How To Chip Honda Ecu's
I couldn't find anything on this with a quick search so I have decided to share a post I made over at NZH a while ago about how to chip ecu's.
Tools:
Soldering iron (15watt works well for me)
De soldering braid
Solder sucker
Solder
multimeter
PGMFI City Turbo:
Parts:
Chip 27SF128,27SF256 or 27SF512 work well.
28 pin dip socket.
Chippable ECU:
City Turbo T2 (108) (should work on T1 as well if you use T2 Rom image)
Difficulty 6/10
Method:
Warm up your soldering Iron.
While its warming up get some small wire cutters (finger nail clippers work too) and cut each leg of the 28 pin rom.
Rom
Then take a hair dryer and warm up the chip so the glue loosens and you can pull it off.
Now take your solder sucker and remove each leg thats left in the PCB
Make sure the holes are nice and wide open.
Now check that none of the traces are torn and take some isotopic alcohol and clean all of the left over glue off the PCB.
If everything checks out insert your socket and solder each pin back in.
Check with your multimeter for any shorts between pins.
Now insert your chip with the City Turbo T2 map (or in my case im using an ostrich 2.0)
Data logging port:
CN3
No datalogging yet.
Rom editors:
Work in progress so far it can change the boost limiter.
More:
This is still a work in progress. More info and all information relating to this can be found here.
ecureverse - Reverse engineering project for Honda City Turbo ECU - Google Project Hosting
OBD0
Parts:
Chip 27SF256 or 27SF512 work well.
28 pin dip socket.
Chippable ECU:
PR3
PW0
Difficulty 3/10
Method:
Warm up your soldering iron.
Once warmed up take the de-soldering braid or solder sucker and remove the solder from the back of the stock chips pins so you can remove it. (A quicker and easier way is to just chop the legs then de-soldering them one at a time also your less likely to damage traces this way.)
Once the stock chip has been removed make sure the holes are nice and open a bit of flux will help with soldering the socket in.
Now insert the 28 pin socket and solder the pins into place.
Insert your new chip into the socket making sure the notch (half moon) is the correct direction.
Area to work with (mine is already chipped so cant show you what it looks like with stock chip and what it looks like once stock chip is removed)
Data logging port:
Pin-out left to right.
1: Earth
2: RX (receives data from computer)
3: 5V
4: TX (sends data to computer)
5: Nothing
Only Earth,RX and TX are required to data log.
Data-logging requires a serial TTL converter.
Rom editors:
BRE
Turboedit
Data-logging programs:
Iv only been able to get BRE to work for data-logging and limited features in my own program.
--------------------------------------------------
OBD1:
Parts:
Chip 27SF256 or 27SF512 work well.
28pin dip socket
2X .004UF SMD resistors
2X .00001UF SMD resistors
74hc373 SMD latch
Chippable ECU:
P05
P06
P08
P30
P28
P74
P75
obd1 PR3
obd1 PR4
Difficulty 4/10 if latch is present 8/10 if latch isn't present.
Image from PGMFI.org
Method:
If your ecu is one that doesn't have the latch present then that's the first part you should solder on. There are 2 methods for this. Either use a 10 pin solid center ribbon cable. Solder each pin and make sure there are no bridges. Then solder the ribbon cable to the chip. The other method is to solder the chip directly onto the ecu. If you have the slim 74hc373 this is quite easy, If you have the non-slim 74hc373D this can be a bit harder but not impossible. It just requires you to bend the pins in a bit. Make sure you mount the latch in the correct direction.
Once you have the latch soldered in you want to test to make sure all the pins are connected correctly.
Test pinout:
ECU - Latch
1-----20
3-----15
4-----12
5-----16
6-----19
7------9
8------6
9------5
10-----2
11-----3
12-----4
13-----7
14-----1 & 10
15-----8
16-----18
17-----17
18-----13
19-----14
(Pin 11 on the latch goes to pin 22 on the MCU)
Image from QCWO.com - Home
Once you have tested every pin and confirmed a connection you will want to solder in C91's resistor, This is right next to the latch and is a .00001UF SMD.
Now de-solder the holes for the socket using the de-soldering braid.
Once they are opened up solder C92's resistor in, This is on the back between the sockets pins. It is a .00001UF SMD.
Now insert the socket in and solder up each pin make sure not to bride anything.
Once that is done solder in C50 and C49's resistor they are on the back above the sockets pins and are both .004UF SMD's.
Now if your ecu is a auto and your cars a manual you will want to remove RP17 and RP18 then bridge RP18 with a wire. These are in the bank of resistors on the back and just above the sockets pins.
To enable your ecu to use your new external rom instead of the inbuilt one you will need to bridge J1 with a wire. This is on the back and to the left of C50.
Socket
Latch
White is the MCU
Data-logging port:
Pinout top to bottom:
5: Nothing
4: TX
3: 5V
2: RX
1: Earth
Only Earth,RX and TX are required to data log.
Data-logging requires a serial TTL converter.
J4 needs to be unbridged to enable datalogging.
Rom editors:
Crome
Uberdata
Hondata
Data-logging programs:
Freelog
Hondalog
ECU control
Outro:
This information is a collection of my, PGMFI.org and qcwo.com knowledge.
It is presented as is and any damage caused by the use of this is at your own risk. This is only scratching the surface of Honda chipping.
For more info visit
pgmfi.org Index page
Hondata - Honda ECU Modification and Enhancement
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