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  1. #13
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    Oh I see now

    thanks for clearing that up guys, i'm gonna go for the 12" with the ported box. That makes it a complete JBL GTO series speakers all round the car.

  2. #14
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    Oooops, I actually bought the 15" version of it and put it in a Qmax ported box. Intentionally I wanted to get the 12" but oh wells, i want to give the 15" ago

    THanks guys

  3. #15
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    dvc also has better temperature ratings..

    svc pumping 1000watts compared to dvc pumping 1000 watts (both being the same sub)
    will handle heat better..
    and most of the time.. it gives off a lower impedence anyway.
    and if you run a sub off a mono, most monos are more stable at lower ohmages.

    ever tried QVC?
    power acoustic subs =]
    neva tried em though.. but .. its sumfin different

    =]

  4. #16
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    you all seem to be (except for integraz) under the misconception that the bigger a sub, the "laggier" it is... not flaming anyone here but thats an utter load of crap, it all comes down to how well the box is designed and constructed, yeh a 12 and 15 will generally go lower in the frequency range, thats cos its bigger and can move more air, but i beg someone here to go and find me a 10" "subwoofer" that cant play below 28hz, anything below that is probably in some pipe organ music and i doubt anyone here listens to that :P

    so to the op- go the 12, its a good medium, it will have plenty of out put given a decent amount of power and i will probably give you the most enjoyment

  5. #17
    if you compare a cheapo 15 and a branded 12 or 10, of course the 15 would be "laggier"... or a similar price 15 and 12, the 15 is bound to be the cheaper range of sub.

    A good and well design 15 would be able to keep up with the 12, but then you will probably need bigger box, more power, and also more money to spend on the sub.

  6. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mugen Civic View Post
    Oooops, I actually bought the 15" version of it and put it in a Qmax ported box. Intentionally I wanted to get the 12" but oh wells, i want to give the 15" ago

    THanks guys
    qmax ported box hey.. hope that box is tuned & suitable for the sub, let alone optimal for it.
    /////ALPINE - )))morel - dYnaudio - \\Image Dynamics// - audison - optima - co|\|ection audison - stinger - Dynamat

  7. #19
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    qmax ftw

    u no how myn sounded
    sick aye
    "since we're both asian.. I'll look after you and chuck in King Springs with the wheels and tyres for $1050"

  8. #20
    It's not necessary that more expensive 15's will need bigger boxes or need more power etc.

    I find that the more expensive drivers you go they prefer smaller boxes, and also are very efficient.
    Particular SQ subs, which are usually expensive- $500+ for a good one.
    They don't need heaps of power, usually require smaller boxes- but then again this depends on the T/S specs.

    SPL subs, however which again are expensive, do require heaps of power, but with the more power u have the louder they go/shine.

    IMO any sub thats in the $100-$300 range, are pretty much all the same, once you spend more you can really appreciate the quality subs.

    And about SVC and DVC they don't handle the temp ratings any better.

    A Dual voicecoil is essentially a SVC split in two. DVC is good because you can have more flexibility. ie. dual 2ohm- series for 4ohm load to say a 4channel bridged amp, or parrallel-1ohm for a high powered monoblock.

    There are more factors in Heat cooling, such as basket design.

    Again 12's are great all rounders, enough surface area, don't require large boxes/save space.

    If you can fit a larger diameter subwoofer, DO IT, but only when you have maxed out on a quality sub.

    ie/ no point going a 15inch Alpine Type-R, when you can get an Alpine Type-X 12 instead for the same price, which would have better SQ, require a smaller box etc.

    Also IMO- spend as much money as you can on your front speakers, they are the most important. $1000 sub and $200 splits ain't gonna cut it.

  9. #21
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    I still haven't had time to bolt the sub into the box yet. I currently have 2 x 12" subs wired in and when i get sometime most likely this weekend i'll tell you guys of the comparison.

    Basically power wise my 15" is the same as the 2 x 12" put together and my 12" were abit too punchy for my liking. They are in a sealed box thou. I'll be using the same amp and everything.

    My predicitions are that my 15" setup will be hopefully more deeper rumbly but not as loud as the 2 x 12"

    Stay tuned :P
    Attached is the 2 x 12", will post up 15" once compared.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Mugen Civic; 27-02-2008 at 09:52 PM.

  10. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by integraz View Post
    It's not necessary that more expensive 15's will need bigger boxes or need more power etc.
    Very true.... that is when you are comparing different products.

    But when I say the 15" will probably need bigger box, more power then the 12", I was comparing the same sub from the same range by the same manufacturer/make....

    Find me one that is not so......

    Let me put some example here....RF subs.

    RF P1 4ohm subs. (Entry level)
    Power Handling
    12" Punch P1 4-Ohm SVC Subwoofer - 150 Watts RMS 300 Watts Max
    15" Punch P1 4-Ohm SVC Subwoofer - 200 Watts RMS 400 Watts Max

    Rec. Sealed Enclosure (12" Punch P1 4-Ohm SVC Subwoofer)
    1.02 cu. ft. (28.88 liters)
    Range: 0.70 cu. ft. - 1.80 cu. ft.
    Range: (19.82 liters - 50.97 liters)
    Rec. Sealed Enclosure (15" Punch P1 4-Ohm SVC Subwoofer)
    1.58 cu. ft. (44.74 liters)
    Range: 1.30 cu. ft. - 3.50 cu. ft.
    Range: (36.81 liters - 99.10 liters)

    Rec. Vented Enclosure (12" Punch P1 4-Ohm SVC Subwoofer) 1.79 cu. ft. (50.69 liters)
    Rec. Vented Enclosure (15" Punch P1 4-Ohm SVC Subwoofer) 2.66 cu. ft. (75.32 liters)


    RF P3 4ohm subs.
    Power Handling
    12" Punch P3 4-Ohm DVC Subwoofer - 500 Watts RMS 1000 Watts Max
    15" Punch P3 4-Ohm DVC Subwoofer - 500 Watts RMS 1000 Watts Max

    Rec. Sealed Enclosure (12" Punch P1 4-Ohm SVC Subwoofer)
    1.0 cu. ft. (28.88 liters)
    Range: 0.75 cu. ft.- 1.25 cu. ft.
    Range: (21.24 liters - 35.40 liters)
    Rec. Sealed Enclosure (15" Punch P1 4-Ohm SVC Subwoofer)
    1.6 cu. ft. (44.74 liters)
    Range: 1.50 cu. ft. - 3.00 cu. ft.
    Range: (42.48 liters - 84.95 liters)

    Rec. Vented Enclosure (12" Punch P1 4-Ohm SVC Subwoofer) 1.79 cu. ft. (50.69 liters)
    Rec. Vented Enclosure (15" Punch P1 4-Ohm SVC Subwoofer) 2.66 cu. ft. (75.32 liters)



    As you can see, the same sub in the same range, the 15" will need more power and bigger box then the 12".
    Last edited by tron07; 28-02-2008 at 07:47 AM.

  11. #23
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    yea i know what you mean.

    I was only comparing the JBL GTO subs as that was the only thing i was really interested in.

    They are the same spec in everyway except one is 12" and the other 15" and of course the box size they require.

    My Qmax box is actually smaller than what is quoted in the manual but my sound engineer dude said its ok but u just loose alil of the bottom range of frequncy. Like as in it wont be as effitient in the lower frequency. Just a lil sacrifice for some space in the boot i guess.

  12. #24
    personally id go 12" coz they are in between highly responsive and ability to hit the low notes. if u go for a good 12" u'll find that it will provide you with good bass across the range, which something like the Kickers or JL can provide for a pretty good price. if you want swing by JB in livo sometime and i'll get u a good deal for the lot. oh yea, ditch the sony amp if you are going to run the subs with it. at least use a Coustic one or something of the sort. you'll find that spending that extra $50 or so on the amp will make a MASSIVE difference in sound quality and the effect it has on the car (ie drawing of current, overheating issues, size in some cases, etc)

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