u said it urself...so were BSing and just saying it was done in shootout mode when u dont even know what it is?
how is me confirmning that it was done in shootout mode BSing anything? all i did was look at the sheet where it said "shootout mode" thats how i knew i did it in that! i never said i knkew what it was?
i cant see shootout mode making the readings higher?? that would be falsefying dyno results/tunes and i dont think dyno dynamics would do that on purpose?!? maybe its a mode for competions? where you do to runs and the highest wins? i have no ideas, but maybe seeing as your so smart you can tell us all?
sell yr car and get something better b4 u put so much money on it.
why are you even on ozhonda?
and ive had this argument/discussion many times... i dont want to buy a car that everyone has! i want to have something different, i want to have a one of a kind...
any rich boy can get daddy to buy them a nice car, but it takes an enthusiest to make something exceptional....
how is me confirmning that it was done in shootout mode BSing anything? all i did was look at the sheet where it said "shootout mode" thats how i knew i did it in that! i never said i knkew what it was?
i cant see shootout mode making the readings higher?? that would be falsefying dyno results/tunes and i dont think dyno dynamics would do that on purpose?!? maybe its a mode for competions? where you do to runs and the highest wins? i have no ideas, but maybe seeing as your so smart you can tell us all?
no need to get touchy mate.... just smells like BS to me is all. but each to their own. i still find it very hard to believe that u achieved 130.9kw with just a removed centre muffler and a K&N SRI. and im also just wondering why u took down the dyno sheet that was up on that link?
its kinda like someone saying "i have coilovers.......whats a coilover?"
presumeably if someone does/has done something then u'd think they'd have at least some knowledge on it.... but again thats just me
now admittedly i wasnt sure what shootout mode meant when i first read it on that page so i did a bit of googling and came up with this site
it says that on the site, (proof of integrity bit) if the car was done on shootout mode :
Proof of integrity
1. All ShootOut graph runs must be supervised by an accredited ShootOut scrutineer.
2. When the Shootineer is confident that the run has been performed to Dyno Dynamics’ ShootOut standards, the approved ShootOut logo will be added to the graph.
3. Test conditions and other data is printed on the lower edge of the graph as further evidence of accuracy.
4. When the graph is printed, the Shootineer will apply the official ShootOut stamp and personally sign it.
5. As final proof, the customer is provided with a checklist to verify that all steps in vehicle preparation for the test have been carried out correctly.
so to see if your dyno sheet is authentic, and if u really claimed it was made in shootout mode, can u post the dyno graph up again?
and if it was (im giving u the benefit of the doubt), i still wont be 100% certain how shootout mode/normal dyno runs differ, and i'll still find it hard to believe u achieved a 130.9kw, but i'd be leaning more towards believing your readout.
then again, u dont have to prove anything. its just that many euro owners before you have dyno'd their euros and couldnt even get a reading close to 130 with minimal mods such as what u have got......so thats why i guess im intrigued, and ready to call the BS card....
no hard feelings....just my 2c and how i see it
Last edited by stephen8512; 17-10-2007 at 09:23 PM.
no need to get touchy mate.... just smells like BS to me is all. but each to their own. i still find it very hard to believe that u achieved 130.9kw with just a removed centre muffler and a K&N SRI. and im also just wondering why u took down the dyno sheet that was up on that link?
its kinda like someone saying "i have coilovers.......whats a coilover?"
presumeably if someone does/has done something then u'd think they'd have at least some knowledge on it.... but again thats just me
now admittedly i wasnt sure what shootout mode meant when i first read it on that page so i did a bit of googling and came up with this site
it says that on the site, (proof of integrity bit) if the car was done on shootout mode :
Proof of integrity
1. All ShootOut graph runs must be supervised by an accredited ShootOut scrutineer.
2. When the Shootineer is confident that the run has been performed to Dyno Dynamics’ ShootOut standards, the approved ShootOut logo will be added to the graph.
3. Test conditions and other data is printed on the lower edge of the graph as further evidence of accuracy.
4. When the graph is printed, the Shootineer will apply the official ShootOut stamp and personally sign it.
5. As final proof, the customer is provided with a checklist to verify that all steps in vehicle preparation for the test have been carried out correctly.
so to see if your dyno sheet is authentic, and if u really claimed it was made in shootout mode, can u post the dyno graph up again?
and if it was (im giving u the benefit of the doubt), i still wont be 100% certain how shootout mode/normal dyno runs differ but i'll still find it hard to believe but i'd be leaning more towards believing your readout.
then again, u dont have to prove anything. its just that many euro owners before you have dyno'd their euros and couldnt even get a reading close to 130 with minimal mods such as what u have got......so thats why i guess im intrigued, and ready to call the BS card....
no hard feelings....just my 2c and how i see it
i deleted it because i had to many attachments in threads and i needed the space... ill post it up again, i dont think there was a shootout engineer there, but as you'll see in the results, it says "shootout mode"...
i wasn't getting touchy, i just didnt approve of being called BS when i know i dont BS, and i do not wish to tarnish my reputation on ozhonda.
fair enuff. i stand corrected. i wasnt tryin to tarnish ur rep or anything. but when i feel like someones BS'ing i know i cant just sit still. its just how i am i suppose....
if that really is the readout from ur euro with just an SRI and removed centre muffler...and to achieve those sorts of figures with minimal mods.....then that begs the question, WTF have hondata/J-tune have to offer with their so called "extreme flash" ?! cuz their hub dyno results generate 158kw or something, which would roughly convert it to about 135kw on the wheel roller dyno...
and yes, u cant compare dyno figures but still....
earthing kit wouldnt do THAT much. it may give u a tiny bit, but its very minimal in terms of results gained...compared to one that doesnt have it. maybe 1-3 extra kw
and firstly find out if ur car was in 3rd gear or 4th gear when doing the dyno
from what i know, 3rd tends to give a higher reading when pulled all theh way to redline than when a car is dyno tested in 4th gear all the way to redline.
if it was done in 3rd and u got that figure, then get ur A/F ratio's checked. make sure ur not running rich.
earthing kit wouldnt do THAT much. it may give u a tiny bit, but its very minimal in terms of results gained...compared to one that doesnt have it. maybe 1-3 extra kw
and firstly find out if ur car was in 3rd gear or 4th gear when doing the dyno
from what i know, 3rd tends to give a higher reading when pulled all theh way to redline than when a car is dyno tested in 4th gear all the way to redline.
if it was done in 3rd and u got that figure, then get ur A/F ratio's checked. make sure ur not running rich.
then dyno again
i dont know whether you were talking to me or russ in that last bit, but i know mine was done in 4th gear because the previous dyno (toyota celica club) had been done in 4th aswell and the were giving out most improved trophies and stuff...
as for the earthing kit, yeah i dont think it wouldve given any more than maybe 1kw...
and ive had this argument/discussion many times... i dont want to buy a car that everyone has! i want to have something different, i want to have a one of a kind...
any rich boy can get daddy to buy them a nice car, but it takes an enthusiest to make something exceptional....
Why cant I on ozhonda? I owned many Honda b4 and an EUro as well.
New model is up soon and you want a one of a kind car... you may have luck when u are the first customer order the new euro then
I just feel a waste of money on performance mod on a EUro from my exp on my euro.
Besides, going off the release of the Accord (Inspire) and its new engine, the new Euro would be lucky to have about a 20kw increase in power. It is just going to have the new A-VTEC 2.4 I4, still FWD. So I think the current model has far more potential for power gains as it has been around since 2003 and far more supported products are available. In term of modifying why wait for the new one, you'll be in the exact same position most euro owners were in when the car was released.
Whiteline RSB, Cusco Tower Brace, Tein SS, Ingalls CK, Maven Shift Knob, Comptech Short Shifter, Euro R Grill, FN2 Type R Rims, Jtune ECU Reflash, Jtune Intake, Pending Evolution IX
Originally Posted by stephen8512
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