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  1. #25
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Brisbane Northside yo
    Car:
    B18 EG hatch
    sorry for bringin up this ol thread.
    And thanks saxophonias for the link

    Ive been under my teg all day trying to raise my teg cos i got defected lol.

    Ive managed to raise 3/4 struts....
    However i had to leave my back right as i couldnt get it loose.
    I have loosend the black lock nut and removed the entire lower control arm. I have spray with WD40 and i still cant get the lower perch free.

    Im guessing it has corroded or somthing.
    I have tryed my hardest with the aid of 3 guys to hold the strut and with a strew driver thought the bottom to twist it free but it still wont move.

    Any body have any advice or suggestions on how i can undo the locked part without wrecking the threads....



    cheers
    Last edited by Vtecyo; 26-04-2009 at 08:44 PM.
    -Rep'in-

  2. #26
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    K20 DC2R
    try twisting it with a vice grip? maybe wrap a rag around it so it doesnt get damaged.

  3. #27
    wow. I guess there is rust and corrosion of foreign materials there! I think that this coilover is rust free so you need somehow to clear the place of dust etc. Try to wash the area with shampoo and water (use high pressure) and then lubricate as much as you can. If it doesn't help try to beat it with a hammer but be gentle so as not to mess it. If this won't work send these guys a post. They are very helpful.

  4. #28
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Brisbane Northside yo
    Car:
    B18 EG hatch
    well yes saxophonias it was all rusted up as i also guessed.
    They arnt too old but still had a lot of rust down in the thread
    All i did was drench it with WD40 and let it sit with some small taps up and down to try and break the lock. I had so many trys at getting it off and i was gonna try spray some cold spray to shrink the thread and heat the outer case to expand it.
    However I didnt need to do that, Just a last go with man power loosened it up.

    I was trying to prevent useing vice grips as the alloy and the thread would be damaged very easly.

    There is just a little bit of past experience incase some1 has the same problem.
    -Rep'in-

  5. #29
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ippy
    Car:
    EM1
    good stuff. gladu finallygot there.
    mine a stuckpretty bad too so i'll be soaking them in wd / inox etc before i try again.

    cheers.
    FOR SALE: Injector seal kits || Dayco B16A timing belt

  6. #30
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Melbourne E-Side
    Car:
    EM1
    how many km's have u guys had the n+ for/>
    "since we're both asian.. I'll look after you and chuck in King Springs with the wheels and tyres for $1050"

  7. #31
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    C Knee
    Car:
    Sydney Buses
    I think pictures tells a thousand words and video tells you everything...hehe...
    see the link below. It should help.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N89-Pr4jCpc
    Rep me if you think it is mechanically sound

  8. #32
    good link but his accent is torture lol... howdy hoooo

  9. #33
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Brisbane Northside yo
    Car:
    B18 EG hatch
    I have only had the N+s on my car for maybe 2 mouths. And i was told they were like 3 or 4 mouths old when i bought them...

    It was so stuck i actualy drove around on it for a day with the lock not locked down.

    The rust was on the back right. I cleaned it up as much as i could with wd40 and a wire brush.( still there but not as bad). i got a layer of wd40 on them when i did them back up. Might raise my car in a mouth or so, hope its not stuck next time..
    -Rep'in-

  10. #34
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melbourne VIC
    Car:
    EF8 (ED9 with B16A)
    Quote Originally Posted by Vtecyo View Post
    sorry for bringin up this ol thread.
    And thanks saxophonias for the link

    Ive been under my teg all day trying to raise my teg cos i got defected lol.

    Ive managed to raise 3/4 struts....
    However i had to leave my back right as i couldnt get it loose.
    I have loosend the black lock nut and removed the entire lower control arm. I have spray with WD40 and i still cant get the lower perch free.

    Im guessing it has corroded or somthing.
    I have tryed my hardest with the aid of 3 guys to hold the strut and with a strew driver thought the bottom to twist it free but it still wont move.

    Any body have any advice or suggestions on how i can undo the locked part without wrecking the threads....



    cheers
    Hey mate, i have buddy clubs racing spec dampers on my ef8 and to lower or raise you car, you shouldn't turn the black nut!
    Losen the small red nut down so you can adjust the big red nut up or down to adjust your hight and then when you have the hight you want, turn the small red nut back up to lock the big red nut in place!
    CRS3X

  11. #35
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melbourne VIC
    Car:
    EF8 (ED9 with B16A)
    you can do all this without taking any part of your coilover of your car..
    CRS3X

  12. #36
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    K20 DC2R
    Quote Originally Posted by CRSEX View Post
    Hey mate, i have buddy clubs racing spec dampers on my ef8 and to lower or raise you car, you shouldn't turn the black nut!
    Losen the small red nut down so you can adjust the big red nut up or down to adjust your hight and then when you have the hight you want, turn the small red nut back up to lock the big red nut in place!
    u can adjust it that way but then u are also changing the spring preload. its better to leave the spring preload as is and adjust the lower perch independantly. this way u also dont alter suspension travel.

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