Mate, sounds seriously like you've effectively turned a servicable car into scrap metal. I get the distinct impression you have absolutely no idea how much work and expense will be involved in what you want to do. I can almost guarantee you'll abandon this half way through, unless you're very bloody minded about it. Problem is you're already way past the point of no return...
Think first, hack second!
PS The only reasonable way out of this is to try and find all the bits you're going to need to replace everything you've cut up from a wrecker. Making up all new lines etc is going to cost a bomb relative to the value of the car, not even considering the amount of work that will be involved.
Mate, sounds seriously like you've effectively turned a servicable car into scrap metal. I get the distinct impression you have absolutely no idea how much work and expense will be involved in what you want to do. I can almost guarantee you'll abandon this half way through, unless you're very bloody minded about it. Problem is you're already way past the point of no return...
Think first, hack second!
PS The only reasonable way out of this is to try and find all the bits you're going to need to replace everything you've cut up from a wrecker. Making up all new lines etc is going to cost a bomb relative to the value of the car, not even considering the amount of work that will be involved.
im pretty sure the shit i cut up wasnt useable anyway..
and im sure finding a donor car would be the way to get the lines back..
or just get copper tubes running back to the calipers from the engine baybrake booster...
relax mate its my fun, i knwo what im getting into.. no need to tell me dad.. its really ok. i made a thread to get some idea's and help.. not to be given a lecture.
but thanks for ur input
what you wanna do is re run the hardlines that you chopped, with braided ones
you should have hardlines coming out of the master cylinder, into the prop valve, then hardlines from prop valve leading to each corner..
it seems like youve only hacked away the lines running from the master cylinder to hte prop valve.. just replace those with braided lines. buying the tool to do hardlines is just gonna cost you more if you're only replacing the lines from master cylinder to prop valve.
msn me if u need help boy
Last edited by zco; 09-01-2008 at 01:02 AM.
12.949 @ 107.71mph 2.063 60ft on Advan AD08 EKK20A 142.9kw on 98ron
oh shit cuz.. i just read the first post again. you ripped out everything from teh engine bay ? fock me dead.. . might aswell relocate your propvalve exactly what tony's posted ..
you need the tool from summit racing and do the lines again.. run hardlines all over..
its a bitch to unbolt the lines, but i think you gave in too easily.. should use the locking clamp/pliers next time. they work wonders. no damage to the nuts either
12.949 @ 107.71mph 2.063 60ft on Advan AD08 EKK20A 142.9kw on 98ron
im pretty sure the shit i cut up wasnt useable anyway..
and im sure finding a donor car would be the way to get the lines back..
or just get copper tubes running back to the calipers from the engine baybrake booster...
relax mate its my fun, i knwo what im getting into.. no need to tell me dad.. its really ok. i made a thread to get some idea's and help.. not to be given a lecture.
but thanks for ur input
OK, but I got the impresssion you'd cut just about every hard line on the car. New lines can be made from steel or copper tubing (the steel tube is plated of course). Copper is by far the easiest to fit to the car due to it's ease of bending etc, steel is a lot more awkward. I have some vague recollection that if the car originally had steel tubes from the factory then legally you might be required to use steel tubing not copper.
If this correct (and I'm not certain but it's something you ought to check), it's a drag since copper is perfectly servicable in this application (be aware though that not just any copper tube is OK, it has to be hydraulic pressure tube made to cope with the pressures involved)
Either way, having a few tubes made up will be a relatively reasonable cost, having a lot made up will quickly become very costly. If you need to make up a lot of tubes then it might be more economic to purchase the necessary flaring tool and all the fittings and tubing you need and make them up yourself??? Research required I would think.
im re-doing my entire hardlines with SS Hardline.. heres my input. Most people are on the money with there comments.
It is going to cost a lot..
I bought fittings and 20 foot of line which cost around $200. Not to mention it's not ADR approved, so will need to be engineered if i want it on the road.
Also need to get a flare tool, tubing bender and something to cut the tube with, the tools im looking at are about $150 for the lot... On-top of that you have a chance of leakage.. That said, the time and effort it will take to make these lines..
Im re-doing my as im tucking my brake lines and re-locating the prop valve under the dash.
Check this thread out..
DIY: how to tuck your brakelines: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2103425
Doing your own is a possibility.
Paying a brake specialist to do them is another option.
Or you could source the lines from the same car.
Originally Posted by destrukshn
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