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I'm trying out the JDM DC5R intake plenum as well as the CL7 Euro R intake plenum, we'll see how it goes along with custom headers and ECU.....
The shorter runners delivers power @ around 6000 RPM and hence with our rev limiter, we are restricted to 1400RPM to play with on the powerband... This will be interesting....
146.8Kws @ Wheels Diesel CL9 Euro (SOLD), 2009 Honda VT Shadow, NC PRHT Mazda MX-5, Boxing SG Forester, Honda Civic Sport RenaultSport RS265 Trophy+
Team Yum Cha Daily - The Dim Sum Revolution
OzHonda's Public Relations Guru
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 Originally Posted by EuroAccord13
I'm trying out the JDM DC5R intake plenum as well as the CL7 Euro R intake plenum, we'll see how it goes along with custom headers and ECU.....
The shorter runners delivers power @ around 6000 RPM and hence with our rev limiter, we are restricted to 1400RPM to play with on the powerband... This will be interesting....
if you get yours installed before me ull have to tell me everything!
don't forget if you using the JDM DC5 intake, i think youll need an adaptor for the water bypass on the block?
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what ecu can i use for auto car with k20 head swap valve spring, and cam change. will the stock ecu with vafc able to run
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VAFC will only allow alteration of your A/F ratio and VTEC engagement points. A good tuner will be able to work out the best combination of these two parameters.
It is unable to alter ignition timing and control which alone can make good gains for the car.
146.8Kws @ Wheels Diesel CL9 Euro (SOLD), 2009 Honda VT Shadow, NC PRHT Mazda MX-5, Boxing SG Forester, Honda Civic Sport RenaultSport RS265 Trophy+
Team Yum Cha Daily - The Dim Sum Revolution
OzHonda's Public Relations Guru
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just wanted to show off how sexy the RBC is 
lol
oh and i finally found an engine cover for it! after days and days of trawling the net!
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 Originally Posted by aaronng
You also need pistons, rods, pins and other goodies in the block. Otherwise the engine won't last spinning to over 8000rpm.
sorry but thats incorrect, depending on what kind of car the motor is in.
keep in mind there are 4 types of k24's, k24a1/k24a2/k24a3/k24a4
k24a1's have the weakest bottom ends of all k24's, these are not recommended to be revved above 7900, and are weak motors, these come in bottom of the line CRV's(i think). the other's have stronger rods and pistons and can be taken up to approx 8200-8300 depending on other mods.
all that is needed to make a k24a2/a3/a4 rev all the way up to 9000rpm is forged rods and pistons. then again, you must remember that alot more work ontop of that must be done to make power all the way there ei. high end cams.
there is alot of information on this very subject at k20a.org
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 Originally Posted by LUD35
sorry but thats incorrect, depending on what kind of car the motor is in.
keep in mind there are 4 types of k24's, k24a1/k24a2/k24a3/k24a4
k24a1's have the weakest bottom ends of all k24's, these are not recommended to be revved above 7900, and are weak motors, these come in bottom of the line CRV's(i think). the other's have stronger rods and pistons and can be taken up to approx 8200-8300 depending on other mods.
all that is needed to make a k24a2/a3/a4 rev all the way up to 9000rpm is forged rods and pistons. then again, you must remember that alot more work ontop of that must be done to make power all the way there ei. high end cams.
there is alot of information on this very subject at k20a.org
You're saying the same thing that I said. Take a stock K24A3 block, put on aggressive cams and Type R valve springs to prevent valve float and tune the ECU, you'll still get a hole in the block after revving it to 9000rpm say once a day for a month or two.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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ok cool im glad my information is correct
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 Originally Posted by aaronng
You're saying the same thing that I said.  Take a stock K24A3 block, put on aggressive cams and Type R valve springs to prevent valve float and tune the ECU, you'll still get a hole in the block after revving it to 9000rpm say once a day for a month or two.
I agreed with aaronng, if you search again on k20a.org there are a lot of discussion of k24a no matter which type, a2 or a1 can't really stand above 8000 rpm since the piston contact clearance unless rods and the crankshaft are to be replaced.
Just for reminder about the RBC , it has been discussed and tested already that can only works with aggressive cams in k24 engine. Stock k24 engine will suffer low and mid range power however the small gain will appear on top. However RBC to be found to produced higher output with combining with aggressive cams compare to other Honda's intake manifold. Anyway good luck, keep us posted.
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at 7500rpm the K24s pistons are travelling at the same speed as the K20s doing 8500rpm... therefore, yes it'd probably destroy the engine doing 9000rpm... but im not looking at increasing rev limit... i am just talking about getting intake, skunk2 stage 2 cams, and ecu reflash...
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 Originally Posted by EUR003act
at 7500rpm the K24s pistons are travelling at the same speed as the K20s doing 8500rpm... therefore, yes it'd probably destroy the engine doing 9000rpm... but im not looking at increasing rev limit... i am just talking about getting intake, skunk2 stage 2 cams, and ecu reflash...
The way cams work is to alter the point at which peak torque occurs. Since the Euro makes peak power at 6800rpm and peak torque at 4500rpm, you can expect that when you shift peak torque up to 6000rpm, you can make more power at over 8000rpm.
Assuming that you manage to push say 223Nm at 6800rpm using the stage 2 cams, that's only still 158.7kW. Say you lose some torque and hit only 200Nm but at 8000rpm, that is still 167.5kW!
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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RBC Intake Manifold anyone?
Time for a sandwich plate 
Last edited by EuroAccord13; 26-11-2007 at 07:58 PM.
146.8Kws @ Wheels Diesel CL9 Euro (SOLD), 2009 Honda VT Shadow, NC PRHT Mazda MX-5, Boxing SG Forester, Honda Civic Sport RenaultSport RS265 Trophy+
Team Yum Cha Daily - The Dim Sum Revolution
OzHonda's Public Relations Guru
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