XS Turbokit for EK installation diary - Step by Step

[RedVTi]

At this stage, I do not know what will work and what won't work until the exhaust is done and start driving it.

I am sure all of you have good advices

I bought the injectors and pump so it won't lean out and end up cost more to fix. They are not expensive items.

Here is the cost summary to date:

Imported EK with rego $6,300.00

XS T3/T4 Turbokit $1,150.00
Stainless Steel Oil line $90.00
Second intercooler $160.00
3" to 2.5" reducer 90degree $35.00
Apexi AFC Neo $420.00
550cc Injectors -saturated high impedance $200.00
255 LPG Fuel pump $80.00
Sard Fuel regulator $164.00
Cluster console for duel gauges $40.00
Boost gauge & oil temp gauges $80.00
Front strut bar $50.00
Front lower 4 points H bar $90.00
Total : $8,859.00

Custom Exhaust with Xforce items( may use a Varex muffler) TBA
Clutch, pressure plate ( ACT/Exedy) TBA
Flywheel TBA
Brake pads TBA

I need to keep track of the costs because i have two projects running at the same time.

Most importantly, the cost of this project + the car must stay below the cost of an imported EK Type R/VTi-R in order to prove that the statement in my signature is true. Fast EK is both affordable and fun. We have already got another working example but it has a custom turbo kit with expensive parts.

What should be the expected power after all the work is done? 120kw at the wheel? Become a mess and take months to sort out?

Stay tuned.........

Okay, I am going to redo the total spend.

XS T3/T4 Turbokit $1,150.00
Unused kits part sold individually -$850.00
Nissan R33 turbo (spare) $0.00
Stainless Steel Oil line $90.00
Second intercooler $160.00
3" to 2.5" reducer 90degree $35.00
Sard Fuel regulator $164.00
Front strut bar $50.00
Turboback stainless steel exhaust $850.00
Map sensor fix $150.00
Sparco sear with rails $300.00


Total : $2,099


I have spent $2,099 excluding Tim's labour cost to have this civic reaching this level. It is not the running at it is full potential but at least it is boosting smoothly and does not have bad idling. It is like a factory turbo car and it is definitely faster than a Vti-R in straight line. Now I need to install the below parts to reach the next level.

Items not used:

Apexi AFC Neo $420.00 Not yet nstalled
255 LPG Fuel pump $80.00 Not yet installed
Cluster console for duel gauges $40.00 Not yet installed
Boost gauge & oil temp gauges $80.00 Not yet installed
Front lower 4 points H bar $90.00 Not yet installed
Clutch TBA
Radiator TBA
Coilover TBA

550cc Injectors -saturated high impedance $200.00 Now Sold

[EKCivic96]

so not using an ECU at all??

very nice work

[RedVTi]

so not using an ECU at all??

very nice work

Factory ECU.. occasional engine light comes on under hard boost.

Everything looks factory inside still.




Thanks

[Lukezen27]

Factory ECU.. occasional engine light comes on under hard boost.

Everything looks factory inside still.




Thanks

Never new you could run boost with the stock ECU at all lol

[Limbo]

looks like he got around it with the Map sensor Fix.
It tricks the ECU so i thinks its not reading boost.
Not the best option for turbos as you could get alot of detonation.
I'd recommend an ecu

[RedVTi]

looks like he got around it with the Map sensor Fix.
It tricks the ECU so i thinks its not reading boost.
Not the best option for turbos as you could get alot of detonation.
I'd recommend an ecu

What ECU do you recommend? Do you think I can get by using the Apexi Neo-AFC since the civic is using stock injectors and pump?

The engine light still comes on under hard boost and I need to switch off the ignition and restart in order to reset it. Otherwise, the ECU will stay in limp mode after the light comes on.

Can someone please advise which method will fix this?

1. Use a check value
2. Purchase a 3 bar map sensor
3. Use Apexi Neo-AFC or other ECU

[Lukezen27]

What ECU do you recommend? Do you think I can get by using the Apexi Neo-AFC since the civic is using stock injectors and pump?

The engine light still comes on under hard boost and I need to switch off the ignition and restart in order to reset it. Otherwise, the ECU will stay in limp mode after the light comes on.

Can someone please advise which method will fix this?

1. Use a check value
2. Purchase a 3 bar map sensor
3. Use Apexi Neo-AFC or other ECU

1. Use a check value (foind out what the check light is) http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67113
2. Purchase a 3 bar map sensor (what would this help? are you running more than 11PSI?)
3. Use Apexi Neo-AFC or other ECU (Why both when you can get a aftermarket ECU for just a bit more)

[Aza]

when i first bought my civic it was previously turboed running on the factory ecu. it didnt last very long and defantly didnt perform, by the end it couldnt hold the boost without alot of jerking, warning lights, ect.... that setup also lead in blowing up the turbo and ****ing the engine. mind u on that set up there were a few other things that needed to be fixed. to fix the setup in that car i basictly ****ed off everything and started again.

my second setup i ran a hondata s100 and it made 108kw's on around 5 psi.... that was using an rb20 turbo.

if i were u i would do the ecu now before u do damage to ur parts

[RedVTi]

when i first bought my civic it was previously turboed running on the factory ecu. it didnt last very long and defantly didnt perform, by the end it couldnt hold the boost without alot of jerking, warning lights, ect.... that setup also lead in blowing up the turbo and ****ing the engine. mind u on that set up there were a few other things that needed to be fixed. to fix the setup in that car i basictly ****ed off everything and started again.

my second setup i ran a hondata s100 and it made 108kw's on around 5 psi.... that was using an rb20 turbo.

if i were u i would do the ecu now before u do damage to ur parts

Thanks

Did you have fun with the Civic? Or prefer your Evo

I don't know how close i am to having a functional turbo Civic? Any idea?

[Aza]

On a budget build u can never really know how reliable it will be. BUT the first step to making it reliable and drive how it should would be a safe tune.

and..... EVO!!!! Civic was fun cuase of torque steer and loosing traction but i still much prefer the evo

[RedVTi]

On a budget build u can never really know how reliable it will be. BUT the first step to making it reliable and drive how it should would be a safe tune.

and..... EVO!!!! Civic was fun cuase of torque steer and loosing traction but i still much prefer the evo

Cool. I like Evo, especially your version. Much lighter than later series.

On your civic, did you break anything else besides the engine. For example, did the driveshafts and gearbox hold up? How about the chasis front?

[Aza]

when i re did the engine i had to replace an engine mount and both cv's. but that was more fatigue in the car then anything to do with the engine. But as far as damaging goes. the turbo had completely seized from it which put oil all through the intercooler piped into the front mount, so i ditched that front mount. blow off valve was the same oil all through it. Also rendered the pod useless when the oil going into the turbo ****ed the seals and went all sprayed all over the intake. It was abit of a mess. Like i said thats why i re did it all