i think your the one that keens to chill... everyone is differant, and its quiet obvious that he has done his research and decided to go with the Mugen option. If you would take the time to read air23box's mod list, you would notice that most of his modifications are Mugen, so infact, the Mugen ECU would be a good option, as it optimises what mods he already has.
Same argument for Mugen/plug-&-play ECU vs Hondata.Please explain on how it is going backwards?? As far as I know stock K20A2 makes 147 KW (AUDM DC5) and JDM K20A's make 160 KW stock. I'd say the difference would be higher with I/H/E. It is common knowledge that there is 10 - 15 KW difference ATW.
Upgrading to Toda cams and springs cost $$ More labour to insert springs, need heavy duty tensioner etc.......need ECU to run aswell......and IMHO theres about 3k's difference in gettin Toda V JDM, hows that 'Not that much difference?
As far as I know, you can run the JDM cams without ecu change (correct me if Im wrong), without spring change and they can be had for under $500. Obviously up to the individual on how much they want to spend of course.
Dont get me wrong, Toda upgrade is great, but not everyone wants to spend 4k's on a N/A upgrade.
Just thought people should know other forms of mild upgrades without thinking that they'll have to spend heaps.
Peace![]()
With a Mugen/plug-&-play ECU you plug it in and see the gains stright away. Where as with a Hondata you have to have the original outlay (which is more then Mugen to start with), then get it tuned... then when ever you do a new mod get it tuned again...
I'm not saying that Mugen/plug-&-play is the best kind of ECU (I'll probably go Hondata if I do change my ECU) but I'm showing the "other side of the coin" and being open minded about the subject (which some of you really need to learn).
Now... play nice kids![]()



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