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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Wollongong
    Car:
    Civic EK Si '98
    Intersting thread as I've often thought about putting a B16A2 in my EK1 and I admire you for looking into it! But like what was said in the second post the main things that stop me doing this are money (obviously) and future plans.

    Don't want to be a 'downer' but when I think about how much I could sell my car for + how much potential mods would cost (+XX% for unexpected problems - you have to budget this in) I find I can pretty much own myself a decent DC2 or DC5 R and I've got the right foundations to build on this 1-2+ years down the track ie your car grows with you as you earn more money etc etc.

    Rationally I think there is a line you draw in the sand and you just say I'm happy with what I've got. But irrational things do make us mod cars purely for the love of it!

    At least you have a B series!
    HONDAOEMMUGEN

    JDM/Mugen inspired EK sedan build thread: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ss-pics/page34

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Kermit K20A
    The cheapest way (overall but not initially) to make power is, dare I say, turbocharging
    Kermit EGK20A
    Winton: 1:35.08
    Wakefield: 1:08.8

  3. #15
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    ^

    Cheapest for power gained per $ for sure bro.


    Alvis, love your car mate but the DC2R is in a class of it's own. I'd just buy one of those if I were you and wanting and wanting a better engine.

  4. #16
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Wollongong
    Car:
    Civic EK Si '98
    Yep, I couldn't agree with you more, no matter what you do to a Civic, at the end of the day it will always be a Civic.

    An 'R' is a completely different type of blood.

    I so want a DC2R now! Damn it.
    HONDAOEMMUGEN

    JDM/Mugen inspired EK sedan build thread: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ss-pics/page34

  5. #17
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    northern NSW
    Car:
    Eg breeze
    Quote Originally Posted by vtecing View Post
    If you are doing head work, keep it mild and don't raise the rpm, ur stock crank shaft won't cope.
    got any evidence of this?
    The reason the b16b and b18c crankshafts are balanced and reinforced, is because they need to be
    Last edited by Egcivicduty; 17-12-2011 at 10:16 AM.

  6. #18
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Quote Originally Posted by Egcivicduty View Post
    got any evidence of this?
    The reason the b16b and b18c crankshafts are balanced and reinforced, is because they need to be
    Also would like some evidence. Haven't heard this myself and I would have thought that most B16's or B18C's would rev out a bit higher than OEM without blowing the block. My built B16A rev's out to 9,000 and has been doing so for the last 10-11 months without trouble.

  7. #19
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    northern NSW
    Car:
    Eg breeze
    maybe he meant that the stock tachometer wont be able to handle it?

  8. #20
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    legtec @2psi
    lol one dude back in the day had a B16a with Toda Spec C cams revving out to like 9200rpm on the stock bottom end. He ran a 13.9 with 4.9FD in a CRX delsol....
    made 118kw atw tuned by toda..

  9. #21
    dayum. 118 atw naiice.
    DEEFUFF 4LYF

  10. #22
    I don't have any evidence, just going by what Honda suggests. Going from a standard b16 to a b16b they upgraded the crankshaft so that it is more balanced, because the rpm has been raised. Anything that spins fast needs to be balanced, a perfect example of this is with your wheels/tyres, when you are traveling at 60kmh it isn't terribly noticeable that your wheels haven't been balanced, although once we reach high way speeds it becomes apparent that our wheels are not balanced for those speeds. It's the same with a crankshaft, the faster you spin it, the more perfectly balanced it needs to be, hence why we have harmonic balancers.

    I acknowledge that yes it is possible to raise the rpm and the engine may remain perfectly fine, just like bolting on a turbo charger and not opening the block or lowering the compression. Most of the time the engine will cope, but it's just not 'advisable'.

  11. #23
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    legtec @2psi
    Honestly I would be more worried about valve springs and rod bolts in raising rpm , the Honda crankshafts come balanced from factory , the only differences between the R's are they have been counterweighted which I guess makes it more durable and reliable keeping the engine from internal vibrations. But also makes it heavier vs the b16a -b18c2 equivalents. In saying this, I have never heard of anyones crankshaft failing on a Honda before....

  12. #24
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    ^

    Agreed. I'd also be more concerned with the valvetrain.

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