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 Originally Posted by Civic Type R
Excuse me Tinkerbell, instead of trying to be a smart ass, you can contribute to threads with a little more respect and stop trying to think you are a walking Honda tuning manual with something to prove.
Your findings are valid yet unconclusive for all you can come up with is an answer your source can not provide proof of. "This is an all too common misconception, and one with no scientific data to support it."
If you are so sure of yourself, why dont you pop your oil cap and mix freely full synthetic with mineral oil and get over yourself. Then provide us and everyone here with your results.
Until then, keep searching your internet assistant GOOGLE until you find us substantial scientific data to prove this common misconception and every mechanic i know wrong.
don't get too upset, let's not forget who told everyone that:
If you mix full synthetic with mineral, you will get a chemical reaction which will cause the oil to breakdown and act like an acid and hence eat away at your internals.
maybe if you checked you facts before posting... maybe i would not have to PROVE anything in the first place?
true?
B20VTEC - since 2002 
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you've only PROVED one thing in my book...
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I smell a BANNING in the air.
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hey when I change my oil next ill keep the left overs, ill test it to see if there any metalic particals in it. and use it on objects around the house and see if it acid burns stuff
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 Originally Posted by ProECU
you've only PROVED one thing in my book...
that the internet is stranger than fiction?
B20VTEC - since 2002 
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I was equipped by Mugen
Array
/unsubscribes from thread.
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You can actually have your old oil chemically tested for contaminants, such as metals, fuel etc etc.
A lot of race teams go to this extreme to get an idea of how the engine is performing.
 Originally Posted by KB
hey when I change my oil next ill keep the left overs, ill test it to see if there any metalic particals in it. and use it on objects around the house and see if it acid burns stuff
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 Originally Posted by ProECU
You can actually have your old oil chemically tested for contaminants, such as metals, fuel etc etc.
for example:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm
B20VTEC - since 2002 
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 Originally Posted by Username
but if the engine oil is sitting in my engine unused it has a useby date.. 
well, oil that has *been used* is different, but for the sake of NEW oil:
for example Penrite states:
In most cases, the performance properties of
liquid lubricants (oils) will remain intact for
many years provided they have been in
protected storage and not exposed to severe
high/low temperature cycles. Generally, the
simpler oil formulation, the longer the oil will
remain satisfactory.
and specifically:
Hydraulic Engine / Motor Oils and
Transmission Oils
Although these oils contain high additive
contents, they are extremely stable. They
may be stored for five (5) years under
protected conditions* without any
significant deterioration in performance.
http://www.penrite.com.au/techbullet...89f2e794f2fc44
but oil that has been used, ie subjected to heat and friction, it will begin to break down and this is why you change oil at X'000km or every 6 -12 months (whichever coems first...)
B20VTEC - since 2002 
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hey guys,
just a noob question, ive been getting mixed reponses for this one.
my lude vti-r has been serviced religiously at a honda dealership (prior owner) and now its time for me to change the oil (its got nearly 165k)
I bought Castrol Formula R Synthetic 0-40w
Do i have to do a flush before i change to the synthetic? Or would it be alright to switch over and change after say 5000-10000kms?
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 Originally Posted by zoopsta
hey guys,
just a noob question, ive been getting mixed reponses for this one.
my lude vti-r has been serviced religiously at a honda dealership (prior owner) and now its time for me to change the oil (its got nearly 165k)
I bought Castrol Formula R Synthetic 0-40w
Do i have to do a flush before i change to the synthetic? Or would it be alright to switch over and change after say 5000-10000kms?
flush with what? no product i know of can "prepare" your engine for a different type of oil?
my VTiR teg had 155'000km on it and i switched straight to castrol Formula R as soon as i bought it...
i did not notice any problems after doing so. the B20VTEC engine i just installed in my VTiR has been running on mineral oil since i built it and i am switching straight over to Mobil 1 full synth this weekend...(i highly doubt there will be ANY problems with this as the seals are all brand new and have net set with a particular type of oil)
as this Penrite fact sheet states:
http://www.penrite.com.au/techbullet..._SYNTHETIC.pdf
When changing from any oil type to the other the possibility of short term oil consumption may arise - regardless of the type of base oil.
and finishes with:
In all cases, the old oil should be fully drained and the filters replaced when changing one oil to another, even within brands.
i dunno about you, but i always change my filter when i change my oil, they are only like 8 bucks or so...
and since your car is newish, it will have less problems than say a 1984 Ford Telstar in changing over oil type, IMO...
B20VTEC - since 2002 
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there should be no problem with mixing oil as long as they are the same type of oil i.e. 15w-40. ive done that many times with my car as ive ran out of the oil that i used in my service but i always use brand name oil. NEVER use chesp stuff. it doesnt do any harm. my mech. says that its fine aslong as you change it a.s.a.p.
Team West Yo!
1:15:0 @ Wakefield park
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