NSPYRE great work, rep points for u sir. good 2 see some nice pipol still on forums, that dnt attack wen pipol wen they get confused about specs and what not
just putting it out there, got some buddyclub spec3+ in my b18c7 with the regular ihe with a 65mm tb and some cam gears(forgot what they're dialed in for)
felt about the same with the stock ecu, way more responsive after a proper tune
NSPYRE great work, rep points for u sir. good 2 see some nice pipol still on forums, that dnt attack wen pipol wen they get confused about specs and what not
+256788543!! Your a champ! Thanks for the insight.
So relatively speaking, the Buddy Club's are the way to go for a 'drop in' upgrade? The plan is to eventually go for a tune once everything is in.
just putting it out there, got some buddyclub spec3+ in my b18c7 with the regular ihe with a 65mm tb and some cam gears(forgot what they're dialed in for)
felt about the same with the stock ecu, way more responsive after a proper tune
Interesting. How big was the improvement after the tune? And did you pay a million dollars for the tune?
Not true. BC Spec III can be run safely without tune. Of course, you will get more out of it if you take the time and effort to do so.
*cough* Buddy Club Spec III+ is their entry level cam and the least aggresive of its range. Just because it says Spec III does not mean it equates to Skunk2 Pro Series 3 or TODA Spec C or JUN Type 3. Please do your research on cam profiles first before providing misleading information. BC Spec III+ was designed for mostly mid-range with improvement up top without sacrificing too much low end. It is essentially a street spec cam, and thus probably perfect for the OP as he's not a serious racer and the cam does not require extensive supporting mods.
To the OP: Good work on doing your research and coming up with the conclusion to complete your header and exhaust setup Let us know on what you choose.
Thanks for that, I had no idea and assumed wrong!
But still the tune will be required to get the most out of them, and then we're looking well beyond the initial price of $550 surely? ECU and tuned we're probably looking at $1500+?
hey guys, i have a dc2 vti-r 95 model. At the start of this year i did.
Blox B cams
Blox Dual valve springs
Blox retainers
Blox cam gears (set to +2 degrees intake and +1 degree exhaust)
Skunk IM + 68mm TB
T1R headers
Full 2.25in exhaust (Crappy custom job)
Injen CAI
Full port and polish (Port matched in and ex with machined valve seats and modified valves)
Hondata S100
Toda tune
All up it cost me about 4.5k. Whoever was asking about a tune it cost me about $1350
The car just made 131.4kw at the wheels
The blox cams are good, nice idle, a little bit lumpy if the idle is set to standard but mine is set to around 1100rpm so its quite smooth. The power is really good and its nice and responsive aswell.
The specs are 12.0mm lift exhast with 266 degrees duration (vtec) and 12.4mm lift intake with 266 degrees duration (vtec). Im not sure about the primary lobes but im told that theyre slightly bigger than standard.
If you guys are sceptical about the power output, Yonas from JDM Yard has my dyno sheet.
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Originally Posted by pinoy-boi
Let us know on what you choose.
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