Havent started sound deadening my car yet... so just living with it..... got a box of dynamat extreme and a piece of dynamat extremeliner for the car already. Also got a piece of insuflex for the door. Thinking maybe getting a can of Cascade Quietkote to spary the door panel before sticking the insuflex.
Perhaps one of those engine vibration absorbers would help (those shock absorbers that you connect from the engine to the chassis)
^ yeah thats the one. If they magnify the vibrations, why use them?
It's to stop engine movement to reduce wheel hop. Like solid engine mounts. Total opposite of what you want to use it for.
On my Euro, it makes such a vibration that when the A/C comes on at idle, it sounds like a dying diesel engine. BTW, coming to wakefield on saturday?
It's to stop engine movement to reduce wheel hop. Like solid engine mounts. Total opposite of what you want to use it for.
On my Euro, it makes such a vibration that when the A/C comes on at idle, it sounds like a dying diesel engine. BTW, coming to wakefield on saturday?
My one got vibration noise from the left front window (especially when going over small bumps like the patches on the road cracks), sounds like the glass is not securely positioned. Weird thing is that the noise disappears when I wine down the window just a little bit. Maybe I am just too fussy or maybe the engin is just too damn quite.
Also got a question about running-in, not sure if I should ask here or start another thread.
Both euro and this forum is new to me, so solute to seniors!
When I first installed my Icebox I gained some vibration at around the 2KRPM mark. Several months later, I re-tightened the screws around the box (which originally didn't fit perfectly) and now the noise is gone entirely.
I suspect that prior to this the airbox had been sucking air in from a corner of the box itself.
Since sealing the airbox properly, the setup is much quieter in all aspects of operation now (not just NVH). There is also much better low-down torque available. I can actually drive the car around in 4th gear at low speeds without any dramas whatsoever (only if I'm lazy or something else is going on in the car).
2007 Euro Luxury Sat-Nav 6MT
Nighthawk Black, Black leather
Full body-kit & spoiler, Silver interior upgrade, Multimedia player, Stainless Steel door trims
Comptech Icebox, Whiteline swaybar
Thanks aaronng! always thought it's the engin that needs the run-in.
The dealer told me to avoid staying on one gear or use cruise control on highways. is this for the sake of gear box or engin? If for the engin, wouldn't the idle warming up be bad as well then, since the RPM stays the same when idle? mine is 600k now, is it too late to run hard to sit the ring properly? kinda did one long run on highway for about 40 mins on pretty much the 6th gear (it's just hard to use anything lower than 5th gear with 120k/h speed limit). how bad would it be?
decided on euro when the dealer hit VTEC during the test drive. just sounds sweet,looking forward to hitting the red line
Thanks aaronng! always thought it's the engin that needs the run-in.
The dealer told me to avoid staying on one gear or use cruise control on highways. is this for the sake of gear box or engin? If for the engin, wouldn't the idle warming up be bad as well then, since the RPM stays the same when idle? mine is 600k now, is it too late to run hard to sit the ring properly? kinda did one long run on highway for about 40 mins on pretty much the 6th gear (it's just hard to use anything lower than 5th gear with 120k/h speed limit). how bad would it be?
decided on euro when the dealer hit VTEC during the test drive. just sounds sweet,looking forward to hitting the red line
I just let it idle for about 30 seconds before driving off gently. For a new car, try to avoid driving on the highway for the first 100-200km if possible. What's done is done. Just keep monitoring your oil consumption every month.
Originally Posted by tron07
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