Vtir Brake Upgrade options?

[TECDUP]

i say just get a nice set of brake pads.

My car is only used for daily at the moment, but i am slowly preparing it for the track so just a nice set of pads wont be enough, i want to do the upgrade and i think it will be beneficial also for when the car is tracked, keeping that in mind...

the fronts i will change from 262mm/19mm thick - 282mm/21mm thick, am i able to upgrade the rear's from 239mm/8mm thick to 260mm/9mm thick, same as ITR?

[TECDUP]

Nothing like a morning bump...

does anyone know if i can replace the rear as above?

[Moya]

If you got bigger $$$, there's always the big and blingy Wilwood kits. But thats massive stopping power.

[TECDUP]

yeah i have looked into all the us kits, none of them have anything for the rear that enables you to still use the oem Handbrake...this is become a massive pain in the a$$

[JasonGilholme]

My setup at all 4 corners:

OEM Calipers
RDA Slotted Discs <- 350 all up
TWR/Lucas Pads 0-650 <- 130 all up
Brake Quipe Braided Lines <- 260 all up
1 Inch master cylinder
OEM Brake Fluid

Good setup for under a grand and will defiantely feel better then what you've got at the moment. Good bang for buck and if you spent more i don't think you'd notice much of a difference (unless of course you went for crazy wilwoods/AP Racing setup)

[Moya]

yeah i have looked into all the us kits, none of them have anything for the rear that enables you to still use the oem Handbrake...this is become a massive pain in the a$$

How so? I didn't notice that, but now you have me curious.

[TECDUP]

Wilwood don't have anything bolt-on for Integra for the rear,

K Sport don't have anything to fit under 16' wheels, must be at least 17' (recommended) may suit smaller in some cases...these did not function with OEM handbrake

AP Racing was too costly

I have opted to upgrade the fronts with Brembo rotor 282mm with early CRV calipers...for the rear i chose to just overhaul the caliper, replace rotor and ebc blue stuff all round
the Brake booster does not need to be replaced, as far as i know, someone correct me if i am wrong but all vtir's (maybe just the early models) came out with the largest booster available

in the future when i start to seriously track i will replace the brake lines and if the above set up is not sufficient i will replace the front calipers with spoon and upgrade the rear with larger rotor and spoon rear caliper. for now i think that what has been chosen should be a good upgrade

[smudge]

Don’t worry about the rear brakes they don’t do too much. I’ve got a DC2R and am reasonably aggressive on brakes (my lap times seem to be there or thereabouts with other DC2Rs). I’ve had brake temp paint on my brakes on track days - the front paint indicators were just starting to show 600 degrees and the rear indicators didn’t even get past 200 degrees. Get hard on the brakes on circuits (//Calder - turn 1 (5th to 2nd gear), //Phillip Island - Honda Corner (4th to 2nd gear), MG corner (4th to 2nd gear), //Sandown – turn 1 (4th to 3rd gear) and Dandenong Rd (4th/5th to 2nd gear) and Winton – cleavage (after the sweeper) (4th to 2nd gear) some of those corners require very heavy braking (200ish kmh to 70-80kmh in around 80-90 metres) and more rear braking is the last thing you are wanting more of

I’ve done a fair few track days with braided lines, AP 600 fluid and harder front pads and stock rear pads. The fronts (pads and rotors) have been replaced numerous times, the rears have been replaced at over 100,000km (I think it was the first time they’ve ever been done). When my shocks were on their way out I was starting to pitch quite heavily under braking (front down, tail up) and was even 3-wheeling at some points.

While I admire your forethought I think that spending lots of $$ on vastly improving the rear brakes would be better of spent on other areas.

[roar]

i recommend this:

-dc2r front calipers
-DBA478 sized slotted rotors (282mm) redrilled to 4x100 or drilled from blank would be preferable)
-slotted rear rotors for vtir
-good pads all round...at bare minimum ebc greenstuff
-ITR brake booster + master brake cylinder
- dot 5.1 brake fluid (1L will set u back over 60$)
- braided brake lines (optional)
- if you want some more bling cusco master brake cylinder stopper

[TECDUP]

"smudge" If i could i would give you a +rep
That is the kind of answer i was looking for, although i wanted to change the rear it was only because i thought it would be beneficial, it took almost a week for somebody to give me a good answer as to why i shouldn't. other people said not to worry about it but didn't really tell me why it wasn't needed. It wasn't until i was told that if i did upgrade that i ran the risk of the rear locking up because the braking power was too much...

"smudge," your answer is very helpful and i appreciate it, i think that this will help a lot of other people in the future with similar ideas to mine
I thank everyone for their input and as stated above i hove chosen to keep the rear standard, for the fronts i have chose to fit larger rotors and i found early model CRV front calipers that fit like a dream and EBC Blue stuff pads so all in all should pull up well.

"roar" in my research trying to find answers, i found that although slotted rotors have many purposes imo i don't think that they a really necessary and once expressing this dealing with a lot of suppliers, some have agreed and some disagreed. I think that if anything they are more of a bling factor, especially on the rears. i can understand if your car is heavily tracked and you do a lot of mountain work being very heavy on the brakes but for the average track car, (again this is my opinion so don't flame me) i think all they do is eat your pads faster, they don't last as long as what normal rotors would and they are more expensive to replace.

"roar" you and others have mentioned to install the ITR brake booster. I have been told that the vtir's have the largest brake booster, what is the difference between the ITR booster and mine on the vtir's?

[nd55]

[Warning: Internet mechnic in the area]

> what is the difference between the ITR booster and mine on the vtir's?

Not sure on the spec of vtir.

ITR has 1 inch master cylinder and a Brake booster to match.

Honda makes brake master cylinders in 13/16, 7/8, 15/16 and the daddy of them all ITR with 1 inch.

The larger MCs push more fluid around which the larger brake calipers require.

Go with large 57mm piston ITR calipers on a relatively small MC and your pedal will go to the
floor because the MC can't push enough fluid out.

You can visually determine what size yours is by looking at the side of the master cylinder. There'll be a number corresponding to the size of MC cast into the side.

13/16, 7/8 and 15/16 MC are interchangeable and have the same brake booster bolt pattern.

1 inch varieties - seem to be a few different versions, ABS/non-ABS and different hard line ports.

Nick.

[nd55]

[Warning: Internet mechnic in the area]

> My car is only used for daily at the moment, but i am slowly preparing it for the track so just a nice set of pads wont be enough

IMHO 1, pad upgrade will be enough. Just choose pads wisely.

IMHO 2, ITR upgrade might feel better, but braking distances may well go up, because you're
moving more of the braking onto the already maxed out front tyre.
Benefit of ITR upgrade is less heat buildup. Not an issue on the road.

IMHO 3, ITR calipers are huge and HEAVY! All that unsprung weight is going to affect your traction going down Sydney's goat tracks .... I mean roads.
Less of an issue on a smooth track of course.

> i want to do the upgrade

No better reason needed.

Despite everything I've said, I'm doing the same. go figure!

Nick.