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Thread: Camber Settings

  1. #1
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Mt Druitt
    Car:
    Corolla

    Camber Settings

    Hey guys, what would be a good camber setup for a FWD car for both front and rear, i am going to be borrowing a mate's set of camber pins for the track day so i'll need to set them up and i'm unsure what degree i'll need them set at.

    I have been told -1.5 front and no more than -1 on the rear so far.

    Can anyone comment???
    4AGZE Corolla. 136.4kw atw.
    13.5@98mph qtr mile.
    Wakefield Lap Time: 1:16:476

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    DB9
    IMO

    i think thats fair

    no more neg camber is necessary

    also depends how much uve lowered ur car
    Team Yum Cha Daily
    Melb Crew reppin


    .....an era has ended.....RIP YF dc2^3

    "I do apologise for what must seem like an arbitrary imposition"

  3. #3
    Go out to the track and adjust it after a few laps. Simple. The best answer you'll get will just be a good starting point. Tune it to your liking, not someone elses.

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Point Cook, VIC
    Car:
    EK1 CXI
    the more - camber on the front will give you better steering and handling, not sure about the back though. try it out a few laps and see how you like it

  5. #5
    Tyre grip will only increase with camber up to a point.

    You won't get a better answer than "experiment on the track". Same deal with tyre pressures. You won't get a good answer, you have to experiment on your own.

  6. #6
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CT9A
    Quote Originally Posted by string View Post
    Go out to the track and adjust it after a few laps. Simple. The best answer you'll get will just be a good starting point. Tune it to your liking, not someone elses.
    ??? take it to the wheel alignment place and get them to set maximum negative camber for fronts. They'll adjust toe, tell them to set it to 0 or as close as possible to 0.

    For the rears, we'll if you have adjustablility abit of camber won't hurt but you want grip at the back. ill research about it.

  7. #7
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    I prefer front negative camber -1.5, rear -1.0. Then set rear toe to toe in 1.0mm each side (total toe in 2.0mm) and then the fronts, I put toe out 0.3mm each side (total toe out 0.6mm) which will give better steering response.

    Also, you have to check what is the camber and toe change is as the suspension is compressed.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  8. #8
    Your rear camber setting will heavily depend on your relative front:rear roll stiffness.

  9. #9
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Mt Druitt
    Car:
    Corolla
    Great info guys, thanks alot, with all this setup, say for example arronng's suggested setup, would it chew the tyres out quick on cruising there are back??? I heard from a guy that adjusting toe and camber would cause my tyres stress alot on highway cruising. I was thinking maybe i should just set the toe to 0 and put -1.5 on front and -1 on the back as most have suggested. Going to check my caster tomorrow and if it's out i'm gonna have to replace my front bushes and get some caster alignment bushes. Also while i got ur attention what brake pads do you guys use. I'll need a new set.
    4AGZE Corolla. 136.4kw atw.
    13.5@98mph qtr mile.
    Wakefield Lap Time: 1:16:476

  10. #10
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by loco_corolla View Post
    Great info guys, thanks alot, with all this setup, say for example arronng's suggested setup, would it chew the tyres out quick on cruising there are back??? I heard from a guy that adjusting toe and camber would cause my tyres stress alot on highway cruising. I was thinking maybe i should just set the toe to 0 and put -1.5 on front and -1 on the back as most have suggested. Going to check my caster tomorrow and if it's out i'm gonna have to replace my front bushes and get some caster alignment bushes. Also while i got ur attention what brake pads do you guys use. I'll need a new set.
    I'm using only 0.6mm total toe out on the front, which is very little compared to the stock settings of other cars. The rears which I have at 2.0mm total toe in is actually stock specification!

    The downside of 0.6mm total toe out at the front is the car will follow camber as well as tramline a little more when you go across a groove that points straight ahead and to the right with your right tyre. It makes freeway travelling more tiring too because you have to keep the wheel straight with 2 hands. I've tried with 1 hand and my arm gets sore within 10 minutes. The upside is that if you jiggle the steering wheel by only 5mm each way, the car will move side to side as well. I like it, but it is not a setting for cars that will see mostly highway km.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  11. #11
    negative camber at front will give understeer, i reckon is better if the front stays at zero for max traction & sharper reponse. rear is usually negative figures, it should be adjusted according to the amount of lean/bodyroll existing at the average speed of all corners for the specific track. however, cars that comes/equipped with LSD can gain more advantage through negative camber at the front.

  12. #12
    Negative front camber gives understeer? Tell that to EVERY racer on the planet who runs front static camber. Less camber will give you more understeer.

    The rear won't need much camber as it will be geting a fair bit of dynamic camber during roll.

    Either way, no point running race ready alignment on the street if you're worried about tyre wear as you're only sacrificing track performance.

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