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 Originally Posted by sodaz
By the way, do you know approx how much power a manual euro produces at the wheels on a dyno dynamics dyno? I know the auto euro is a few KW down but I had to get it cause my misses hates driving stick.
Well, mine pulled 112.6kw on Dyno Dynamics when my car had 3000kms on it with the current mods.
| cusco strut brace : toda headers : metal cat : fujitsubo legalisR : comptech SS : mugen visors : mugen CF airbox : euroR badges : custom 3M floor mats |
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 Originally Posted by E-Gene
Well, mine pulled 112.6kw on Dyno Dynamics when my car had 3000kms on it with the current mods.
Hmm...my guess is that the manual makes around 105kw atw and the auto makes around 95kw atw stock.
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 Originally Posted by aaronng
I'll also be interested in the cost of installing your parts as well. I want to get an LSD installed.
install cost from $250-300 for flywheel and clutch and LSD will cost extra. K20A final drive will fit in K24A but has some issues after a while.
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Newbie asking about exhaust
 Originally Posted by aaronng
But for most of us, even finding $1000 to put into the car is a big ask. That's why we do I/H/E first. You can do each one at a time.
What is I/H/E? I'm a newbie to tuning and not mechanically inclined, but I would appreciate suggestions on what to consider and how much to spend if I wanted my 04 Euro to sound really good. What's involved? Does it mean simply replacing the mufflers to something like Fujitsubo?
Also, from the discussion around headers, I think I'll give this a miss for a 10kw gain.
Thanks.
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 Originally Posted by joecris
What is I/H/E? I'm a newbie to tuning and not mechanically inclined, but I would appreciate suggestions on what to consider and how much to spend if I wanted my 04 Euro to sound really good. What's involved? Does it mean simply replacing the mufflers to something like Fujitsubo?
Thanks.
Intake/Headers/Exhaust
| cusco strut brace : toda headers : metal cat : fujitsubo legalisR : comptech SS : mugen visors : mugen CF airbox : euroR badges : custom 3M floor mats |
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 Originally Posted by sodaz
Hmm...my guess is that the manual makes around 105kw atw and the auto makes around 95kw atw stock.
My stock auto made 111.8kw atw on a dyno dynamics in summer. It was certainly the highest auto stock figure I've seen but all other cars on the day did normal figures that matched the mods so I don't believe the dyno was "off".
I still think the auto is under rated. It's no track demon but to most speeds on normal roads they do pretty good.
Jazz: stock, K&N panel filter.
120 Series Prado GXL Petrol: Pacemaker extractors, Dual 2 1/4" exhaust, 70 series MT STZ's, ARB non-winch bullbar, snorkel, Dimpled and slotted rotors.
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 Originally Posted by BiLL|z0r
My stock auto made 111.8kw atw on a dyno dynamics in summer. It was certainly the highest auto stock figure I've seen but all other cars on the day did normal figures that matched the mods so I don't believe the dyno was "off".
I still think the auto is under rated. It's no track demon but to most speeds on normal roads they do pretty good.
Were there any stock DC5Rs or S2000s on that dyno day as well? That would give us a good relative indication of how underrated the auto is.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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 Originally Posted by joecris
What is I/H/E? I'm a newbie to tuning and not mechanically inclined, but I would appreciate suggestions on what to consider and how much to spend if I wanted my 04 Euro to sound really good. What's involved? Does it mean simply replacing the mufflers to something like Fujitsubo?
Also, from the discussion around headers, I think I'll give this a miss for a 10kw gain.
Thanks.
If you want sound, you can have it loud all the time or loud only when you apply full throttle. If you want it loud all the time, change the exhaust (cat back would be nicest). If you want it loud only at full throttle, go CAI or SRI.
BTW, it is not about peak power gains. If you look at the dyno, it's definite gains throughout the RPM range. This is better than what a Hondata reflash gives you!
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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why would you want noise without power?? rice....
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 Originally Posted by aaronng
Were there any stock DC5Rs or S2000s on that dyno day as well? That would give us a good relative indication of how underrated the auto is.
There was at least S2000 anjd a couple DC5R's but can't remember the figures. They'll be in the Past events QLD Dyno day thread. I'll have a look when I get a sec.
On the thread side, will the toda's fit an auto as I recall Hondata needed a slight change for their headers on an auto (hence more delay)?
Jazz: stock, K&N panel filter.
120 Series Prado GXL Petrol: Pacemaker extractors, Dual 2 1/4" exhaust, 70 series MT STZ's, ARB non-winch bullbar, snorkel, Dimpled and slotted rotors.
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 Originally Posted by BiLL|z0r
There was at least S2000 anjd a couple DC5R's but can't remember the figures. They'll be in the Past events QLD Dyno day thread. I'll have a look when I get a sec.
On the thread side, will the toda's fit an auto as I recall Hondata needed a slight change for their headers on an auto (hence more delay)?
The JTune headers were custom made with custom flange locations, cat length and exhaust length (hence their headers being not compatible with aftermarket or stock systems).
The other aftermarket headers from the US fit both manual and auto, so I don't think the Toda will have fitment issues with the auto. The difference with the auto is an additional vibration damper located somewhere around the subframe.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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 Originally Posted by BiLL|z0r
My stock auto made 111.8kw atw on a dyno dynamics in summer. It was certainly the highest auto stock figure I've seen but all other cars on the day did normal figures that matched the mods so I don't believe the dyno was "off".
I still think the auto is under rated. It's no track demon but to most speeds on normal roads they do pretty good.
I've driven both the auto and manual Euro and in stock form the manual is definitely faster than the auto. The manual loses less power & torque through the drive train and has better gearing.
What gear did you use for the dyno btw?
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