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							Congrats on the DC5R, I had mine for 5-6 months now.. and i love mine. But i don't have a cut-off at 8000 mine goes all the way to 8700. With my Hondata ecu.. I would suggest you go for a mugen for track thou, They rev at 9200 at cutoff. But it dis-engauges your air-conditioning. So air con won't work with a mugen ecu.. They go for around $1000-$1400.
 I'm happy with my hondata.. CBF getting a mugen, unless i track more. But my car is also my daily drive to work, so air-con is a must !!!
 
 My cars also stock with just a injen CIA, hondata ecu and Zeal Endless XS coilovers. Will go mugen headers and exhaust hopefully by the end of the year.
 
 With your exhaust and headers, your car must be dam loud!!.. thats why i wanna go mugen.. haha
 
 anyways all the best with you and your DC5R. i just got my front and back bumoper resprayed... "alot of melbourne drivers can't drive!"
 
				
                                       
                                 
				
		        		pitch black, you dunno where you are... don't even think about overtaking...
 
	
	
		
		
			
				
				
						
						
				
					
						
							haha thanks guys! yeh i deff need my aircon! will look into hondata within the next couple of months! i cant stand 8000 cut off. any one know where i would be able to get ahold of jdm cams n springs? would want to do it all at once with the ecu..
						 
	
	
		
		
			
				
				
						
						
				
					
						
							jdm dc5r hasnt got 180kw, its 167, and aussie one is 147kw. toda catback as well as headers has best power gains. u get wat u pay for. xforce has actually decreased power in some cases. and yea 15s are a joke on a dc5.
						 
	
	
		
		
			
				
				
						
						
				
					
						
							mugen ecu is complete garbage. hondata all the way. just because an ecu has a rev limit to 9200, doesnt mean the car is actually making power from say about 8700. besides with a hondata u can make your rev limit to wat u want. as long a it makes logical sense and makes power.
						 
	
	
		
		
			
				
				
						
						
				
					
						
							
	Think again and do some research b4 you post.....Mugen ECU do work with air-con.......
		
			
			
				
					  Originally Posted by Mikes_DC5R   Congrats on the DC5R, I had mine for 5-6 months now.. and i love mine. But i don't have a cut-off at 8000 mine goes all the way to 8700. With my Hondata ecu.. I would suggest you go for a mugen for track thou, They rev at 9200 at cutoff. But it dis-engauges your air-conditioning. So air con won't work with a mugen ecu.. They go for around $1000-$1400.
 I'm happy with my hondata.. CBF getting a mugen, unless i track more. But my car is also my daily drive to work, so air-con is a must !!!
 
 My cars also stock with just a injen CIA, hondata ecu and Zeal Endless XS coilovers. Will go mugen headers and exhaust hopefully by the end of the year.
 
 With your exhaust and headers, your car must be dam loud!!.. thats why i wanna go mugen.. haha
 
 anyways all the best with you and your DC5R. i just got my front and back bumoper resprayed... "alot of melbourne drivers can't drive!"
  
 
 
 
	Whats the point spending extra $$ going backwards and getting OEM stuff.....I will just upgrade to toda cams and springs and consider the $$ you paying is not that much different...
		
			
			
				
					  Originally Posted by onabuzz   haha thanks guys! yeh i deff need my aircon! will look into hondata within the next couple of months! i cant stand 8000 cut off. any one know where i would be able to get ahold of jdm cams n springs? would want to do it all at once with the ecu.. 
 
 
 
	Have you seat in one with Mugen ECU? please respect others and dun make any post if you dun know what its like......Mugen is a plug and play compare to hondata which is tunable.......they are different product.....I dun see if you are a shit driver,.......by putting hondata in ur car will make you a pro.....All I wanna to say is Mugen may not be the best in the market but since I use it till now I can tell there is difference between stock and Mugen....and its really noticable......and Hondata is a good product too.......
		
			
			
				
					  Originally Posted by bartek   mugen ecu is complete garbage. hondata all the way. just because an ecu has a rev limit to 9200, doesnt mean the car is actually making power from say about 8700. besides with a hondata u can make your rev limit to wat u want. as long a it makes logical sense and makes power.   
	
	
		
			
			
				You know you want too...
			
			
			
			
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							i know of a guy who is running the mugen ecu, with an x force exhaust with extractors and some random intake and i saw him run a 13.6 at WSID a few weeks back
						 
	
	
		
		
			
				
				
						
						
				
					
						
							dont have a spez attack. mugen aint worth the money, and have actually seat in one with it, and hondata shits all over it my friend. ppl buy parts to have the best possible power for the money they spent, unlike u being fooled by its name. dont comment on my driving as u dnt know me.
						 
	
	
		
		
			
				
				
						
						
				
					
						
							fujitsubo powergetter for the win!!!
						 
				
                                       
                                 
				
		        		HORSEPOWER is how hard you hit the wall. TORQUE is how far you go through it!
 
	
	
		
		
			
				
				
						
						
				
					
						
							
	
		
			
			
				
					  Originally Posted by air23box    Whats the point spending extra $$ going backwards and getting OEM stuff.....I will just upgrade to toda cams and springs and consider the $$ you paying is not that much different... Please explain on how it is going backwards?? As far as I know stock K20A2 makes 147 KW (AUDM DC5) and JDM K20A's make 160 KW stock. I'd say the difference would be higher with I/H/E. It is common knowledge that there is 10 - 15 KW difference ATW.
 
 Upgrading to Toda cams and springs cost $$ More labour to insert springs, need heavy duty tensioner etc.......need ECU to run aswell......and IMHO theres about 3k's difference in gettin Toda V JDM, hows that 'Not that much difference?
 
 As far as I know, you can run the JDM cams without ecu change (correct me if Im wrong), without spring change and they can be had for under $500. Obviously up to the individual on how much they want to spend of course.
 
 Dont get me wrong, Toda upgrade is great, but not everyone wants to spend 4k's on a N/A upgrade.
 
 Just thought people should know other forms of mild upgrades without thinking that they'll have to spend heaps.
 
 Peace
   
	
	
		
		
			
				
				
						
						
				
					
						
							
	Hey Man, I'm just saying from what i heard. And i was thinking of buying a Mugen ECU at one stage. People told me keep my hondata. And i'm glad i did... They just told me air con don't work with mugen ECU... if you have a mugen ecu and air con works. Then hey i'm wrong dude, i said it from what i heard.
		
			
			
				
					  Originally Posted by air23box   Think again and do some research b4 you post.....Mugen ECU do work with air-con.......   
Whats the point spending extra $$ going backwards and getting OEM stuff.....I will just upgrade to toda cams and springs and consider the $$ you paying is not that much different...
 
Have you seat in one with Mugen ECU? please respect others and dun make any post if you dun know what its like......Mugen is a plug and play compare to hondata which is tunable.......they are different product.....I dun see if you are a shit driver,.......by putting hondata in ur car will make you a pro.....All I wanna to say is Mugen may not be the best in the market but since I use it till now I can tell there is difference between stock and Mugen....and its really noticable......and Hondata is a good product too.......  
 All is good, Toda headers and catback hey... hrmz... i want mugen... but now startin to go for what the original owner had... He had toda heads and buddyclub spec 3 exhaust. but **** its loud. prolli go mugen for exhaust, more cruisy i think...
 
 Thanks for the correction
   
				
                                       
                                 
				
		        		pitch black, you dunno where you are... don't even think about overtaking...
 
	
	
		
		
			
				
				
						
						
				
					
						
							You have to take into consideration the difference in compression, changing K20A2 cams to JDM k20a won't turn your k20a2 in to a JDM spec! In saying that i'm sure there would still be increases to be seen
						 
	
	
		
		
			
				
				
						
						
							
						
				
					
						
							
	i think your the one that keens to chill... everyone is differant, and its quiet obvious that he has done his research and decided to go with the Mugen option.  If you would take the time to read air23box's mod list, you would notice that most of his modifications are Mugen, so infact, the Mugen ECU would be a good option, as it optimises what mods he already has.
		
			
			
				
					  Originally Posted by bartek   dont have a spez attack. mugen aint worth the money, and have actually seat in one with it, and hondata shits all over it my friend. ppl buy parts to have the best possible power for the money they spent, unlike u being fooled by its name. dont comment on my driving as u dnt know me. 
 
 
	Same argument for Mugen/plug-&-play ECU vs Hondata.
		
			
			
				Please explain on how it is going backwards?? As far as I know stock K20A2 makes 147 KW (AUDM DC5) and JDM K20A's make 160 KW stock. I'd say the difference would be higher with I/H/E. It is common knowledge that there is 10 - 15 KW difference ATW.
 
Upgrading to Toda cams and springs cost $$ More labour to insert springs, need heavy duty tensioner etc.......need ECU to run aswell......and IMHO theres about 3k's difference in gettin Toda V JDM, hows that 'Not that much difference?
 
As far as I know, you can run the JDM cams without ecu change (correct me if Im wrong), without spring change and they can be had for under $500. Obviously up to the individual on how much they want to spend of course. 
 
Dont get me wrong, Toda upgrade is great, but not everyone wants to spend 4k's on a N/A upgrade.
 
Just thought people should know other forms of mild upgrades without thinking that they'll have to spend heaps.
 
Peace    
 With a Mugen/plug-&-play ECU you plug it in and see the gains stright away.  Where as with a Hondata you have to have the original outlay (which is more then Mugen to start with), then get it tuned... then when ever you do a new mod get it tuned again...
 
 I'm not saying that Mugen/plug-&-play is the best kind of ECU (I'll probably go Hondata if I do change my ECU) but I'm showing the "other side of the coin" and being open minded about the subject (which some of you really need to learn).
 
 Now... play nice kids
   
 
	
	
 
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
		
		
		
		
			
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