Engine Oil

[aaronng]

Well the fact that it was done by a 3rd party, and wasn't on a specific product does it for me. It surely wasn't a marketing ploy.

They did the same test in a controlled environment, so to me that proves which oils are on top of what. If you choose not to believe them, don't. I have been using these types of oil, trying the 'good' ones that have been tested - and they are awsome.

Try the "bad" ones as well (make sure they are the correct viscosity for your engine), you'll be surprised.
I'm saying this because there are many of these 3rd party comparison tests that are carried out using the wrong method that in the end present information that is not relevant to engine lubrication. Just like that oil test article from the Holden forum. The test method they used was for gear oil, but they applied it to engine oil instead, which doesn't return meaningful information because the method that friction is generated in an engine is different to that in a gearbox.

[Sp00ny]

Well the fact that it was done by a 3rd party, and wasn't on a specific product does it for me. It surely wasn't a marketing ploy.

They did the same test in a controlled environment, so to me that proves which oils are on top of what. If you choose not to believe them, don't. I have been using these types of oil, trying the 'good' ones that have been tested - and they are awsome.

Adding a quick word to aaronng's comments.

Not trying to start a riot here, but how do you come to your conclusion that the oils are "awesome"? I mean I know people that have only run OEM mineral in (10k service intervals) and after 300,000kms there cars still run well and show well under compression tests. Even when i made the comment about the FUCHS oil its only based on colour, burning volume, engine noise and torque band. Even that isnt really enough to prove the oil is that great.

What aaronng is trying to say is that if the tests were conducted in a way that is irrelevent or not well suited to the use of engine oil then the data gathered is inconclusive at the very least.

Important Note: Just because they are the 3rd party doesnt exclude them from bias. A motor vehicle magazines opinions or conclusions are most likely going to have an effect on an audience, otherwise what would be the point of even publishing it? Thus attracting attention of Motor Oil Companies, there is no proof to say that penrite didnt pay them or financially support their research, thus the possibility of bias exists.

BTW, My self and 2 other friends have tried penrite oil in gearbox's and although it is a gearbox and not engine, i can tell you their Transmission products are absolute garbage. All of us experienced very noticable notching in third/second and stiffer changing all around. The gear changes were horrible at high rpm. My transmission seemed to be in better condition so the notching was rare but stiff changing was always there. And the absolute inability to cope with wide temperature ranges. We replaced it with OEM MTF mineral oil and havnt looked back, smooth gear changes and no notching whatsoever. One used a Mineral Based Penrite oil and other two were using the "SIN" synthetic transmission oil and they were both the same viscosity. I find it hard to believe that the quality of Penrite's transmission oils and Engine oils would differ greatly if even at all.

Kind Regards,
Andrew

[kikxz]

i use Penrite HPR 15 semi-synthetic and it runs nicely in my LS but you can tell the difference when its almost time to service

[slidetaker]

Look at it on a case-by-case basis. Example, Castrol Edge 5w-30 is hydrocracked, but the Edge 0w-40 is PAO. Both say fully synthetic.

Where can I obtain that information? Is that on a website somewhere?

The same goes for the "recent words that Catrol and Mobil have switched to Group 3 instead of PAO for their Fully Synthetic range"....anyone knows the sources for this???

[aaronng]

Nope, Castrol will only tell you if you ask them. Some guys on the Ducati forum called up Castrol and confirmed that 5w-30 is Group 3, while 0w-40 is Group 4.

[EGJOE]

Hey guys
So is it better to use say like castrol edge 5w-30 and change every 5000 or
Use like royal purple or motul 300v (double ester based) and do every 10,000?

Cheers
EGJOE

[AzKik-R]

If you wanna see something awesome then check out Pro-Ma MBL8, mix it with any oil you like. it coats everything with micro particles of brass and copper, which are metals, but they are metalic lubricants. Has anyone heard of it? or is anyone using it?
there's a demo video online somewhere which shows the friction tests.

[EG30]

Hey guys
So is it better to use say like castrol edge 5w-30 and change every 5000 or
Use like royal purple or motul 300v (double ester based) and do every 10,000?

Cheers
EGJOE

The Castrol Edge 5w30 is my fav oil when cost is taken into consideration, it's discounted 2-3 times a year at supercheap auto and I've seen them as cheap as $29.95 which makes it a real steal.

It's marketed as the softec 5w-30 in North American markets as a cheap synthetic and on engine oil forums ppl often debate if this is a real synthetic oil since it's group 3 mineral based oil hydrocracked etc....

Compared to its bigger brother the Edge 0w-40, apart from the viscosity diff and the group 3 vs group 4 PAO category diff; the 0w40 qualifies as a longlife oil for many European car spec where the service intervals varies and could be as long as 28000km-35000km between oil changes. In the Case of M-Benz the long life spec is 229.5 and under Castrol's banner it's the SLX 0w-40, the edge 0w40 doesnt advertise to meet 229.5 but if you read the spec sheet it says it closely relates to the SLX 0w40. Whether they put the same oil under different containers and market them differently I don't know.

If you change your oil every 5000kms and buy a cheaper non long life/non exotic brand it's a very smart move.

I had the Castrol 5w30 in my AMG Merc for 8150kms and had an oil analysis done and it was spot on, and another one at 13000kms and it was much the same and I changed it anyway. Factory drain intervals are 15000kms for my car. The engine is defintaly more response and more economical compared to the more $$$ 0W40 I had in the car before. Mind you the car has a big 7L sump, and with 385Nm of torque in an automatic car I hardly have to rev it past 3K in everyday driving; thus hardly killing the oil at all times.

[EGJOE]

Thanks EG30 good info

[neut]

can someone come up with a final conclusion to this thread? what oil we should use etc etc and what brand =___='; lol

[slidetaker]

can someone come up with a final conclusion to this thread? what oil we should use etc etc and what brand =___='; lol

Depends on application, what car, mileage, driving style, OCI (oil change interval).

However, general speaking for average joe, Castrol Edge 5w30 seems to be the bang for buck in this forum.

[aaronng]

can someone come up with a final conclusion to this thread? what oil we should use etc etc and what brand =___='; lol

If you change your oil every 5000km, Honda FEO because of the sub $30 price. If you change your oil every 10,000km/6 months, Castrol Edge 5w-30 for $50, because FEO doesn't seem to last even 8000km (engine becomes rough).