Project from wreck to vtec

**Val** · 21-10-2010 10:16 PM

Would that be a stock rx7? because the opinion might change when you see a gt35/40 or t04z on an rx7 or supra :P in the end though, they would all be going the same speed in peak hour traffic. When building a car you have to first set out what it will be used for. Sure, a b18 ed would be more fun to drive then a d16, but a k20 would be even better. And while that's out of the price range for a daily, does that mean that an engine swap is unaffordable?

D16 is enough to have some fun on the road, while still being good on the fuel. Sway bars and disk brakes are going on it because i can't stand driving a car that doesn't have any handling at all. More so, i want a car thats easy to drive and can be done with a hangover, and something i won't get into trouble easy with. Supra will more then likely end up as a weekend/track car, always wanted a t51 on it. And also planning on getting a bike once im on off my P's, looking at a Fireblade - another toy i don't want to take out in the rain.

**Val** · 15-11-2010 11:36 PM

But i ended up getting a brand new flywheel, clutch & pressure plate from the US since the $ is cheap. Had some trouble with the flywheel bolts, turned out to be standard bolts that have been cut, only about the .75 of a cm into the thread, and when i tried to torque them the thread striped. Honda wanted $66 for 6 bolts with 2 weeks wait, so i got some ARP bolts off the shelf from a supplier in west Sydney for $55. SO i got the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate installed, then cleaned up the gearbox and connected it up to the engine.

Then i cleaned up the engine on the outside from the grease and dirt and put it into the red hatchback. Then installed the pedals, connected the clutch through the hole i made in the firewall that mimiced the clutch hole on the donor ED, put in the DA master cylinder and connected that to the brake pedal. Connected the fuel lines, and now working to figure out the heater hoses and so on, as well as the wiring. I've gotten the under-dash fusebox diagram so i could put in some fuses, now to put in all the connections and wire in the ignition.

Been bugging Peter aka jdm_b16a with the swap queries haha he's been a great help!

**GSi_PSi** · 16-11-2010 04:35 PM

lots of people that mock vtec or downplay it i have found usually have never been in a B18,B20,K20,K24 swapped car

**Val** · 16-11-2010 08:29 PM

yeah im one of them. Someone take me for a spin...

**Val** · 22-11-2010 05:37 PM

Fuseboxes done, ignition switch wired up, ECU connected, got cluster wiring grafted onto the harness, cluster seems to work so far. Got the fluids (engine oil, gb oil, fuel, etc) in and tried starting - the engine cranks over however not firing

Got no spark! No spark coming out of the leads. There are no error codes thrown from the computer, so im thinking its to do with the wiring. Gotta dig up the multimeter and get checking.

**ekfour97** · 24-11-2010 09:49 AM

Originally Posted by Val

yeah im one of them. Someone take me for a spin...

i would and then you want a b18 .... good read mate look forward to seeing more

**Val** · 24-11-2010 08:45 PM

Checked all wires for voltage & continuity as per the manual, seems all good except for the resistance on the igniter coil is a bit high between the +ve and the -ve terminal. Plus manual said that if all tests come up ok to replace the igniter coil, so that will be my next step.

Ran into a problem too as i pulled a charged battery from another car, and by the time i finished checking everything it died and the other car is an auto

Felt pretty embarrassing asking the neighbors for a boost and wires too haha but oh well.

**Val** · 14-12-2010 07:54 PM

Been a bit distracted playing with this lol

But i got the new ignitor and still no start. I'll test for spark again and maybe get a new dizzy then, not sure what it can be :S

**Val** · 14-12-2010 07:56 PM

ps other pics are up

**Val** · 26-12-2010 04:51 PM

Ok so i redone all the tests from the manual with the new ignitor, all the voltages are as should be, bat on the 2 terminals of the ignitor, slightly less on the coil end. Tested the dizzy cap for continuity and thats sport on. Same with each of the terminals. Still no spark though

So im thinking now that its a problem with the connection between the thing spinning inside the dizzy and all 4 of the terminals.

Also, as i have the CRV cluster connected up and running i've put in 2 full cans of petrol, and the level is still below empty. Im thinking if this might be effecting something, like a failsafe. Also, i noticed both clutch and brake pedals have connectors on top, i don't have either connected yet.

Best thing to test at this moment would be to sub in another complete working dizzy, can someone let me know if they have a spare working dizzy lying around or one they can lend me for a day so i can test??

**markismaximus** · 26-12-2010 04:58 PM

Originally Posted by Val

Also, i noticed both clutch and brake pedals have connectors on top, i don't have either connected yet.

Hey Val,

the switch on the brake is connected to the brake light circuit..... push brake pedal, lights come on.

switch on clutch is a safety measure when starting, clutch needs to be pushed in for car to start.

HOWEVER, in saying that my ED (and most likely all of them) have a plastic grommet that deteriorates and falls out over time. So the switch is always "on" when starting the car. So that switch probably hasn't been functional for some time I would say.

what wiring diagrams are you using for connecting all this up?

**Val** · 26-12-2010 05:56 PM

Hey Mark,

Thanks for this, i will check it out as i couldn't find what the connector clip for the clutch pedal, but remember seeing something in one of the manuals, just seeing if im going crazy though after going through countless websites and what not lol

Currently using a cd i got with ED, EG and EK repair manuals off ebay. They are Honda manuals that have been scanned in as PDF's. And use Peter's thread as a guide as well.