not sure... I was thinking it could be reduced tyre noise? They said in the video it keeps the car more straight with less corrections needed in a straight line...?
duno if it helps with less corrections in a straight line coz i doubt the subframe moves that much
but then you put subframe locks in nissans in the rear subframe... alot more road noise is transfered to the car
these would be the same
duno if it helps with less corrections in a straight line coz i doubt the subframe moves that much
but then you put subframe locks in nissans in the rear subframe... alot more road noise is transfered to the car
these would be the same
ohh really... how does that work with the more noise? Personal experience?
Further to above: this is a bit of a review of the collars from an FN2R Technical Forum article:
"Difference is suttle the up & down movement of the body & suspension is less & around corners the car squats slightly more, I had the spoon subframe brace installed at the same time so I would think this would have helped as well
The photos don't show this but you can see when you look in between body & subframe where the bolt fits, it is not centred in the hole which the collar fixes. No more clunking Yah"
ohh really... how does that work with the more noise? Personal experience?
yea this is personal experience with nissan rear subframes
mind you, they have a rubber bush pressed into the subframe to take out harshness but this encourages subframe slop
honda front subframes may not have slop so might reduce noise?duno...
Originally Posted by Alvis
Further to above: this is a bit of a review of the collars from an FN2R Technical Forum article:
"Difference is suttle the up & down movement of the body & suspension is less & around corners the car squats slightly more, I had the spoon subframe brace installed at the same time so I would think this would have helped as well
The photos don't show this but you can see when you look in between body & subframe where the bolt fits, it is not centred in the hole which the collar fixes. No more clunking Yah"
which points does the spoon subframe brace tie up?
I don't know man, I tried searching but couldn't really come up with anything - might have to climb under the car to find out... but have a post on Honda-Tech so maybe the yanks know more than we do:
Ironically, the original thread was started by another member only a couple of days before this one!
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2942185&highlight=subframe+rigid+ collar
Interesting thread - any thoughts on using simply crush washers instead? (Aluminium)
You wouldn't get the geometry improvement but it would be a damn sight cheaper than the spoon set-up. If it worked you could crush aluminium between the metal surfaces at key points around the chassis and get the 'welding' effect they talk about on the spoon video on youtube. Potentially could stiffen up old creaky chassis like on EGs or EKs
Just a thought
...96 EK4 VTIR Hatch, Enkei RPF1s, BClub Short Shift Kit, Mugen Pedals, Tanabe NF210 springs, whiteline rear sway bar
Interesting thread - any thoughts on using simply crush washers instead? (Aluminium)
You wouldn't get the geometry improvement but it would be a damn sight cheaper than the spoon set-up. If it worked you could crush aluminium between the metal surfaces at key points around the chassis and get the 'welding' effect they talk about on the spoon video on youtube. Potentially could stiffen up old creaky chassis like on EGs or EKs
Just a thought
Yeh, it is an interesting thought... essentially I'm guessing that's what the spoon collars are - just like a crush washer. I might even ask my Dad what he thinks - he's a fitter and turner by trade and has restored his own car (Jensen Interceptor, with a Chyrsler 440 cubic V8 7.2L) a while back and with a lathe at home might be able to help...
Saint - any feedback from your lecturer at college?
Yeh, it is an interesting thought... essentially I'm guessing that's what the spoon collars are - just like a crush washer. I might even ask my Dad what he thinks - he's a fitter and turner by trade and has restored his own car (Jensen Interceptor, with a Chyrsler 440 cubic V8 7.2L) a while back and with a lathe at home might be able to help...
Saint - any feedback from your lecturer at college?
A backyard solution is potentially really cheap. For the cost of a sheet of aluminium or some washers and some wrenching it might be worth someone having a crack. If you know someone with a lathe even better.
I discussed it with a Mech Eng mate of mine and he said to keep the surfaces properly painted before installing as the aluminium next to certain types of steel can lead to rusting issues. Though I'd suggest this would only occur if the surfaces aren't dry when you press them together as rust needs moisture as well as a contact or 'circuit' to allow electron flow (painting provides a barrier).
...96 EK4 VTIR Hatch, Enkei RPF1s, BClub Short Shift Kit, Mugen Pedals, Tanabe NF210 springs, whiteline rear sway bar
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