when things get hot, they expand. when things get cold, they contract. Sounds like you could have a sticking rear caliper piston. otherwise could possibly be something ignition related (I have had faulty leads/plugs give similar but slightly different symptoms). The car doesn't miss or anything does it?
hey mate, thanks for the help ey.. that could be one problem that i should take it to the shop and get it check out... i don't know but when the engine hot and every time i change gears the speed slightly drop down pretty quick and it doesn't roll on the little hills..
Let the car warm up by idling for 20mins then go for a drive.
This will determine if it's actually 20mins of driving or 20mins of driving in stop start traffic ect, know what I mean?
Could be a sticking brake master cylinder, I know the ford falcons have this issue.
Let the car warm up by idling for 20mins then go for a drive.
This will determine if it's actually 20mins of driving or 20mins of driving in stop start traffic ect, know what I mean?
Could be a sticking brake master cylinder, I know the ford falcons have this issue.
If I were u I'd bleed all 4 brakes first
yeah couse when i drive the car it seem like the brake is holding on my pads.. and i've to rev up to 3000rmp so the car will slowly move.. normally i don't have to rev that high when the engine still cold..
Have a look at your brake fluid it would give you a good idea at the condition of the whole system. If there is a lot of gunk in your brake lines then it can clog the return valve in your brake pistons causing them to get stuck on.
Ditto on the bleeding of brakes, although if you had your pads done by a shop they should have checked this as well.
hey guys, i bleed all four of my brake today and one of my rear doesn't come out much fluid when i fully step on it, but my other rear come out heaps like pissing... could it be a broken piston?
if i changed that piston would it solve my problem?
How many clicks does your handbrake lever come up in order to apply the parking brakes. If less than 3-4 then the cable/s could be adjusted to tight or the cable may have siezed in the applied position on that side. Not sure what the DC2R's are like but I'm going to assume they're the same as other Honda's.
There is usually a cover at the back of the centre console (ashtray above) that you pop out with a flat blade screwdriver. This gives access to the adjustment for the cables which are connected together with a balance bar (cables on each side and adjusting rod from lever in the middle with adjusting nut) The bar should be sitting reasonably straight across all 3, if it's at an extreme angle this is usually a sign of something not quite right. Pull your lever on and off a few times to see how the cables move. They should tighten up evenly i.e. apply even pressure to both brakes, if only 1 is moving or moves considerably more than the other, usually means the other is siezed.
Also as far as the caliper piston is concerned (once again provided it's of the same design as other Honda ones) You don't press the piston back in when changing pads. The end of the piston has a cross (+) shaped groove/s in it and is screwed in to clear the pads. When the new pads are placed in position on the disc in their carrier, the piston is then screwed back out so that one of the grooves engages with a peg on the back of the inner pad. (the caliper is normally pivoted up out of the way on its top slide bolt).
It's possible that the piston's been screwed out too far and been forced onto the pad which would cause it to be tight on the disc and because it can't retract, heat buildup is causing it to grip even tighter as you drive. This adjustment of the piston to pad is fairly critical, too loose and you'll get excess pedal travel although it should selfadjust up. This is the reason for the double groove (+) which gives 1/4 turn adjustment.
If it's not those couple of things I've indicated then a siezed piston is the next possibilty. As far as not getting an even flow of fluid out of the bleeders, the most common cause is dirt blocking the passage in the bleeder nipple itself. I always take them out first and poke a bit of 1-1.2mm wire through them and blow them out.
A tip for successful bleeding, 1 person to pump the pedal. 2nd person to open and close the bleeder nipples in time with the srokes of the pedal i.e. open on the push stroke, close BEFORE the release stroke. This way you can be sure no air will be drawn back into the system.
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Originally Posted by stndrd
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