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  1. #37
    Ninja turtle Array
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    May 2004
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    Sydney
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    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by ig3o View Post
    sorry im still abit noob at this.. which one would be a thicker oil.. higher the number or lower? 75w80 or 75w90 etc..

    and my cars done 58,xxx kms.. and my friend recommended the castrol one.. any experiences with the castrol transmission oil?
    The first number is viscosity at cold temperature, the second number is viscosity when the gearbox is warmish.

    If it is 75w80 and can be used with manual synchromesh gearbox, then you can use it.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  2. #38
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CU2 Accord Euro
    Quote Originally Posted by ig3o View Post
    sorry im still abit noob at this.. which one would be a thicker oil.. higher the number or lower? 75w80 or 75w90 etc..

    and my cars done 58,xxx kms.. and my friend recommended the castrol one.. any experiences with the castrol transmission oil?
    castrol oil is fine, no issues.. Some people eg me, are picky with what the car gets.. Stick to oem (Honda) specifications and you'll be fine

  3. #39
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    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    BB6 ATTS
    Quote Originally Posted by ig3o View Post
    sorry im still abit noob at this.. which one would be a thicker oil.. higher the number or lower? 75w80 or 75w90 etc..

    and my cars done 58,xxx kms.. and my friend recommended the castrol one.. any experiences with the castrol transmission oil?
    If I were you, unless you're going to purchase something that's a large jump from OEM (eg. Fully Synthetic) not to mention the correct viscosity (75w80, as aaronng mentioned). I would stick with OEM Honda MTF 06. It's cheaper or similar price to off the shelf minerals/semi synthetics and it's proven to be good. No point in getting an average after market brand for a price that's similar or more expensive that what you can get OEM for...
    AMSOIL 10w30/Ea013 @ 5k OCI's, AMSOIL MTF Synchromesh, RE002's @ F 40/R 38 PSI; 9.23L/100kms. Suburban(Minimal Freeway).

    Self Tuned (Road). Dyno soon.

  4. #40
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    It is also better to use change MTF often (every 2 years), than to use a super expensive synthetic and not change for (6-8 years)
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  5. #41
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Car:
    2004 Accord Euro

    Automatic Transmission

    Hi,

    Does anyone know where the drain plug for the transmisson is on a accord euro 2004?

  6. #42
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by Hanice View Post
    Hi,

    Does anyone know where the drain plug for the transmisson is on a accord euro 2004?
    Should be the lowest bolt with a 3/8" square drive on the transmission case. Not sure if it is facing the left or right side of the transmission case. Usually faces the passenger side but it could be the opposite side as in the case of the TSX.

    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  7. #43
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Car:
    2004 Accord Euro
    Thanks Aaronng.

    I have that pick from tuning dvd I boought ebay.
    I can't seem to replicate that under the car. I will try again

  8. #44
    Member Array
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    Mar 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    honda vfr800 98
    Abit off topic but what about the auto trans? any decent aftermarket alternatives? comparable on a cost /quality perspective?

  9. #45
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    May 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10KRPM View Post
    Abit off topic but what about the auto trans? any decent aftermarket alternatives? comparable on a cost /quality perspective?
    Use ONLY Honda ATF. If you use the lube finder tools on Castrol's website, it actually says to use the manufacturer's ATF.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  10. #46
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    Apr 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
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    BB6 ATTS
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronng View Post
    Use ONLY Honda ATF. If you use the lube finder tools on Castrol's website, it actually says to use the manufacturer's ATF.
    To be honest, if you have a standard transmission I don't see the point/need to use anything other than Honda MTF/ATF. Honda transmissions are built very well. The fact they are FWD helps (Less stress, less power loss etc.)

    Aftermarket oils in AWD's and cars with higher torque is understandable due to the stress they are under (and also the fact if the car has torque and is RWD it most likely isn't a honda... so the OEM oil may not be as good).
    AMSOIL 10w30/Ea013 @ 5k OCI's, AMSOIL MTF Synchromesh, RE002's @ F 40/R 38 PSI; 9.23L/100kms. Suburban(Minimal Freeway).

    Self Tuned (Road). Dyno soon.

  11. #47
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    Mar 2005
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    Brisbane
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    honda vfr800 98
    Quote Originally Posted by Phased View Post
    To be honest, if you have a standard transmission I don't see the point/need to use anything other than Honda MTF/ATF. Honda transmissions are built very well. The fact they are FWD helps (Less stress, less power loss etc.)

    Aftermarket oils in AWD's and cars with higher torque is understandable due to the stress they are under (and also the fact if the car has torque and is RWD it most likely isn't a honda... so the OEM oil may not be as good).

    Your logic is flawed there. You do not need higher outputs to warrant changing over to a non factory oil. There are countless examples of where 3rd party companies produce a similar or exact same version of oil(s) for a similar price or even lower?

    Why else would you have people with stock standard cars , buy semi syn oils when mineral based will do? Even performance cars, why buy full syn when semi will do? the examples are endless.

    And being rwd does not mean it can use aftermarket oils better...........where did that statement come from?

  12. #48
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    Apr 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10KRPM View Post
    Your logic is flawed there. You do not need higher outputs to warrant changing over to a non factory oil. There are countless examples of where 3rd party companies produce a similar or exact same version of oil(s) for a similar price or even lower?

    Why else would you have people with stock standard cars , buy semi syn oils when mineral based will do? Even performance cars, why buy full syn when semi will do? the examples are endless.
    It's not a debate just over the base stock of the oils used. It's a debate over viscosity, API/GL service ratings, additives, Esters etc. They design an OEM oil for use in the Standard transmission.

    My Point was Honda's design and build good transmissions and good transmission oil... Wheras most of the other manufacturers deliver fairly average OEM oils. There is no real need to change it if your doing street/occasional track driving. Honda AT transmissions are very sensitive to which oils are used thus why as aaronng said even the aftermarket brands specify OEM oil. Noticed how most manual Honda Transmissions specify 75w80 and most other cars specify a 75w90?

    The reason I mentioned built AWD's/RWD's as they usually have higher torque and more stress put on the transmission (WRX is a great example) when I owned my WRX even the differance between a good Synthetic and a better synthetic was noticable. (Redline vs Royal Purple vs Castrol). In my old DC2... no matter which oil I used... OEM always felt just as good or better... The reason people use aftermarket oils in these cars is there is belief that you need to, if driving it harder than usual.

    Quote Originally Posted by 10KRPM View Post
    And being rwd does not mean it can use aftermarket oils better...........where did that statement come from?
    That isn't what I said. Rear Wheel drive vehicles usually come from manufacturers that produce OEM oils that are of inferior quality to honda's and also most of them are put under a larger amount of stress.

    Main Point: Honda's have less Torque, Are Built better, and produce very good quality OEM Oils so it is not as necessary nor would i recommend using anything other than an OEM oil for a standard transmission. If your box has been rebuilt with aftermarket equipment (have a few mates which have PPG's in their WRX's, then you use the oil that the builder specifies.)
    Last edited by Phased; 10-09-2009 at 02:21 PM.
    AMSOIL 10w30/Ea013 @ 5k OCI's, AMSOIL MTF Synchromesh, RE002's @ F 40/R 38 PSI; 9.23L/100kms. Suburban(Minimal Freeway).

    Self Tuned (Road). Dyno soon.

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