Is my car worth modding??

[AzKik-R]

there's nothing wrong with modifying a carby engine. the americans are able to make 170whp with relatively light and cheap mods. you can buy engine kits at from the sponsors at www.onecamonly.com for dirt cheap. the kits make it relatively easy to get the compression ratio in the 13s for less than a grand, as well as improving durability and the ability to cope with up to 10krpm. if you head down this path, you can match the power of a b16a, and it will cost less than doing a conversion to one. plus you get the better atomisation rate of a carby.

thats soo awesome, yankee's can do 170whp, did they mention that's for a v8? hahaha
ps. i also dont think you can improve reliability by increasing the compression, this increases wear and tear, and this reduces reliability. also, reving to 10k? if this were more reliable, dont you think the dc5R would rev this high?

[SeverAMV]

@IZY-10 - ahh, but the 14.00 second quarter mile timesheet speaks for itself, especially when its run consistently.

@AzKik-R - its not from a v8, its from a d15b4 jdm with a quad 45mm weber conversion, full high compression kit, new valvetrain and new cams running a compression ratio in the 12s.
and theres a difference between factory components and aftermarket components. factory components in a dc5r are tuned in case the owner accidently puts in 91 octane fuel instead of the 98 stuff. once its tuned properly with the right internals, they can go much higher. as an example, one of the spoon sports tuned integras run well into the 11k. and since the parts are more durable, yes, they can handle the higher compression. if it were just shaving the block, then yes, it would be more unreliable, but its replacing almost every component as well as throwing in a block guard. its also still an atmo so it wont be under as much stress as a turbo'd engine.

[IZY-10]

If a carby motor is so good why aren't car manufacturers still using them? The car probably weighs nothing. If you have the same mods to a EFI motor i wonder witch would make more power???

[SeverAMV]

rushi on www.onecamonly.com has a similar setup except on an efi motor in the same chassis. only makes about 8whp more. but its not so much about the power, its moreso about the response you can obtain from such a setup. and yes, they do it without vtec as well, as vtec is somewhat restrictive after a while on a performance basis in an sohc motor (its only really good on a dohc motor).

only reason why people dont use carby motors in new cars nowadays is because theyre not good at adapting to situations (like temp change), whereas with efi, the computer can adjust accordingly.

and carbs do atomise better. it would take a turbo and approximately 3 feet of intake piping to match the atomisation rate of a weber carburetor. the better the atomisation rate, the better the contact between air and fuel, which leads to better combustion and potentially more power.

[JohnL]

If a carby motor is so good why aren't car manufacturers still using them? The car probably weighs nothing. If you have the same mods to a EFI motor i wonder witch would make more power???

Mostly because it's impossible to meet modern emission control requirements with carbies. If it wasn't for the imposition of stricter and stricter emission controls then we'd still mostly be using carburettors, at least on cheaper cars.

And even with more expensive cars, the injection wouldn't be either as good or as reasonably priced as it is now mostly due to the development the manufacturer's have been forced to undertake to meet emissions on their mass market cars.

[JohnL]

and carbs do atomise better. it would take a turbo and approximately 3 feet of intake piping to match the atomisation rate of a weber carburetor. the better the atomisation rate, the better the contact between air and fuel, which leads to better combustion and potentially more power.

Not my understanding. One of the attractions of fuel injection is the superior atomisation compared to even very good carburettors. With injection you have fuel being pumped at fairly high pressure through a tiny orifice, and this creates good atomisation. With carbies you have fuel being 'pushed' through a number of larger orifices only by the pressure differential between atmospheric pressure in the float bowl (higher) and venturi pressure (lower).

This pressure differential with a carby is way less than the pressure in the injection rail, and accompanied with the larger orifices through which the fuel passes results in poor atomisation compared to injection. .

[JohnL]

well if your actually serious..............................
canon mufflers a a waste of time

'Cannon' mufflers, or at least the cannon exit from the muffler are a waste of time on anything. You don't need the outlet to be much if any bigger than the muffler inlet.

Those 'cannons' mark you as a bit of a poser to more serious people who know that they are only for show and actually do nothing (you won't see exhaust tips nearly as large as some of those cannon ends on a serious racer, even with a large capacity). Having said that the cannon end doesn't actually hurt, so long as the muffler to which it's attached is basically a good muffler.

with a carby car cause they need more back pressure,

Lack of back pressure (i.e. a non restrictive exhaust) is important to any application where power is important and noise less so. Makes no difference if injected or carburreted

[cristian]

'Cannon' mufflers, or at least the cannon exit from the muffler are a waste of time on anything. You don't need the outlet to be much if any bigger than the muffler inlet.

X2


i'm currently running 4-2-1 x-force headers, stock cat, custom 2.25" catback...its no cannon but it sounds ok...

when i still had the stock header the sound was a bit more raspy...but with the new headers the sound is more warm and round...




i've just done the baking tray mod (hehehe) and fiddled around with the bracket that holds the throttle cable and got my idle sitting at 1100...
it goes nice with the lower pressure exhaust...

u'll be happy with the difference in response

[AzKik-R]

@IZY-10 - ahh, but the 14.00 second quarter mile timesheet speaks for itself, especially when its run consistently.

@AzKik-R - its not from a v8, its from a d15b4 jdm with a quad 45mm weber conversion, full high compression kit, new valvetrain and new cams running a compression ratio in the 12s.
and theres a difference between factory components and aftermarket components. factory components in a dc5r are tuned in case the owner accidently puts in 91 octane fuel instead of the 98 stuff. once its tuned properly with the right internals, they can go much higher. as an example, one of the spoon sports tuned integras run well into the 11k. and since the parts are more durable, yes, they can handle the higher compression. if it were just shaving the block, then yes, it would be more unreliable, but its replacing almost every component as well as throwing in a block guard. its also still an atmo so it wont be under as much stress as a turbo'd engine.

hmmm, I'm a little lost here, how many new cams are you putting into the sohc engine? I think off hand if my memory serves me right, you can only put 1 in there? (I may be wrong here)
and the other statement that has me baffled is are these really 'light and cheap mods'?
and what sort of light mods would i need to get my b18cr up to 10k rpm? I think it might need me to open the engine up, and change some parts? I cant really see that as being a cheap or a light mod?
further to this is.... my b18c dc2r does i think mid 14's down the 1/4 mile. thats the 1.8l, and here you have the 1.5l running 14's. I'm almost considering doing an engine swap with my type r engine, and drop in a d15b4, seams to be the superior of the two

[m0nty ITR]

if u love ur existing car and wan it to be fast and not get laughed at by these guys.. put in a b16.. or even a b18.. no point modifying a carby.. i use to have a carby lancer.. i did the exterior up.. all was all show no go.. i got sick and went honda with b16.. it moved up into a new lvl..

go to honda B series.. u get respect and u will nv regret..

Ahhh, the CC Lancer GL. That 4G15 made slow look fast.

[SeverAMV]

when i still had the stock header the sound was a bit more raspy...but with the new headers the sound is more warm and round...

i've just done the baking tray mod (hehehe) and fiddled around with the bracket that holds the throttle cable and got my idle sitting at 1100...
it goes nice with the lower pressure exhaust...

u'll be happy with the difference in response

i bought the megan racing extractors that were listed for $17 on ebay. pretty darn good for $17, altho as expected, theres a limit to how much you can gain on a 1.5L motor. i love how nice the induction sounds with the baking tray mod, it really roars with the extractors and exhaust. and thru experimenting with the same throttle cable that you've started playing around with, i notice you can get the carb throats to open up a little bit more, which made me think they didnt let it open up fully to begin with to keep th power down. on my motor, i removed the choke cable and bumped the idle up to 1100, so my car doesnt stall when cold starting, and so i dont get the added restrictiveness of a choke cable. i noticed on mine when tracking it that if i had the idle set at 1500rpm, the power comes on much more freely, probably because i dont have to go thru any of the lag i would normally have to in the 1-2krpm range.

hmmm, I'm a little lost here, how many new cams are you putting into the sohc engine? I think off hand if my memory serves me right, you can only put 1 in there? (I may be wrong here)
and the other statement that has me baffled is are these really 'light and cheap mods'?
and what sort of light mods would i need to get my b18cr up to 10k rpm? I think it might need me to open the engine up, and change some parts? I cant really see that as being a cheap or a light mod?
further to this is.... my b18c dc2r does i think mid 14's down the 1/4 mile. thats the 1.8l, and here you have the 1.5l running 14's. I'm almost considering doing an engine swap with my type r engine, and drop in a d15b4, seams to be the superior of the two

1 cam, just sounds better when i say cams. and yeah, its relatively cheap mods since you can get the parts for under 1k, and labour will be under 1k as well, and from most places, it includes dyno tuning (carbs are much easier to dyno tune). compared to around 5k minimum-ish for a b16a conversion, yeah, its pretty cheap and good bang per buck. for a dc2r, its not cheap because everything costs an arm and a leg for a dc2r or dc5r, for a nearly 20 year old civic, parts are dirt cheap, like $10 strut braces and traction bars, $500 coilovers, and the other day, i found someone selling 4-2-1 megan racing extractors (stainless steel), plus stainless steel catback exhaust system for $50. look around on ebay, you'd be suprised how cheap you can get parts for a civic.
and the reason why these cars can run such good quarter mile times is because they weigh around 825kg from the factory, stripped out you can get close to 700kg chassis weight, altho without a stripped chassis, it will probably run mid to high 14s. i've tried to keep weight down in my car by going without a sub, and with soundstream tarantulas, i dont really need a sub.

[AzKik-R]

how bout....
for $7500 why doesn't someone just buy this?
http://www.automarket.com.au/vehicle...hicleNo=254605
hmmm, must be a typo or something!!!