Camber kits (and poor design)

[DLO01]

Those K sport ones like like my Skunk2 ones. I am not sure what Skunk 2 arms you have but my 4 bolts on the plate are flush with the plate.

Yes you might get a little more clearance from the stock arms, also the stock arms are 'thinner' than the square Skunk2 items, maybe this is why is did not happen. But it also depends on how big a bump you hit then and now.

You can't dis the Skunk2 item. It is perfectly fine and does the job that its intended to. Its when a car is excecively lowered that can damage the arm and the camber adjusting tracks, which is what this thread is about.

[civicem1]

Ahhhh dammmmmmn! I knew i should've paid a bit more for the pro series. The ones I have aren't pro series and do NOT have that metal plate. Them skunk2 look fine to me, but i wouldn't reccommend the non-pro ones.

[DLO01]

Yeh, ok man, I see now.

Seems like the revised Pro series are the much better item then.

Sorry, glad we sorted it out though.

[Zdster]

As DL001 said, sounds like you are running the older style arms. I would definetly try to replace them.

[BlitZ]

great thread..

are the ball type ones harder to adjust and more time consuming?

[BlitZ]

any comments on ball type stuff like this stuff on egay..
apart from boot tearing?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-00...spagenameZWDVW

[dynosaur]

As SiReal said, it really depends on the design. Here is another camber kit for a civic which eliminates the issue altogether:

does anybody know where could we get this camber kit ?

suit DC2R use ?

thanks for the info's

[bennjamin]

does anybody know where could we get this camber kit ?

suit DC2R use ?

thanks for the info's

that kit is for a EK only.
DC and EG use a slightly different front upper control arm, mounting points to the chassis are facing UP instead of SIDEWAYS.

Im sure you can find something similar for a DC2R

[DLO01]

Just some other feedback on the skunk 2 front upper control arms.

Make sure you re-tighten the 4 hex bolts on the sliding plate after 1000kms or so.

I was hearing a clunking sound from mine at slow speed turning and it turns out it was a loose plate in which it was sliding.

The problem is because the arm is painted. This of course over time has compressed and therefore the bolts have come loose.

This is why I always tell people not to paint a mateing surface, like the wheel mounting face on your hub.

[EKVTIR-T]

The skunks design is its flaw.

Some of the other brands use different adjustment set ups which eliminate any weakness in the adjustment mechanism.

[DLO01]

The design of the current front upper control arm is fine and there is no 'weakness' in the adjustment arm. Please read the discussions.

We have discussed in this thread that the 'Pro' (new and revised) is better that the old 'classic' front upper control arm. I have never had a problem with my arms.

Problems will occur with 'both' of these arms if your car is excessivly lowered. When going over a bump the arm will clash under the tower and damage the arm. The photos of damaged Skunk 2 arms shown are a result of this. It does not matter what arm you use, it should not by striking it at all. Some arms have a lower profile than the Skunk item which will help a little.

[EKVTIR-T]

I have read plenty of discussions but thats irrelevant.
The adjustment style on both versions of skunk are far from great.
I understand your need to defend them as your bought them and I know yours are fine but why settle for those if there are other styles which are better designed?
Safety first ey.Why take the risk.