Post up ur audio setups in your jazz

[redmugenjazz]

Hey, i'm thinking of installing a stereo system on my jazz. Could i get some suggestions/pikies from all those jazz enthusiasts out there.

[dyljoy]

bro, u can visit the site i show here below, they all talking about jazz and have a audio section for your aiming to, cheers
http://www.ausjazz.org/forum/index.php

[redmugenjazz]

thanks yo

[kelvinthai]

yeah sound proof the car. Make a big difference.. and change those paper cup speakers..

[redmugenjazz]

btw, do i need new pods for the woffers in the front doors? if so where can i find some

[4thGenExi]

Soundproof the complete and utter fercuck out of the car, the panels are wafer thin. Don't be put off by the integrated headunit, Honda actually make a factory double DIN trim kit, and most reputable car audio outlets would be able to get their hands on one for you. If you want to install amps, you have 2 options: under the back seats or in the boot as there's zero room under the driver or passenger seat.

The front doors accept most 6.5in splits, depth is not an issue. I would mount tweeters in those little windows below the A pillars, if you want to make it look nice you can just put limo tint on the window glass and build a custom pod.

I would not put anything larger than a single 10inch sub in a Jazz, cos it's a tiny car. If you don't want to modify the spare tyre well, then a single 10 in a prefab box sitting in the boot would sound very nice.

(btw I have an '07 Jazz and was planning on doing all of this, except the girlfriend would amputate something if I went and blew another 6k on a stereo)

[dyljoy]

Good advice here, 4tGenExi. do u think let's do the soundproof outside or DIY? what budget would we looking at?

[redmugenjazz]

yea, good point 4thgenexi, i'm thinking sticking a 4 ch amp and monoblock in the spare tyre compartment cause dats the only place where it won't be treaded on by passengers.lol. The double din already cost 200 and if i do get it i have to fork out 500ish for a new HU. so i';m planning splits and amp for now (500 each), sub, hu and monoblock later. For soundproofing, i'm a cheap uni student so i go DIY and save $$$ for the stereo.
Btw, should i run the sub off the 2 ch ( from a 4 ch amp) bridged and save the other 2 for the splits or buy a 2 ch amp for splits and monoblock for sub.

[dyljoy]

I will go for plan B, 2 ch amp for splits and monoblock for sub, if you want even better SQ, i will suggest 4 ch amp for splits, coz it will use each ch to support each tweeter and mid bass, but it is ur own decision to made. GL with great mod on your personal entertainment, bro

[4thGenExi]

What you're talking about dyljoy is going active instead of passive amplification on the splits. For car audio applications I see no real tangible benefit in doing this, most crossovers on splits these days are more than adequate. For home hifi, yes active approach works very well. What I did in my last system was use 2x 2 channel amps bridged, one to run each front door. Still ran in passive mode but each woofer/tweeter was receiving about 400w RMS. I'd recommend feeding splits more power passively instead of going active.

If you want to get the doors professionally sound deadened, most places use Stinger roadkill or Dynamat/Tacmat products (or a combination of both if you're going all out). For front doors only, it'll probably be at least $300-$400 including labour. Only DIY if you know exactly what you're doing and how to get the door skins off, there's quite a bit of wiring to work around.

Btw, should i run the sub off the 2 ch ( from a 4 ch amp) bridged and save the other 2 for the splits or buy a 2 ch amp for splits and monoblock for sub.

What you first suggested is ideal - 4ch amp running sub and front splits. Having 2 separate amps means extra wiring costs (RCA leads/power cable/another fuse/mounting the 2nd amp - it all adds up).

It gets a bit expensive modding the stereo in a Jazz, but the results would be worth it. And yeah those double DIN trim kits cost a few hundred dollars. Headunits however, are almost stupid value for money. $400 can get you a decent brand (Alpine/Eclipse), 3 preouts, extensive tuning capabilities and full iPOD control.

[dyljoy]

ok, I may do the soundproof by myself, save heaps of money. and do u think do it before update the speaker or do it at the same time?

[dyljoy]

Good point, bro. and not only cost more $$ to run 2 amp, but also use 1 amp would save space for small car like jazz.

What you're talking about dyljoy is going active instead of passive amplification on the splits. For car audio applications I see no real tangible benefit in doing this, most crossovers on splits these days are more than adequate. For home hifi, yes active approach works very well. What I did in my last system was use 2x 2 channel amps bridged, one to run each front door. Still ran in passive mode but each woofer/tweeter was receiving about 400w RMS. I'd recommend feeding splits more power passively instead of going active.

If you want to get the doors professionally sound deadened, most places use Stinger roadkill or Dynamat/Tacmat products (or a combination of both if you're going all out). For front doors only, it'll probably be at least $300-$400 including labour. Only DIY if you know exactly what you're doing and how to get the door skins off, there's quite a bit of wiring to work around.




What you first suggested is ideal - 4ch amp running sub and front splits. Having 2 separate amps means extra wiring costs (RCA leads/power cable/another fuse/mounting the 2nd amp - it all adds up).

It gets a bit expensive modding the stereo in a Jazz, but the results would be worth it. And yeah those double DIN trim kits cost a few hundred dollars. Headunits however, are almost stupid value for money. $400 can get you a decent brand (Alpine/Eclipse), 3 preouts, extensive tuning capabilities and full iPOD control.