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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    melbourne west-side
    Car:
    '11 WRX
    it is what? quiker or more powerfull?

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Car:
    1989 Integra XSI
    I would say that neither car is really quicker.. with thoes kinda differences, it will come down to the better driver

  3. #15
    redbook is dodgey ...
    trust me the 91's are quicker and they seem to scream a little harder
    my 91 was one lil beast for a 1.8litre

  4. #16
    better driver be right too ! the diff in KW wouldnt be noticable from car to car anyway you would have to have the exact car with exact same replacement's and parts or compelely stock never touched never driven we are talking about 9KW from a a 15-17 year old car.
    Last edited by INTEGGRA; 04-08-2006 at 02:29 PM.

  5. #17

  6. #18
    In my car, I previously had a 1990, 96kw version, then changed to an OBD1 103kw motor, and it certainly is/was faster. Stock everything on both, except the 90 motor base timing was set at 21.5degrees, and my current motor at 17.5 degrees.

    Driver certainly plays a part, but in my case, that's a constant

    The pants say it's faster

  7. #19
    any idea what they put down at the wheels?

  8. #20
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    SYD XFORCE HQ
    Car:
    DC2+2, DC5R, LE
    so is actually the ecu or the engine make the difference?

    i also heard the 92-93 model ls can do vtec conversion easier beocs of the obd1 loom is already there so u dont have to touch the loom..just new ecu and engine then can be done...is that right?
    Race Nation Auto
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  9. #21
    It's a combination of both;

    Yes you don't have to touch the loom for an OBD1 VTi-R conversion, however type-r's were only OBD2 IIRC. Most people when doing swaps like that do not leave them stock (its a waste otherwise) so therefore you can get a obd2-1 thing and then plug it into an obd1 computer and tune it that way. OBD1 ecu's are the tunable ones.

    If you get a half-cut, it's not a problem anyway; It's not really that much of a task to pull out the whole loom out of one and put it in another (trust me, i've done it) compared to the whole engine swap itself.

    As for power, allthough you'll have no use out of the number, as it doesn't really mean much, my OBD1 B18A1 put down 89.6kw, completely stock sans a bit of timing and intake only up to the box. That is slightly over-corrected (screwy intake probe) in dyno dynamics shootout mode. To aid the cause, I do have either a blown headgasket/cracked head causing chronic burning of coolant (though, on the day of the dyno, it wasn't as bad as it is today).

    The end.

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