No I have had the alleged "faulty" REO40s swapped for new ones. It allowed the vehicl to track straighter but it has issues still on cambered roads. Haven't bought different brands yet. Car has only done 11k kms.
I am completing the form you posted a link to now.
No, ALL RE040's have the problem. Because even the RE040s used on the USDM IS250s have the same problem! The only way to overcome this is to change to a different brand of tyre.
Well I have the report for the wheel alignment - pre and after.
From the aligntment specs (which I wont retype here as its too cold to go outside to fetch it), it should be tracking straight on.
Now it is pulling to the left.
I think the RE040s tramline worst, that one I could make an association with.
However, other problems such as bump steer and not tracking straight or being really darty AREN'T exclusively restricted to RE040s.
Tramlining doesnt cause problems nor will cause any accidents.
Car not tracking straight or swerving all over the place whenever the camber is uneven or there are pot holes will and I still dont understand how people can blame this on the RE040s fully. The only problem with the RE040 that I had was tramlining but that was only a small part of the whole problem.
I have had my sub frame adjusted when I had REO40's, pulling only under camber now, excessively after adjustment.
Now I have new tyres same thing !! NO DIFFERENCE
Going to get my sub frame straightened only then will this rule out REO40's
Does that make sense?
Not trying to knock REO40's, not saying they good either just process of elimination, has to be proven beyond doubt.
Prior to some suspension mods at 15,000km, my Euro never drifted to the right or left. The mods I did were to replace the rear sway bar with a stiffer bar and replace all dampers with Konis. No alteration of ride height; that's just being an idiot asking for problems on a car without adjustable camber.
Then after these mods, I had a wheel alignment done and then the car could not stay in the lane for any more than 3 seconds. I spat the dummy and got another wheel alignment done elsewhere. Hey presto! The car now tracks wonderfully and will stay in the lane for a good 5 or 6 seconds. 18,000km on the clock now.
The good wheel alignment I had done was -
Front Toe 0mm Left and Right
Rear Toe Left: 2mm In, Right: 2mm In.
Note that the camber is not adjustable. Interesting though that my front camber is roughly 0 degrees but the Left Rear is -2 degrees while the Right Rear is -1 degrees. I suppose this helps with the camber of our roads? Not sure.
Hope that helps but I suspect that most people having problems here just need a decent wheel alignment. If you've driven a long distance tolerating a strong pull to the right, then I would replace all 4 tyres, and then get a decent wheel alignment done. Don't bother waiting for Honda to fix this for you, either do it yourself or put up with it.
Note that I am still using the original RE040s and have never had the subframe adjusted.
I've been doing some more experimenting. Most of the time the Euro tracks well but sometimes it does pull to the right, taking 3 seconds to hit the whiteline. It does this despite the road looking flat but it seems that on all but the flattest of roads, then yes there is tendnancy to drift right slightly. Personally I don't think my car suffers badly from this at all.
One other thing, according to the service manual, the rear camber should be -1deg +/- 30 minutes, meaning that the left rear has half a degree more camber than it should. I'll try to reduce this using the play in the damper top hat bolts when I get the tyres changed.
I've been doing some more experimenting. Most of the time the Euro tracks well but sometimes it does pull to the right, taking 3 seconds to hit the whiteline. It does this despite the road looking flat but it seems that on all but the flattest of roads, then yes there is tendnancy to drift right slightly. Personally I don't think my car suffers badly from this at all.
That amount of pulling is very minimal. You know you have a problem if your car changes lane completely within 2-3 seconds at 110km/h. LOL. That was what I had when my left camber was -2.7 and the right was -3.2
Had a guy from Fair Trading NSW call me today as the result of my online complaint. He suggested it was torque steer. I quickly shut that concept down. He is now looking further into the complaint.
Had a guy from Fair Trading NSW call me today as the result of my online complaint. He suggested it was torque steer. I quickly shut that concept down. He is now looking further into the complaint.
He suggested it was torque steer.That's a good one.
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