My ED sedan build up **Update Problems**

[sik-vic]

you probably shoulda stuck with a rubber mount kit. the ED6 chassis is getting old, perhaps too old for something that stiff, you may find it will weaken and possibly tear apart your chassis over time.

oh and one other thing, with the skunkies, you may want to invest in a front camber kit. my front is only lowered a little over an inch under stock, but the camber's stepped out to nearly 7 degrees. you cant adjust the camber with the factory camber arm, so yeah.

You cant have a rubber kit in the ed's, the b16 sits so close to the bonnet and the alternator pulley sits really close to the chassis so you cant afford to have any flex in the mounts... pretty rough, it should soften up i hope. As for the chassis strength I cant see it being much of an issue really the car is pretty low k's for its age and its not like there is a massive amount of power there.. only 125kw at the flywheel... Got any pics of the camber?

[sik-vic]

Awesome man!!...
im looking for a EF/ED shell, so that i can so a swap with a crx wreck that i got.
i'll ask you if i run into anything troublesome

I should be able to help quite a bit after doin most of the conversion myself... What location are you? I have a car you may be interested in, pm me if you like.

[mclovin]

hey mate i know what you mean with the vibrations I had an EF hatch which i then fitted a B18C3 into with the exact same mount kit (except my ones were blue).

Being a daily driver i soon got over it as the vibrations at high RPM's were enough to loosen my teeth. I kep the car for a year but the mounts never really felt like they softened up (sorry to be a downer). That was the main reason i sold the car.

Spot on about the rubber mounts, NOT MUCH ROOM FOR MOVEMENT AFTER THIS KIND OF CONVERSION.

How did you go closing the bonnet once the engine was in, not sure if the deck heights of the B16 & B18 are the same.

Heres some pics of my conversion.

[sik-vic]

hey mate i know what you mean with the vibrations I had an EF hatch which i then fitted a B18C3 into with the exact same mount kit (except my ones were blue).

Being a daily driver i soon got over it as the vibrations at high RPM's were enough to loosen my teeth. I kep the car for a year but the mounts never really felt like they softened up (sorry to be a downer). That was the main reason i sold the car.

Spot on about the rubber mounts, NOT MUCH ROOM FOR MOVEMENT AFTER THIS KIND OF CONVERSION.

How did you go closing the bonnet once the engine was in, not sure if the deck heights of the B16 & B18 are the same.

Heres some pics of my conversion.

[/B]

Pretty sure B18's are a bit taller, i can shut the bonnet no problem but its close. I dont know if I'm gonna be able to handle it viabrating..... the motor could definatly do with a tuning tho it is running a bit rough and the idle is set to low which would add to the problem i'm guessing, I wont be doing anything about it until i install my coilovers and put the fixed gearbox back in...

I cant see any pictures??

[mclovin]

sorry havin probs uploadin fotos. will try again

[mclovin]

here are the pics of my conversion. idle is easy to adjust as there is an idle speed screw on the throttle body. cant remember which way to turn it but just try both directions and you will hear the idle either slow down or go faster. i had the exact same prob when i first started my car. Sucks about the gearbox mate, hope it all goes well for you.

[sik-vic]

Cheers mclovin, Its gonna be a lot more work on my hands now, the place i bought it from should pay for my time to remove/replace in my opinion. Its such and inconveniance, imagine if i couldnt do it myself and i had to pay someone... then it would be a shitfight

[mclovin]

sucks when shit like that happens and theres no point even takin it back cause they never want a bar of it. what king of box did you use?? i fitted an LS cable clutch gearbox to mine as ive been told that they are one of the strongest honda brought out. (tore it down and rebuilt it b4 fitting) just cant trust that suppliers have actually tested them.

[sik-vic]

The place i bought it from offered to fix it and send it back to me, i just hope they do it properly and do it quickly, and yea its an s1 gearbox, i think LS ITR, the ratios seem wierd too, when i drove it home on a highway the engine rpm whilst in 5th doing 100km/h was about 3250-3300, seems too high...

[mclovin]

thats the thing, you usually get 1 thing or the other. too quick = bad job, too slow = well do i have to say it. its easy enough to do it urself but y should you.

i found my gear ratio was fine although cant really remember that well.

maybe its cause your using a 1.8l box for a 1.6l.= engine having to work harder to get to those speeds while 1.8 doesnt need to.

[bizee_1]

...and yea its an s1 gearbox, i think LS ITR, the ratios seem wierd too, when i drove it home on a highway the engine rpm whilst in 5th doing 100km/h was about 3250-3300, seems too high...

that seems about right for me. i think 110km/h is about 3700-4000rpm.
i am running the ys1 g/box.

http://www.teirney.net/civic/GearboxRatioReference.htm

[SeverAMV]

You cant have a rubber kit in the ed's, the b16 sits so close to the bonnet and the alternator pulley sits really close to the chassis so you cant afford to have any flex in the mounts... pretty rough, it should soften up i hope. As for the chassis strength I cant see it being much of an issue really the car is pretty low k's for its age and its not like there is a massive amount of power there.. only 125kw at the flywheel... Got any pics of the camber?

ahhh, almost forgot you have a b series motor. my d series should make that much power at the wheels once i get the ignition timing tuned and the new carbs fitted, hehe.

but even with a d series, the alternator sits close to the chassis. its not so much the flex that you would want a rubber kit for, its the absorption. rubber absorbs vibrations which can reduce stress on a lot of parts. at worst, you can always fit rubber mounts and then silkaflex it a little to reduce flex without reducing absorption too much.

it should be okay that the chassis looks good, but its the bits that you cant see that you should be worried about. internal rust is often undetectable until it snaps. altho rubber mounts wont really do much in this case.

oh and i havent got any pictures of the camber on my wheels, but its at 7 degrees at the moment. i'm gonna need a fair bit more castor, as my coilovers seem to increase the effect of some inertial tendencies. good thing about the camber is that it keeps my tread under my guard, so its essentially keeping my car legal.