dc5r q's

[air23box]

Maybe change your pod back to a stock box. When I had my stock DC5R, it revved very quick, it had better response than my SRI. I always thought b16a's revved slow, but yours was a b16b

I 2nd that.....the pod is going to suck up all the hot air from ur extractor.....stock airbox is better...or get a CAI.....coilovers and sway does mark some big difference in terms of handling.....then some basic I/H/E will mark you feel like driving a different car......with lightweight fly and clutch will be even better........After I got mine done.......all I can say......its a totally different car....

[steebs]

+1 for sussy mods =]
u wont regret it

[BusterSonic12]

if u just wanna rev it higher, why not just change to a aftermarket ECU? i m sure the engine can handle up to 9,000rpm in first gear for a second. Don't over do it tho, but 1 or 2 times a day on first gear, i reckon the k20 will hold.

ps: what are the spec on the mugen N1 ecu? is it reprogrammable? which is better, mugen N1 or hondata k pro?

[air23box]

Mugen N1 have 2 models....
1. 5250/8600
2. 5250/9200
they are not reprogrammable....its a complete reflash......
You can't compare Kpro and Mugen N1.......coz they are different...one is plug and play and the other one is reprogrammable.....
I have mugen myself coz most of my parts are mugen.....I reckon they work together well.....but with other brand of parts Kpro may work better......coz Mugen N1 is tune for mugen parts for N1 races....and the result with other brand may not as good as what you expect....What I think its all up to you.....but I like mugen so if you ask me I will say mugen is better....lol......anyway....hope this help...

[onabuzz]

hey guys been a big help. i think first stop will be clutch and fly, then sus then ecu! im going to keep stock wheels on there just lower it, to be different. any one wanting to get rid of any stuff, feel free to pm me me

[45SET]

you'll notice a big differance if you change the rims.

Stock tyre size is 205/55/16, if you get 17x7's you'll put 225/45/17 tyres on, which with the added width, and smaller side wall make a fairly big differance.

As for getting a ECU as your first engine mod... unless you like having to retune your car after every mod you get, eg intake... headers... catback... etc... i would recommend you sit down and do a fair bit of research into what you are going to buy, because some mods can work with the stock ECU where as other need a ECU to operate properly, and decide if your going to:
a) Get the ECU tuned for a stock car, then retune after every engine mod
b) Get the ECU tuned for a stock car, then buy the rest of your mods, get them fitted all at once, and have one retune.
c) Get mods that are compatable with the stock ECU, then get the aftermarket ECU and have them all tuned at once (only thing you would worry about would be headers, most STREET intakes and catbacks will work with stock ECU)

As for suspension... please do ALOT of research in that department also, as some things work and others don't.

But yeah... its time to read as much about moded DC5r's as possible.

Good luck.

[tectalk]

you'll notice a big differance if you change the rims.

Stock tyre size is 205/55/16, if you get 17x7's you'll put 225/45/17 tyres on, which with the added width, and smaller side wall make a fairly big differance.

As for getting a ECU as your first engine mod... unless you like having to retune your car after every mod you get, eg intake... headers... catback... etc... i would recommend you sit down and do a fair bit of research into what you are going to buy, because some mods can work with the stock ECU where as other need a ECU to operate properly, and decide if your going to:
a) Get the ECU tuned for a stock car, then retune after every engine mod
b) Get the ECU tuned for a stock car, then buy the rest of your mods, get them fitted all at once, and have one retune.
c) Get mods that are compatable with the stock ECU, then get the aftermarket ECU and have them all tuned at once (only thing you would worry about would be headers, most STREET intakes and catbacks will work with stock ECU)

As for suspension... please do ALOT of research in that department also, as some things work and others don't.

But yeah... its time to read as much about moded DC5r's as possible.

Good luck.

Hmm i agree with 45SET he is 100% correct would b a huge hasle to keep retuning ur ecu so just do all the mods you can with out having to touch the ecu then buy a ecu when u want more power, DC5R is all about handling as it is a track car so dont buy cheap suspension get the best u can afford , peace.

[air23box]

Hmm i agree with 45SET he is 100% correct would b a huge hasle to keep retuning ur ecu so just do all the mods you can with out having to touch the ecu then buy a ecu when u want more power, DC5R is all about handling as it is a track car so dont buy cheap suspension get the best u can afford , peace.

I'm with you bro......u dun wanna to buy the same parts twice and sell the 1st one and lost 50% of the price.....Except for Coilovers....what I did was start off with something more street friendly like Tein SS.....then if you find that you wanna to go more track setup you can do some upgrade later ....most likely will be couple of years down the track.......rather then go full hardcore race coilovers then you relise you can't use it on the street or your Mrs keep giving you shit about it.....

[onabuzz]

haha yeahh lack of funds atm.. just realised why i was lacking a bit of power and response, due to the n00bs i bought it off, not tightning all the bolts on the headers. 2 had fallen off and the other 3 were just loose! ahhh much better now but! deff think first is springs, followed by clutch/fly

[BusterSonic12]

haha yeahh lack of funds atm.. just realised why i was lacking a bit of power and response, due to the n00bs i bought it off, not tightning all the bolts on the headers. 2 had fallen off and the other 3 were just loose! ahhh much better now but! deff think first is springs, followed by clutch/fly

go straight to coilovers, not springs. cos if u go springs then later on, u just have to redo it again. just get it right the first time.

Mugen N1 have 2 models....
1. 5250/8600
2. 5250/9200
they are not reprogrammable....its a complete reflash......
You can't compare Kpro and Mugen N1.......coz they are different...one is plug and play and the other one is reprogrammable.....
I have mugen myself coz most of my parts are mugen.....I reckon they work together well.....but with other brand of parts Kpro may work better......coz Mugen N1 is tune for mugen parts for N1 races....and the result with other brand may not as good as what you expect....What I think its all up to you.....but I like mugen so if you ask me I will say mugen is better....lol......anyway....hope this help...

I m guessing the different between the 2 are the different cut off? like 8600rpm and 9200rpm? which one did you get? what mods do you have on the dc5r at the moment?

[tectalk]

go straight to coilovers, not springs. cos if u go springs then later on, u just have to redo it again. just get it right the first time.



I m guessing the different between the 2 are the different cut off? like 8600rpm and 9200rpm? which one did you get? what mods do you have on the dc5r at the moment?

second that get coilovers straight away no need to muck around with springs.

[Dr.k20z1]

haha yeahh lack of funds atm.. just realised why i was lacking a bit of power and response, due to the n00bs i bought it off, not tightning all the bolts on the headers. 2 had fallen off and the other 3 were just loose! ahhh much better now but! deff think first is springs, followed by clutch/fly

thats funny man.. hahahahahahahahahahhahahahhahahahahahahhahahahahah ahah
not tightening the boltssss.. which foooool does that HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

sorry its just funny... gl with the carrr... im broke as too so dw.. i know how u feel haha

if only coilovers were cheaper :P