What exactly you mean by b18c7 all internals? Is it an actual b18c7 motor or a normal B series with type r internals?
Worked internals you mean including bottom end or just the head (cams, valve springs, retainers)? Coz to me I dont see any reason why wud any1 bother opt for a relatively still expensive B18CR motor then crank it open particularly the bottom end n replace with aftermarket parts (i wud only touch the head if its my b18cr). You might as well start with d cheaper options of going B20 or even a stroked B16. Or simply boost your R motor (best bang for buck for HP).
Put it this way, a well built internals B Series motor w/ I/H/E/ECU is comparable to Stock Internal K20A2 with I/H/E+KPRO HP wise (between 140kw atw maybe less) so guessing a well built K24/20 frank wud b somewer 160kw+ atw (knowing that a stock internal K24A3 with shyt headers pumps 140kw atw). I dont have personal experience driving a well built B series nor K20A2 I/H/E/KPRO. But i have both driven a stock DC2R and DC5R and I tell yah, TORQUE of K series pwns B series. Im a strong bliver of TORQUE wins RACES.
B series do not get as much gains to bolt ons compare to K series.
like what wud everydbody say, all comes down as to what your budget is.
You need to budget at least 12G+ for K swap. Sell your B18C7 for around 5G's+ and all you need is another 6-7G's and u can do K swaps. Or Put that 6-7G's to the B18C7 (id boost it for that money 6-9psi)
or check out my FS thread for K24/20 parts:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71858




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