hatch - saw tooth pleated polyester/glass filter media. This pattern seems to have more surface area for the filtration of the oil compared to a vertically pleated media.



Close visual inspection showed no visible particles, debris, metal shavings or sludge.
I ran a magnetic screwdriver along the crease of the pleats and found no metal filings or any other debris.

So, it seems that the oil has done a good job in protecting the engine.

[Mambo]

Hey Guys, I was actually researching about mod to my euro and stumbled upon this thread. some interesting read on the pinging.
I own a built 2008, but 2009 complaint Luxury auto Euro bought new on June 2009. I never had any pinging issue and its done 70,000kms so far. always used 95octane and above fuel from all/any company. serviced at honda when due, still running on original Michelins (noisy tyres :-0). besides servicing the car, never needed any fix or etc.. did change the speakers once under warranty. always drove hard and did a few long drives interstate, never ever heard any pinging ever and drives smooth as... and still drives great (need new tyres now).

filled my euro with united 100 octane for a year when I found out about it and the car transformed into a beast, noticed about 20% more power and more mileage. not too sure on the 20%, but the kick i got from 100 octane fuel was real and the take off was super and putting it on S drive and using the paddle shifters was always a joy on 100 octane. Unfortunately United stopped selling 100 Octane a few months ago in Sydney and since then I switched to Caltex 98 Vortex and drive great, not as great as the United's 100 octane but its decent on power n etc.

sorry to side track, thought to input my findings on the fuels used.
anyways.. i have never had any pinging problem and the car is smooth as and quiet as, except for the tyres now which needs a change.
I hope the pinging problem on those affected cars are fixed and sorted. 95~98 octane fuel is not much of a diff in price, so i suggest to fill the euros up with 98 octane for better mileage and power delivery, just my 2 cents worth.

cheers

[Splashalot]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread.

I am looking at buying a CU2 manual Luxury and am wondering if there is a certain model year where the pinging and/or PCS was cured. That is, from the factory rather than the dealer? Am currently looking at MY2011, 12 and 13. I assume these are all affected?


Some very interesting reading here re. 0-20 GF5 oil. Thanks to all contributors for the info.

[Fredoops]

my09 my10 had the issue, it was fixed.

[Splashalot]

Many thanks. Sounds like I can buy a MY11 onwards with confidence.

[Fredoops]

Use a 0w30 oil.

Penrite hpr 0 0w30.